12-30-2022, 04:07 PM | #29 |
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Transmission removal/installation process
So, I got the TOB done and transmission reinstalled. Some of this is definitely a 2-person job. Luckily, my parents were here for the holidays. (Thanks Dad!) Was actually pretty easy in hindsight, but I just didn't know what I was doing the first time around. This is my first time removing/installing a transmission so I wanted to do a quick writeup before I forgot most of this, in case I need to do it again lol.
I used the following pages as guides: Transmission removal/replacement guide: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140923 Official shop manual: (link in Ultramaroon's sig) Ultramaroon's ratchet strap support: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135100 General steps I followed with my notes and pics (pics to come): 1. Lift car to 15", remove wheels and battery for better access and safety. Drain transmission. 2. Unplug cables on top of the transmission. You can also unplug all the other cables in that harness and around the starter if you want a better access/view from above. I did, but I probably didn't have to. 3. Displace clutch slave cylinder and move it out of the way. 4. Remove top starter bolt. This might be able to be done from below, but I did it from on top. I also damaged both starter bolt heads and ordered new ones. I used a ratcheting hinged box wrench. Broke a clip off the manifold when it slipped off one time. 5. Support engine by ratchet strap. Doesn't need to be crushingly tight. See link above. Not all straps will work, I wound up buying some that worked once I realized this. (I'll come back and post min/max lengths when I find where I wrote them down). 6. Remove front pipe. PB Blaster/WD40 helped. A 6-point box wrench would have been nice to have though. The wrench still needed a couple whacks with a mallet. Nuts were a bit damaged when I got them off. 7. Remove driveshaft. I used the hand brake to hold the driveshaft still, releasing it to rotate to the other bolts at the back. Used a spare jack stand to hold the back end up while removing the carrier. 8. Jack car higher. (Would have been smart to do this before #6 and #7 huh?) I wound up with about 17" of clearance at this stage. More difficult to work on top, but plenty of room under the car to work. Transmission jacks have about 14" of motion and bottom out at 8". I was never going to be able to get the transmission out on the jack without jacking the front end up after the transmission was lowered as the bell housing is also about 14" tall, so I didn't try. 9. Disconnect transmission linkage. I managed to get the little boot off without tearing it by heating it with a hair dryer. I did rip it putting it back on though. 10. Disconnect transmission linkage bracket from transmission (clips and pins). This does get a bit in the way when removing/installing the transmission if you don't have the engine tilted enough. 11. Lift trans jack into relative place. Leave some room to drop the back end a bit. 12. Loosen the transmission mount and lower the transmission onto the trans jack. It might not tilt a lot by itself and you don't want the studs/bolts to bind, so if I were to do it again, I would use the ratchet strap to tip the engine back more once the mount is loose/off. While doing this, adjust the trans jack to the appropriate angle and height. Trans mount was removed completely along with exhaust hanger, but that might not be necessary if I wasn't replacing it. 13. Remove the transmission bolts. I needed to use a longer ratchet handle than normal. Once I figured this out, it wasn't all that hard to get the rest of the bolts and nuts. A second set of hands to hold the starter was great. 14. Remove transmission from engine. This was difficult in that we didn't have the engine held in a tilted position yet and I think parts were binding. We had one person wiggle the transmission while the other pulled, bracing a foot on the engine cross member. One thing to be careful of, future self, is the transmission slides pretty easily on the jack. Position the jack just a bit aft of COG (drain plug). Lowering was a game of centimeters in terms of clearance to the sway bar at the front and mount brackets at the back, but we got it out. Note, the trans jack is a bit too far forward in this picture. This is where the transmission slid to, with trans CG about 2/3 to 3/4 towards the back of the jack. Also, the green floor jack isn't actually doing anything here, my dad just didn't believe in the ratchet strap. ------------------------------------------------- 15. Remove old TOB and clean snout. Install TSK1 and supplied bearing. This will be the next post as it's a more interesting story than my transmission removal/install notes. 16. Grease all metal on metal sliding/contact points. I used the grease supplied with the TSK to grease: Fork pivot, Fork-bearing pivots, where the bearing clip contacts the fork, snout sleeve, the inner diameter of the bearing, and and extremely light coat on the input shaft. ------------------------------------------------ 17. Before lifting the transmission into place I forgot to put the linkage bracket pins back in. Don't be me... again. These pins may not be able to be inserted when the trans is in the tunnel! I greased these with some silicone-base grease I found in a box-o-stuff under my workbench. 18. Lift and reinstall transmission to engine. This was the most time consuming part. There are actually 7 degrees of freedom that have to align here. 3 of case position, 3 of case rotation, and 1 of aligning the input shaft and clutch splines. We couldn't figure out what we were doing wrong until we rotated the input shaft a degree or two and then it went right in. We did lose another clip off the air box in this endeavor. Should have loosened removed the (Perrin) intake tube. Would probably have been fine with the OEM one. 19. Torque trans bolts, loosen engine support strap, reinstall transmission mount (see separate trans mount post for STi goodness), reinstall bracket and linkage (easier with plenty of grease), heat rubber boot before reinstalling. 20. Replace all the stuff on top. Torque upper starter bolt (I don't have a torque wrench that fits in there, but I got it pretty close by feel I think. Grease the clutch fork divot before installing the slave cylinder. And that's where I am at now. Clutch action is super smooth so I guess I did at least some of it right. I left the front pipe and driveshaft off as I'm still doing more stuff, of course.
