Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

I'm also in for oil recommendations for the supercharged engines - have some outstanding credit on a website and they sell the Motul oils for engine and diff and whatnot, might use up a chunk of that credit and get some

5W30 300V

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by MaxTurbo

Interesting, can you explain why some boosted 86's are very picky in low RPM + boost?... I'm going through remote log revisions due to low RPM, high gear IAM drop when I hit boost (pressure over ambient). Pretty much highway passing and such. I experienced it very badly with the Edelbrock ROM and the initial ROM's from Delicious. I thought it was a mechanical issue. After a few revisions we have almost eliminated it. In the process I have removed some of the mechanical variables: Replaced plugs, checked coils, cleaned/checked/new seals for the DI injectors and checked compression. The engine has 40K miles and aside from that IAM drop/knock at low RPM the car runs beautifully.

Precisely what you experienced: The tune. LSPI isn't an issue with a good tune.

[Silverfox]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

I'm also in for oil recommendations for the supercharged engines - have some outstanding credit on a website and they sell the Motul oils for engine and diff and whatnot, might use up a chunk of that credit and get some

After digging around on the internet last night, I decided to go with Motul 8100 ECO-lite 0w-20. I have no reason to distrust Mike, and I'm sure what he is saying is accurate, but for peace of mind, I'm going to run this SN Plus rated/certified oil.

edit: this is also taking into account that my car is a DD 95% of the time. From what I gathered, 300V is the best for spirited/track driven vehicles, but fine for DD as well. Take this all with a grain of salt as my oil knowledge is based on reading and re-reading a couple years worth of forum posts to attempt to get up to speed on LSPI, SN, SN Plus. To say there is conflicting statements and findings would be an understatement.

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by apatel471

I'm looking to buy an Edelbrock kit but was wondering if any of the owners have done an e-tune with Openflash through an OFT? I know ECUTEK is better for this application, but I just don't know if I want to be locked in with ECUTEK especially with its relatively steep entry cost(Cable + License cost).

Btw I created a post asking the same thing in the software tuning section but I'm asking the same thing here just cause this is a little more specific and could probably get a faster response.

Thanks

Originally Posted by AKITA

Nobody will likely recommend this with some limitations that exist with OFT in this application (tuners can't protect their intellectual property). You pay $500 plus you will pay OFT another $300 to write /make another applicable tune (this is if you can get them to respond, I've never heard from them about a request I made regarding a popular FI solution OFT is used for, never heard from them) and I don't think it will be anywhere near what you can get with Ecutek. So total for tuning (which outside of solid install and sound working machine) is very important, from Ecutek 1500-1800 compared to OFT at around 800 call it an extra 1000, while you have thousands invested in the hardware installing... most will tell you OFT is not a smart route unless you know enough to do it yourself. (not even sure it would be the smartest then, most economical maybe)

AKITA is correct. The OFT is more for NA application and to get something for your car with all the mods and SC will be nightmarish. They have horrific response times (if they even respond at all, I'm still waiting on a question I asked over 3 weeks ago).

For NA and just an exhaust as a mod - OFT is fantastic. I loved it, was fairly easy once I got the hang of it and there are a decent amount of things you can do but it becomes very complicated quickly the more you try to do, or the more mods you add (intake, pulleys, etc..)

I would highly recommend going with what's known and good, especially for the SC. Delicious tune w/ EcuTek from everything I have heard and read and what I will be doing myself.

*shamless plug, I am actually selling an OFT tablet too*

[apatel471]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

AKITA is correct. The OFT is more for NA application and to get something for your car with all the mods and SC will be nightmarish. They have horrific response times (if they even respond at all, I'm still waiting on a question I asked over 3 weeks ago).

For NA and just an exhaust as a mod - OFT is fantastic. I loved it, was fairly easy once I got the hang of it and there are a decent amount of things you can do but it becomes very complicated quickly the more you try to do, or the more mods you add (intake, pulleys, etc..)

