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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 11-23-2021, 02:23 AM   #5755
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Thanks for all the info man. If I go the route of rebuilding this engine to OEM spec, and put the kit the back on...Do I risk blowing the engine out again ? I really thought I was going for the safest route running a JRSC with pump gas. Can someone from CSG comment on this ? I'm kinda dead in the water here , and I bet others would benefit from this info as well.
Get a good known running stock engine.
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Old 11-23-2021, 04:28 AM   #5756
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shit happens, and i m sure Zach left the closed loop fuel control active all range and started with no crazy timing... was just bad luck
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Old 11-23-2021, 08:30 AM   #5757
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First iteration for a Remote E-Tune is usually just you sitting in warm idle and logging or at most a 3K cruise light throttle. Doing a pull on first iteration is pretty rare. Can you clarify what you meant by "exploration"? usually you should stay at closed loop which is about 20-30% throttle until tuner says everything checked out and is safe.

By the sound of your engine it sounds more like spun bearing/rod knock which is more of an oil starvation issue that all FA20s have an issue with. Did you have an oil pressure gauge?
Yeah so I was going of Base map and iteration 1. So yeah did the base map after install exactly like you mentioned. Did the first pulls on the map after. And started hearing a slight rattle not long after. So yeah I guess i lost pressure. Just dont know why. Although mine had 100k miles on it, It never had any issues before.

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Old 11-23-2021, 08:30 AM   #5758
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Get a good known running stock engine.
The whole long block ?

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Old 11-23-2021, 01:07 PM   #5759
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Yeah so I was going of Base map and iteration 1. So yeah did the base map after install exactly like you mentioned. Did the first pulls on the map after. And started hearing a slight rattle not long after. So yeah I guess i lost pressure. Just dont know why. Although mine had 100k miles on it, It never had any issues before.
Spun rod bearing/Rod knock is like that, everything fine and then suddenly rod knock. But that kind of damage happens over time vs grenading the block and throwing a rod or rocker which happens instantly. So unfortunate, feel for you man just getting the kit and installed and it gave out. build back better!
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Old 11-27-2021, 02:42 AM   #5760
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The tuning was going great.. Until I had mechanical issues with the engine. So I would still recommend them.
What was the root cause of the engine failure?
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Old 11-27-2021, 09:44 AM   #5761
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Has anyone here added a oil temp sensor to the rotrex oil system? If so where did you put the sensor? Thinking about drilling a hole in the bottom of the reservoir and tapping it for a sensor with a gauge in the cabin.

Also if anyone is on the fence about the kswap you can run the jrsc kit on the k24 with about 800$ with of parts pretty easily.
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I swear I will punch your car if you put these on. Right in the face.
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Old 12-18-2021, 09:07 PM   #5762
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Thinking about installing this myself over the summer. Can anyone with experience tell me whats the difficulty on this install?

For reference, I've installed a header, front pipe, catback exhaust, and coilovers before. As for electronics, I've installed a headunit and a backup camera before.
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Old 12-19-2021, 12:39 PM   #5763
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Thinking about installing this myself over the summer. Can anyone with experience tell me whats the difficulty on this install?

For reference, I've installed a header, front pipe, catback exhaust, and coilovers before. As for electronics, I've installed a headunit and a backup camera before.
I was pretty impressed with the kit, it has been refined over the years and contains everything you need (minus tools). If you're installing the oil cooler (JROC SC compatible version) at the same time (recommended) then you want to switch over to follow those instructions at the same time as it changes a few of the intercooler mounting instructions from the SC install.

The instructions are concise, and in hindsight say exactly what needs to be said. I would personally prefer more photos and a more verbose approach with additional tips that you would otherwise figure out on your own. Unfortunately too much information leaves more to be skipped or ignored so I understand why its trimmed to what it is. In hindsight, the instructions are solid, just read them very closely and comprehensively.

If you're comfortable working on/around the engine, its not bad at all. Download the manual from JR first and familiarize yourself with it to see if there's anything that feels out of your league. Make sure you have all the tools required, the oil cooler requires 27mm and 29mm sockets and wrenches which are oddballs for some. The "Special Tools Recommended" list is very, very handy to have on hand. (also Knipex pliers for general garage stuff, they're a little expensive but awesome and worth it, I used them many times during this install. I have a 6" and 12", Amazon has them).

You can never have enough zip ties. 4", 8", 12"... The kit includes a bunch, but then again I have a fetish for these little things... Extra body and bumper clips (various sized little round pop-button clips) are always handy, local Subaru dealer parts can get what you need.

Rerouting the valve cover vent line and the MAF wiring harness on the top of the engine is tight, so expect that to be awkward.

I used some clear silicone on the washer bottle fitments to ensure it doesn't leak.

Intercooler pipe fitment is pretty tight, they need to fit deep into the couplers and they damn near touch something on all sides as the route around the left and right sides of the bumper/headlight area. Keep the MAF piping section as low as reasonably possible and rotate MAF sensor tube forward a bit to follow the hood contour so it doesn't chew into your hood liner.

The IC couplers use typical screw-drive band clamps. Use a 7mm socket on low torque setting on a power drill if you want to drive them down faster. If you happen to "strip" one, its just the little housing deforming. I used 6" Knipex pliers to squeeze the housing a tad (don't crush it, the band still needs to fit in there) and tighten the crimp on the side just a tiny bit, viola, like new again.

On the supercharger itself, its easy to glaze over the diagram in the instructions and hook up the in/out oil lines backwards. All of the instructional photos are shown from the front looking aft as if you're standing in front of the car, however this CAD diagram is aft looking forward. The instructions call out 'in' and 'out', however it's not identified in a photo. I didn't see the thin "IN" and "OUT" engraving on the unit so looking at the diagram, assuming it was the same perspective, my lines went on backward, and resulted in an expensive test drive as I proceeded to sieze it into a $2300 paperweight. One panic attack, tow strap, and a phone call later, I had another unit on the way from JR. Don't do what I did.

I installed the oil cooler at the same time, and getting all the cooling lines
and IC piping through the driver side bumper/radiator area is tricky, but just take your time and you'll find a way to route things so they remain relaxed.

If you have the ability to take your time, do it and don't rush anything. If it takes you two weekends, just enjoy the bonding experience you and your car will share!

After install, be very cognizant of warmup when driving. If you're going with CSG's tuning, Zach's tune will warn you that you're driving too aggressively when the engine isn't ready (CEL or power cut). Keep the rpm moderate with mild throttle until temps are up, then have your fun. Zach is awesome, btw.
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