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12-30-2022, 04:36 PM | #30 |
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PDM TSK1, Verus fork and pivot.
The PDM TSK 1 is a stainless steel sleeve that slides over the transmission snout that the TOB slides on. It is theoretically a harder material than the snout itself, so it should not wear down and create channels over time. It comes with it's own bearing that fits over the sleeve. Soundman showed me this great thread, so I won't go into too much detail myself: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135955.
Only picture I have of mine installed because I forgot to take pictures... I also bought a Verus fork and pivot that there are a million reviews of. My story: So I got my transmission out, pulled out the bearing and fork, then went to mate up the new fork with the TSK1, and the clip on the TSK1 is incompatible with the Verus fork because it is solid, as opposed to the open OEM design. Note: the TOB clip in the image below needs to be on the other side of the little tab (at bottom of TOB) to be installed properly. Mine had gotten to the wrong side somehow and I didn't notice until after I took the pics. After a bit of research and some timely posts from other members, I came to the conclusion that the tsk1 with the OEM fork is the better/safer/more durable option if you have the OEM clutch, so I installed that because I did not change my clutch. If I were also installing an aftermarket clutch with more clamping force, I would have chosen to also install a new snout with the Verus fork and pivot. As for the pivots, I also reinstalled the OEM pivot. The Verus one had a slightly different shape (thicker shoulder on the ball) and did not want to discover any further issues after install. This could just be due to wear on the oem pivot. I'm holding on to the Verus pieces for now in case I decide to upgrade the clutch/flywheel in the future. If I were to go back and do this exact process over again, I'd order a new oem fork and pivot to use with the stock clutch.
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12-30-2022, 04:53 PM | #31 |
extra what?
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I don't remember the thread but I recently learned of a trick for that seventh degree. Nudge the crankshaft from the front to find the sweet spot. I think I would make sure the input shaft isn't wedged against the crank while turning/jiggling. Wouldn't help if they were both rotating.
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12-30-2022, 05:12 PM | #32 | |
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12-30-2022, 07:40 PM | #33 | |
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12-30-2022, 07:44 PM | #34 |
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STi transmission mount.
Replaced the transmission mount while I had the transmission off the car. Only interesting part of the install is breaking/torquing the nuts that hold it on the cross member. That all should be done while attached to the car, it's not fun to try to clamp it down.
As for the difference between mounts, I'll let the picture explain...
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12-30-2022, 08:11 PM | #35 |
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Nothing a little aggud aggu can't fix.
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12-30-2022, 09:02 PM | #36 |
extra what?
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I've wanted one just to plug the hole. That's a great idea.
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12-31-2022, 12:19 PM | #37 |
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Next step is spark plugs, engine mounts, and steering rack bushings (because I apparently need to move the steering rack to get the engine mounts out/in).
Debating the best way to lift the engine. There's the oil pan method, but I have a fumoto drain which makes distributing the weight more tricky I think. Plus the pan looks to be pretty thin. The other method would be lift each side by the header, which seems more stable and gives more clearance. I am leaning towards the header method. Yes, it is lifting the engine by the head, but it only needs to lift half the engine weight plus a third of the transmission weight. So like 220lb ish? That's what I weigh ( ) and I can't see sitting on any of these parts breaking anything, plus I am replacing the header anyway. Any second opinions/warnings/etc?
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12-31-2022, 05:47 PM | #38 |
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Update: Twisting one side of the engine upwards as far as it will go before hitting the chassis does not create enough space to remove the driver's side engine mount at least. It needs like another 5mm to clear the crossmember to pull it out the back, even with the steering rack loosened. So I'm going a different route. I'm going to try the oil pan method. I have a piece of 2x8 I was going to use for this (2x6 would be better but I don't have any) but the header was in the way. So I pulled that first. If they didn't want us to remove it why is it the easiest part to remove?
When you have a tool, you find new uses for it. Also, gross. And grosser. I guess I have another leak to attempt to plug...
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12-31-2022, 06:24 PM | #39 |
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That's a bitch. I think I lifted my engine a smidge with the cherry picker.
You'll eventually need one anyhow. $$
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12-31-2022, 07:29 PM | #40 | |
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I consider myself lucky it's a PITA to get the overpipe out to replace it...
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01-02-2023, 09:03 PM | #41 |
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Well, got the motor mounts done. Mildly terrifying sticking my hands under the engine only supported by a single floor jack. Don't feel like doing that too much.
Both original and STi mounts are stiff enough that I cannot actually tell the difference by feel. The rubber does have different markings. Also, oops.
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01-02-2023, 09:18 PM | #42 |
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I believe there is either more, or a different filler material in the plastic as well. I want to say it was 50%cf by weight. I can't remember, should be a marking on them. "PA6..."
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