I would highly recommend going with what's known and good, especially for the SC. Delicious tune w/ EcuTek from everything I have heard and read and what I will be doing myself.

*shamless plug, I am actually selling an OFT tablet too*

Thanks for the input, I already have an OFT but ECUTEK is definitely better suited for this application so I’ll be going with the ECUTEK route.

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by Silverfox

After digging around on the internet last night, I decided to go with Motul 8100 ECO-lite 0w-20. I have no reason to distrust Mike, and I'm sure what he is saying is accurate, but for peace of mind, I'm going to run this SN Plus rated/certified oil.

edit: this is also taking into account that my car is a DD 95% of the time. From what I gathered, 300V is the best for spirited/track driven vehicles, but fine for DD as well. Take this all with a grain of salt as my oil knowledge is based on reading and re-reading a couple years worth of forum posts to attempt to get up to speed on LSPI, SN, SN Plus. To say there is conflicting statements and findings would be an understatement.

My car will be the same - 90% DD and 10% spirited weekend driving with friends. Basically zero track.

Thanks for your input! I think I might go the Motul route as well.

But one thing is tripping me up - do we really go 0w-20 ? I would imagine 5w-30 at the least? It sounds like I got some oil researching to do, lol

[Silverfox]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

My car will be the same - 90% DD and 10% spirited weekend driving with friends. Basically zero track.

Thanks for your input! I think I might go the Motul route as well.

But one thing is tripping me up - do we really go 0w-20 ? I would imagine 5w-30 at the least? It sounds like I got some oil researching to do, lol

Here, I found conflicting opinions and findings. Overall, the recommendation, including from CSG in previous posts on this thread, is either 0w-20 or 5w-30 is acceptable. Some will claim to run 5w-30 all the time, others run 0w-20 and then swap to 5w-30 for track use, and others use 0w-20 for DD and track. And that is before we even get into brand-specific tech, etc. I decided to go with the Motul 8100 ECO-lite 0w-20 because it explicitly states that it is SN Plus rather than just SN rated, and it clearly states it is good for use with E-85, which I use regularly. The clear marketing, along with Motul's track record (no pun intended), is reassuring to me. If you find anything additional please share.

Side Note: I am also running a JR Dual Radiator / Oil Cooler, which factors into my choice.

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by Silverfox

Here, I found conflicting opinions and findings. Overall, the recommendation, including from CSG in previous posts on this thread, is either 0w-20 or 5w-30 is acceptable. Some will claim to run 5w-30 all the time, others run 0w-20 and then swap to 5w-30 for track use, and others use 0w-20 for DD and track. And that is before we even get into brand-specific tech, etc. I decided to go with the Motul 8100 ECO-lite 0w-20 because it explicitly states that it is SN Plus rather than just SN rated, and it clearly states it is good for use with E-85, which I use regularly. The clear marketing, along with Motul's track record (no pun intended), is reassuring to me. If you find anything additional please share.

I definitely will

I won't be running E85 (not that I imagine that would be a serious game changer) so I am going to spend the next two days really diving into this. Pick up the car Saturday, getting beyond excited at this point

[MaxTurbo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Precisely what you experienced: The tune. LSPI isn't an issue with a good tune.

Oh well. I already spent the money, so I'll see it through.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Silverfox

After digging around on the internet last night, I decided to go with Motul 8100 ECO-lite 0w-20. I have no reason to distrust Mike, and I'm sure what he is saying is accurate, but for peace of mind, I'm going to run this SN Plus rated/certified oil.

edit: this is also taking into account that my car is a DD 95% of the time. From what I gathered, 300V is the best for spirited/track driven vehicles, but fine for DD as well. Take this all with a grain of salt as my oil knowledge is based on reading and re-reading a couple years worth of forum posts to attempt to get up to speed on LSPI, SN, SN Plus. To say there is conflicting statements and findings would be an understatement.

FWIW, ALL of my cars are on 300V, whether daily driver or track car.

