CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by N_Raged

What about the 21mm from Pedders or the 22mm from Perrin? Whiteline has the only 20mm bar and it's discontinued.

I think more of the serious autocrossers are using 22mm bars anyway. The 20 is more fun IMO, but the 22mm might just be a little quicker around a course.

- Andrew

[Compelica]

Hey @CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

My shocks are due soon for a rebuild. Currently I have two options:

1. Send shocks back to the authorized distributor for rebuilding.
2. Send shocks instead to a specialist with extensive experience on rebuilding.

Since you guys sell shocks and I probably could guess the answer from you guys, but I was hoping for an honest opinion - what could be different between the options? I'm not intending to change any of the characteristics of the shock, but I'm aware that there are aspects of the rebuild which could possibly change the shock (eg. gas pressure, oil viscosity, shim stack arrangement). Is there anything else during the rebuilding process?

The reason I'm asking - the authorized distributor is far away from where I live and charges a morbid amount, whereas the specialist who has rebuilt many shocks for racing teams can do it for half the price and lives 10 minutes away from me.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Compelica

Hey @CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering



My shocks are due soon for a rebuild. Currently I have two options:



1. Send shocks back to the authorized distributor for rebuilding.

2. Send shocks instead of a specialist with extensive experience on rebuilding.



Since you guys sell shocks and I probably could guess the answer from you guys, but I was hoping for an honest opinion - what could be different between the options? I'm not intending to change any of the characteristics of the shock, but I'm aware that there are aspects of the rebuild which could possibly change the shock (eg. gas pressure, oil viscosity, shim stack arrangement). Is there anything else during the rebuilding process?



The reason I'm asking - the authorized distributor is far away from where I live and charges a morbid amount, whereas the specialist who has rebuilt many shocks for racing teams can do it for half the price and lives 10 minutes away from me.

Even if the the manufacturer was 10 minutes down the road as well I think I'd prefer a smaller shop. Smaller shops are generally more approachable and give better service. If they're just doing a one for one replacement of the shim stack, and they can source the parts reasonably, I'd much prefer the local shop.

Just my $0.02

[Calum]

Originally Posted by N_Raged

I'm not allowed to add camber-adjustable rear control arms so that's out of the question.

Think they'd notice if you used a camber bolt in the inboard hole of the factory rear lower control arms? I've been running like that for a while now and haven't seen any ill effects.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Compelica

Hey @CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

My shocks are due soon for a rebuild. Currently I have two options:

1. Send shocks back to the authorized distributor for rebuilding.
2. Send shocks instead of a specialist with extensive experience on rebuilding.

Since you guys sell shocks and I probably could guess the answer from you guys, but I was hoping for an honest opinion - what could be different between the options? I'm not intending to change any of the characteristics of the shock, but I'm aware that there are aspects of the rebuild which could possibly change the shock (eg. gas pressure, oil viscosity, shim stack arrangement). Is there anything else during the rebuilding process?

The reason I'm asking - the authorized distributor is far away from where I live and charges a morbid amount, whereas the specialist who has rebuilt many shocks for racing teams can do it for half the price and lives 10 minutes away from me.

If #2 is qualified, I'd go #2. It really depends on whether they're specifically experienced with your brand of damper and use case.

If you're literally just servicing the damper, either can do the job. It's figuratively, an oil change for your dampers.

[Compelica]

Originally Posted by Calum

Even if the the manufacturer was 10 minutes down the road as well I think I'd prefer a smaller shop. Smaller shops are generally more approachable and give better service. If they're just doing a one for one replacement of the shim stack, and they can source the parts reasonably, I'd much prefer the local shop.

Just my $0.02

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

If #2 is qualified, I'd go #2. It really depends on whether they're specifically experienced with your brand of damper and use case.

If you're literally just servicing the damper, either can do the job. It's figuratively, an oil change for your dampers.

Thanks for the inputs. I wasn't sure if there were differences, given the 2x price asked by the distributor. Also I was concerned if #2 would unintentionally screw something up and have all 4 shocks with absolutely different damping behaviors which technically had money thrown without solving the issue in the first place, which is to get those shocks as they were the first day out of the factory.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Compelica

Hey @CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering

My shocks are due soon for a rebuild. Currently I have two options:

1. Send shocks back to the authorized distributor for rebuilding.
2. Send shocks instead to a specialist with extensive experience on rebuilding.

