Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[DuMa]

there is a reputable tuner office in my area selling a used EForce kit (6k miles used) for $5k installed with tuned (no ecutek license). Im pretty new to shopping for SC kits but that deal kinda stood out to me. Thoughts?

[Side]

Originally Posted by DuMa

there is a reputable tuner office in my area selling a used EForce kit (6k miles used) for $5k installed with tuned (no ecutek license). Im pretty new to shopping for SC kits but that deal kinda stood out to me. Thoughts?

I got the same offer from that tuner, so at least they're consistent.

It's a good deal, I emailed them for a full quote on installing/tuning a new one. You're basically getting the supercharger for $2900.

[Glitch]

Got my kit in and the CARB tune file from Edelbrock ready to go.
Looking to install it this weekend.

Question:
I have an UEL header on the car. I know that the tune from Edelbrock is for stock motors, but can i use the tune with the UEL until I can get a better custom tune?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Glitch

Got my kit in and the CARB tune file from Edelbrock ready to go.
Looking to install it this weekend.

Question:
I have an UEL header on the car. I know that the tune from Edelbrock is for stock motors, but can i use the tune with the UEL until I can get a better custom tune?

I wouldn't recommend it for anything beyond moving the car around a parking lot.

Can you? yes. Should you? Absolutely not.

[shr133]

So today loss of part throttle power, get home and and data log and it's going crazy lean at part throttle........ I'm running no vacuum lines... that only leaves the actuator, superchargers 6 months old... I figured it would have the new one Guess not...

[shr133]

May have a bad O2 sensor, but I do have the old Actuator and I just got it in december, grrrrrr.

[BR-ZED]

About to install this on an otherwise stock BRZ (cat back only)

Will be doing a custom tune by my tuner.

Do people in general recommend the DBOX? Does it always help or is it more advisable to do it if the car is driving rough at higher RPMs? Should it be done before the tune or can it be done after the tune? Looking for specific experiences.

Also, does the DBOX cause any emissions issues in terms of codes or the system not being ready?

[CSG Mike]

No need for the dbox with current tuning techniques.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

No need for the dbox with current tuning techniques.

Interesting. Specifically...?

[devtec]

I was having a few problems with the D-box.

Did toast’s mod of relocating the MAP sensor away from the intake runner in order to provide a smoother MAP signal. See post #3357.

I can confirm that this works beautifully—significantly smoother all around, *especially on throttle tip in* which had always previously been a problem on my car (hesitation, etc).

Car has never driven better.

Removed my D-box.

Many thanks to toast for this mod.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by devtec

I was having a few problems with the D-box.

Did toast’s mod of relocating the MAP sensor away from the intake runner in order to provide a smoother MAP signal. See post #3357.

I can confirm that this works beautifully—significantly smoother all around, *especially on throttle tip in* which had always previously been a problem on my car (hesitation, etc).

Car has never driven better.

Removed my D-box.

Many thanks to toast for this mod.

Thanks, though having not installed the kit that post left me scratching my head a little. It wasn't 100% clear what exactly to do. If my understanding is correct, the MAP was just relocated to another area that would theoretically be at the same pressure? Also it sounds like you all are using aftermarket MAP sensors since you are using the stock sensor to "plug" the original hole? Wonder if there is a solution if you only have the stock MAP sensor? Or, is there a new MAP included in the kit that allows the stock one to be used as a plug?

Also, if you have the new bypass valve (kit 15001) how does it affect @toast and his solution, since it sounds like he modified where the old bypass valve was connected? I'm crossing my fingers that my kit comes with the new bypass valve so I don't have to worry about that..

Also does your solution also require welding? Because I don't have a welder or know how to weld.

[tomm.brz]

You can tune maf only using leaving stock map , and you don't really care of its bad signal on boost
or you can use aftermarket map sensor with modded position to use speed density
but honestly unless you re maxing out maf sensor, maf-based is good enough for supercharger

[toast]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Thanks, though having not installed the kit that post left me scratching my head a little. It wasn't 100% clear what exactly to do. If my understanding is correct, the MAP was just relocated to another area that would theoretically be at the same pressure? Also it sounds like you all are using aftermarket MAP sensors since you are using the stock sensor to "plug" the original hole? Wonder if there is a solution if you only have the stock MAP sensor? Or, is there a new MAP included in the kit that allows the stock one to be used as a plug?