My Civic Si as 205k miles and it's still going strong. It regularly sees 8300rpm, even though it's just a commuter.

CSG also has 0W20 8100 in stock.

[Silverfox]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

FWIW, ALL of my cars are on 300V, whether daily driver or track car.

My Civic Si as 205k miles and it's still going strong. It regularly sees 8300rpm, even though it's just a commuter.

CSG also has 0W20 8100 in stock.

Thanks for the info Mike, your input on this thread has been more than valuable!

I had some free funds to use on Amazon (I know, I feel guilty about it), but I'll be sure to use you guys again next oil change. Finally figured out my account password on your website this afternoon, its been a while haha

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by Silverfox

Here, I found conflicting opinions and findings. Overall, the recommendation, including from CSG in previous posts on this thread, is either 0w-20 or 5w-30 is acceptable. Some will claim to run 5w-30 all the time, others run 0w-20 and then swap to 5w-30 for track use, and others use 0w-20 for DD and track. And that is before we even get into brand-specific tech, etc. I decided to go with the Motul 8100 ECO-lite 0w-20 because it explicitly states that it is SN Plus rather than just SN rated, and it clearly states it is good for use with E-85, which I use regularly. The clear marketing, along with Motul's track record (no pun intended), is reassuring to me. If you find anything additional please share.

Side Note: I am also running a JR Dual Radiator / Oil Cooler, which factors into my choice.

MY FINDINGS:

So I am going to be running the JR rad/cooler combo as well and just found a thread where someone has stated that running a 5w-30 is better for FI because it protects the internals better, plus holds up to higher temps. You lose a little fuel economy but in the long run it's the way to go. HKS Supercharger apparently calls for 5w-40 as he's run that through it too.

Where I am getting tripped up is that we are running the oil cooler combo, which means that our temps will stay lower already - and a lot of people say that for DD the 0w20 is the way to go, maybe even a 0w-30. BUT you have to assume MOST track cars are running some sort of oil cooler, and they still recommend the 5w-30. Which leads me to my conclusion that for a car that is going to be 90% DD and 10% spirited driving, with the JR combo there is no real reason to go to a 5w-30 when the 0w-20 should work out and get me my slightly better fuel economy as well for my 80 mile daily commute

Bottom line is that I think no matter if we run the 0w-20 or 5w-30 we will be fine, and out here in the PNW it doesn't really get stupid hot or stupid cold so me going with a 0w-20 will work fantastically.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

MY FINDINGS:

So I am going to be running the JR rad/cooler combo as well and just found a thread where someone has stated that running a 5w-30 is better for FI because it protects the internals better, plus holds up to higher temps. You lose a little fuel economy but in the long run it's the way to go. HKS Supercharger apparently calls for 5w-40 as he's run that through it too.

Where I am getting tripped up is that we are running the oil cooler combo, which means that our temps will stay lower already - and a lot of people say that for DD the 0w20 is the way to go, maybe even a 0w-30. BUT you have to assume MOST track cars are running some sort of oil cooler, and they still recommend the 5w-30. Which leads me to my conclusion that for a car that is going to be 90% DD and 10% spirited driving, with the JR combo there is no real reason to go to a 5w-30 when the 0w-20 should work out and get me my slightly better fuel economy as well for my 80 mile daily commute

Bottom line is that I think no matter if we run the 0w-20 or 5w-30 we will be fine, and out here in the PNW it doesn't really get stupid hot or stupid cold so me going with a 0w-20 will work fantastically.

You prep for the 10%, not the 90%.

The 90% likely wont cause the failure, but the 10% can.

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You prep for the 10%, not the 90%.

The 90% likely wont cause the failure, but the 10% can.

Absolutely agree with that statement - but even then the 0w-20 is still going to be just fine and will work flawlessly

What I will honestly end up doing is going 5w-30 in "winter" months and go back to 0w-20 in summer months as that seems to be extremely popular and work out well for everyone