Since you guys sell shocks and I probably could guess the answer from you guys, but I was hoping for an honest opinion - what could be different between the options? I'm not intending to change any of the characteristics of the shock, but I'm aware that there are aspects of the rebuild which could possibly change the shock (eg. gas pressure, oil viscosity, shim stack arrangement). Is there anything else during the rebuilding process?

The reason I'm asking - the authorized distributor is far away from where I live and charges a morbid amount, whereas the specialist who has rebuilt many shocks for racing teams can do it for half the price and lives 10 minutes away from me.

Yeah in your case with your location, if it's just a simple rebuild and the local place has the ability, it's pretty straightforward for them. They shouldn't need to change shim stack arrangement and if they are familiar with the shock they can get the right parts and fluid to return to factory fresh.

- Andrew

[N_Raged]

Originally Posted by Calum

Think they'd notice if you used a camber bolt in the inboard hole of the factory rear lower control arms? I've been running like that for a while now and haven't seen any ill effects.

Which bolt exactly? Ethics aside, I don't think you can just take any bolt with an eccentric shaft that's meant for struts and use it as a pivot bolt on a control arm.

Control arm camber adjustment is done with bolts that have eccentric washers, and those only work if the control arms have the ridges that center the washer while the shaft moves. That's why SPC sells a whole control arm replacement.

[Calum]

See the bushing with the off center hole in your picture? The camber bolt simulates that. Instead of a bushing with an off center hole you use a bolt that centers the control arm off center to the hole.

[perryair]

is there a consensus yet on whether existing springs/shocks/coilovers for gen 1 will work on the new gen gr86/ brz?

[nova.86]

I got Tein Mono Sports coilovers, once I find a good shop that can install them and do corner balancing followed by an alignment, is there a specific set-up I should ask for ? I am looking for a street focused set-up with spirited driving and minimal track sessions a year. I've heard I should have more of a drop in the front, and as well as from others to have more of a drop in the rear, and some that say equal drop on front and rear. I'm a noob in customizable coils and am just wondering what's a good set-up to ask for for what I'm looking for. Thanks in advanced.

[Cephas]

Hey I got a question for @Racecomp_Engineering. I have the RCE Yellows/B6 kit, and like it quite a lot. A couple weeks ago, I randomly had a couple hundred pounds of stuff in the trunk, and was surprised at how much more settled and smooth the car felt.

That got me thinking. In a car with a pretty significant front weight bias, why the square spring setup? The rear of this car has always been a little nervous/flighty (especially over our junk pavement around here). Seems like it'd make sense to make the rear more compliant, but I'm not a suspension engineer.

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by Cephas

Hey I got a question for @Racecomp_Engineering. I have the RCE Yellows/B6 kit, and like it quite a lot. A couple weeks ago, I randomly had a couple hundred pounds of stuff in the trunk, and was surprised at how much more settled and smooth the car felt.

That got me thinking. In a car with a pretty significant front weight bias, why the square spring setup? The rear of this car has always been a little nervous/flighty (especially over our junk pavement around here). Seems like it'd make sense to make the rear more compliant, but I'm not a suspension engineer.

Key reason is motion ratio. The springs in the rear have a lot less leverage over the wheel than they do over the front. This mean that while the spring rates are square, wheel rates are not (more in the front, less in the rear)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[timurrrr]

Originally Posted by nova.86

I got Tein Mono Sports coilovers, once I find a good shop that can install them and do corner balancing followed by an alignment, is there a specific set-up I should ask for ? I am looking for a street focused set-up with spirited driving and minimal track sessions a year. I've heard I should have more of a drop in the front, and as well as from others to have more of a drop in the rear, and some that say equal drop on front and rear. I'm a noob in customizable coils and am just wondering what's a good set-up to ask for for what I'm looking for. Thanks in advanced.

If you can find the original TEIN manual, a good starting point would be the recommended settings.
After you drive the car for a few months and decide what exactly you need to change from the recommended settings, you should be able to ask a more specific question.