Suspension advice before I spend my money

[blakkoutdarko]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

no should not.

Even with a 9” width wheel? Bare with me because somewhere along my ideas for this build I noted somewhere that I’d need extended studs/open ended lugs but that was when I wanted to run 18x9.5 255/35

[blakkoutdarko]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Presumably you mean 245/40-17 tire size, yes?

That wheel size/offset will work fine with lowering springs. FWIW I've run 245/40-17 on 17x9 +35 and 17x9 +37 wheels, and also 235/40-17 on 17x9 +40 wheels, with ~1.25" lower Swift lowering springs and Bilstein B8s (B6s would be fine as well). Works great on street and at the track.

YOu don't need wheel spacers and you don't need rear lower control arms. You will want to get an alignment after lowering the car of course. You will probably also want to get some front front camber. I'm running Raceseng cascam plates. You might get by with offset upper front strut mounts (Pedders?).

Regarding spring rates, stock are in the neighborhood of 3kg/mm. Swift Sport and RCE Yellow springs are quite a bit stiffer, but nowhere near 8kg/mm. Either will work great with Bilstein B6 and give a firmer ride but nicer ride quality (less harsh) than stock.

The reason spacers, extended studs/open ended lugs came into question was because I want a perfectly flush fitment with the fenders.

[blakkoutdarko]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

As others mentioned those spring rates are way to stiff. Honestly if your dead set on coils look at RCE's SS1s. I run these on my car. Soft for street and stiff for track and can handle 200tw tires np. Low+ those stiff springs are just asking for a terrible ride much worse than stock.

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Took your advice and about to purchase them, thanks!

[blakkoutdarko]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

no should not.

also do you think buying oem rear shock mounts be worth it when buying the RCE ss1? Racecomp is charging an extra $200 for them and I plan installing the coils myself. Spoke to a mechanic and informed him I’ll be installing them solo and advised I should but I’m not sure what would make the difference if I purchased w/o the shock mounts.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by blakkoutdarko

also do you think buying oem rear shock mounts be worth it when buying the RCE ss1? Racecomp is charging an extra $200 for them and I plan installing the coils myself. Spoke to a mechanic and informed him I’ll be installing them solo and advised I should but I’m not sure what would make the difference if I purchased w/o the shock mounts.

I thought about rear shock mounts for my car, but just kept it stock and it's mostly fine. I'm lowered about 36mm and I only notice the lack of rear bump travel if I hit a pretty big bump, but the bump stops take care of it well enough for me. That's with both the stock Sachs rear shocks and with the Bilsteins. IMO the much bigger worry is front bump travel, stock was not *nearly* enough for that kind of lowering, but the Bilsteins are.

You might talk to someone at RCE and see how strongly they recommend the rear mounts, but IMO if their shocks have as much bump travel as stock, you should be OK with the stock mounts.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blakkoutdarko

Yeah I’ve came to the conclusion that I’m gonna buy RCE SS1s with the rear shock mounts. Would I need extended studs/open ended lugs?

No. You only need those if you are running spacers.

[blakkoutdarko]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

No. You only need those if you are running spacers.

I know I was asking a sub question to my initial question haha I know dropping the car gives it a slight camber but I need someone who’s running same specs or at least close to mine to give me the exact spacer size they’re using for a flush look

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blakkoutdarko

I know I was asking a sub question to my initial question haha I know dropping the car gives it a slight camber but I need someone who’s running same specs or at least close to mine to give me the exact spacer size they’re using for a flush look

I have those exact wheels for my backup set. They are pretty close to flush. You will want to run about -2 camber in the front. Going with minimal drop on the SS1’s will be around an inch lower then stock. That will put the rears at around -2.2 to -2.5 which would be okay. I’d say around -2 front and rear would be decent for street driving. If you want to dial in rear camber you will need a set of LCA’s. SPC makes an affordable set.

This is a bit lower and more front camber then you would want to run on the street.

[blakkoutdarko]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I have those exact wheels for my backup set. They are pretty close to flush. You will want to run about -2 camber in the front. Going with minimal drop on the SS1’s will be around an inch lower then stock. That will put the rears at around -2.2 to -2.5 which would be okay. I’d say around -2 front and rear would be decent for street driving. If you want to dial in rear camber you will need a set of LCA’s. SPC makes an affordable set.

This is a bit lower and more front camber then you would want to run on the street.

What tire size are you running? And are LCA’s a MUST or can I still get away with spacers, I do plan on buying LCAs down the road just not right away.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by blakkoutdarko

What tire size are you running? And are LCA’s a MUST or can I still get away with spacers, I do plan on buying LCAs down the road just not right away.

You don't need LCAs. IMO they are way overprescribed...
I'm about 35mm lower than stock with -3.2 front -2.7 rear camber (stock LCAs), zero toe all around. I see remarkably little camber wear on my winter tires. I just replaced two of them and the inside tread was only maybe 2/32 more worn down than the outer tread.

Spacers is a different subject, but you don't need them either!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by blakkoutdarko

What tire size are you running? And are LCA’s a MUST or can I still get away with spacers, I do plan on buying LCAs down the road just not right away.

Those are 235/45/17.

LCA's and spacers do different things. LCA's are not a must as stated above. You can street drive at the rear camber that you will end up with without issue.

[blakkoutdarko]

Originally Posted by ZDan

You don't need LCAs. IMO they are way overprescribed...
I'm about 35mm lower than stock with -3.2 front -2.7 rear camber (stock LCAs), zero toe all around. I see remarkably little camber wear on my winter tires. I just replaced two of them and the inside tread was only maybe 2/32 more worn down than the outer tread.

Spacers is a different subject, but you don't need them either!

This kept me peace at mind and my wallet fatter thanks for letting me know that those aren’t necessarily needed for the look I’m going for

[*Axel]

This is a good thread!

Originally Posted by ZDan

You don't need LCAs. IMO they are way overprescribed...
I'm about 35mm lower than stock with -3.2 front -2.7 rear camber (stock LCAs), zero toe all around.

No LCAs. Great to hear! I'll keep those #s in mind too, added them to my notes.

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Those are 235/45/17.

I've settled on that tire size too. I'm partial to 17s and feel 235s are the perfect width for our twins.

Thanks for all the great advice!