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Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps.


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Old 04-09-2020, 07:13 PM   #15
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If you ask the seller for the VIN, you can easily identify it that way.
Yes that may be an option but the engines that I am finding are from wreckers / salvage places who have already pulled the engine from the car and they can probably give me a VIN that I will have no way of verifying if it really came form a certain vehicle. If it was a private seller then that would definitely work.
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Old 04-09-2020, 11:06 PM   #16
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Doesn't each engine have an ID plate on the front?
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Old 04-09-2020, 11:12 PM   #17
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Yes that may be an option but the engines that I am finding are from wreckers / salvage places who have already pulled the engine from the car and they can probably give me a VIN that I will have no way of verifying if it really came form a certain vehicle. If it was a private seller then that would definitely work.
The VIN is actually on the engine, its on a metal plaque on the passenger side of the motor
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Old 04-10-2020, 02:06 AM   #18
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The VIN is actually on the engine, its on a metal plaque on the passenger side of the motor
This is the information that I had asked and been looking for. Thanks Decimus!
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Old 04-10-2020, 02:23 AM   #19
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This is the information that I had asked and been looking for. Thanks Decimus!
No problem, i recently swapped a 16 BRZ motor into my 13 FRS too so if you have any questions ill try my best to help
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Old 04-10-2020, 02:29 PM   #20
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No problem, i recently swapped a 16 BRZ motor into my 13 FRS too so if you have any questions ill try my best to help
Will do Decimus!Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:02 PM   #21
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Is the $600 upcharge from a 2014 used engine to a 2015/2016 engine worth it to get the upgraded to the coilpacks and wiring harness? What was "upgraded" to said coilpacks and wiring harness anyways?
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Old 04-19-2020, 08:49 PM   #22
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Started draining the oil and coolant, removing bolts and nuts, and disconnecting wires and hoses. I couldn't remove the fuel lines as I was trying the DIY version I saw in some videos how it is done but couldn't take them off. Seems like I will have to buy the fuel disconnect tool.

My car is automatic and I would have to remove the torque converter bolts. The crank normally rotates clockwise, right? need to make sure of it as I would have to hold the crank in place when I loosen the bolts to the torque converter. I wouldn't want to rotate the crank the opposite direction since I think it would cause a problem.

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Old 04-20-2020, 07:36 PM   #23
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AST's Subaru fuel line disconnect tool #8028. Makes it super easy on this car, especially that line that has that hard 90 bend right before the fitting.
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Old 04-22-2020, 01:39 AM   #24
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Where do you connect attach the chain to hoist the engine? I know there is a hook at the rear but I am unsure where to attach at the front portion of the engine

For the headers, can I get away with just removing the bolts where it connects to the bottom of the engine? basically just leaving it connected to the overpipe?

Anyone know why for automatic vehicles the sway bar link needs to be removed (which i believe is just 1 out of 2 of the link ends)?
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Old 04-22-2020, 01:42 AM   #25
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AST's Subaru fuel line disconnect tool #8028. Makes it super easy on this car, especially that line that has that hard 90 bend right before the fitting.
Do you or anyone know who sells this? it would be better if it would be somewhere in Canada.

Last edited by knucklehead; 04-22-2020 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 04-22-2020, 09:26 AM   #26
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While we are on this topic, why not try and swap in a 2017+ engine with the red manifold? What does it take to get the newer engines running in a 1st gen car?
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Old 04-22-2020, 02:49 PM   #27
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Where do you connect attach the chain to hoist the engine? I know there is a hook at the rear but I am unsure where to attach at the front portion of the engine
Subaru special tool threads into the block right next to the A/C compressor. It's basically a big steel hook. It gives you the second lifting point for the hoist.

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For the headers, can I get away with just removing the bolts where it connects to the bottom of the engine? basically just leaving it connected to the overpipe?
Yes, just be sure to disconnect and remove the harnesses for the O2 & A/F

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Anyone know why for automatic vehicles the sway bar link needs to be removed (which i believe is just 1 out of 2 of the link ends)?
No idea why you would need to touch that at all.





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While we are on this topic, why not try and swap in a 2017+ engine with the red manifold? What does it take to get the newer engines running in a 1st gen car?
2013-2016 are direct, plug and play, swaps. 2017 and newer have differences that make the swap more difficult.
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Old 04-22-2020, 03:23 PM   #28
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2013-2016 are direct, plug and play, swaps. 2017 and newer have differences that make the swap more difficult.
It is still possible though, right? What else needs to swapped, the ECU?
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