Also, if you have the new bypass valve (kit 15001) how does it affect @toast and his solution, since it sounds like he modified where the old bypass valve was connected? I'm crossing my fingers that my kit comes with the new bypass valve so I don't have to worry about that..

Also does your solution also require welding? Because I don't have a welder or know how to weld.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...postcount=3357

You need to be able to weld or have someone make you an aluminum box with a vacuum nipple attached. Buy a second map sensor (they're like $20 for a plain one) put that in the manifold where the tmap sensor is and mount the tmap in the box. Connect box to the SC manifold in the back (either T the vacuum port that goes to the bypass valve or change the source of the bypass valve to the brake booster line and just run the manifold nipple right to the aluminum box). More involved but even better is to get a second tmap sensor, split the wiring harness so that the temperature comes from the sensor in the manifold and the pressure comes from the box.

The point is to get the pressure reading out of the intake runner - since it is a pipe with moving air and a periodic plug on one end (the intake valves) a resonance condition gets set up in the runner above 4k rpm. The tmap sees this and the ECU tries to adjust fueling *for all four cylinders* based on this. That wobble in pressure might be real for that cylinder but 1) the fueling response will have a phase delay and 2) the phase of the resonance in all the other cylinders will surely be wrong.

I can say this mod make the car feel a LOT better and when I shared this with Zach he sent me a new tune to take advantage of it and it then got even smoother.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by toast

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...postcount=3357

You need to be able to weld or have someone make you an aluminum box with a vacuum nipple attached. Buy a second map sensor (they're like $20 for a plain one) put that in the manifold where the tmap sensor is and mount the tmap in the box. Connect box to the SC manifold in the back (either T the vacuum port that goes to the bypass valve or change the source of the bypass valve to the brake booster line and just run the manifold nipple right to the aluminum box). More involved but even better is to get a second tmap sensor, split the wiring harness so that the temperature comes from the sensor in the manifold and the pressure comes from the box.

The point is to get the pressure reading out of the intake runner - since it is a pipe with moving air and a periodic plug on one end (the intake valves) a resonance condition gets set up in the runner above 4k rpm. The tmap sees this and the ECU tries to adjust fueling *for all four cylinders* based on this. That wobble in pressure might be real for that cylinder but 1) the fueling response will have a phase delay and 2) the phase of the resonance in all the other cylinders will surely be wrong.

I can say this mod make the car feel a LOT better and when I shared this with Zach he sent me a new tune to take advantage of it and it then got even smoother.

I am definitely interested in getting this to work eventually. But I think the first step will be to install my kit in the "default" config. Then, I hope to see if I can find a diagram to better understand everything you are saying. It makes sense, from what you said. but a picture / diagram would probably really help to see how everything is hooked up, being as how I haven't installed or even looked at the physical parts yet.

In preparation for the install, had a few questions:
1. Can I run till my next oil change interval with my existing 0w20 synthetic oil or should I upgrade, and what weight is recommended for this kit? The only other power mod I have is a catback.
2. Does Edelbrock ship (with the kit) the tool used to disconnect the fuel lines, or do I need to go find one of those tools? If so, any recommendations?
3. Are there any other odd/non-standard tools needed for install that I should look into acquiring ahead of time?

I'm definitely nervous to do the install myself, but that is one of the reasons why I am doing it myself - I want to get more experience, build my confidence, and learn. I've done almost all the work to my cars in the past - but mostly suspension (sway bars, coilovers, control arms, strut bars etc) and exhaust (downpipe/catback on my old WRX, and catback on the BRZ). Never something as elaborate as this. Am hoping it goes smoothly...

I want to thank you all in advance because I am sure I'll be asking a lot of questions...