Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[snowtaipan]

Check it out y'all! Anyone got any idea of the cause? The core is pushed in 3/8" but the tips aren't bent.

[B T]

@tomm.brz I'm not making them anymore, but CSG and Delicious made their own versions of my adapter now. I'm not sure if it's on their website, but you could probably call and order it.

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

Check it out y'all! Anyone got any idea of the cause? The core is pushed in 3/8" but the tips aren't bent.

Sounds like a quality control issue. What level of boost are you running (stock pulley or smaller)?
Last spring I had an electrode break off of a Denso while lapping. P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire resulted) with a long expensive tow home.
Zach has recommended switching to the HKS plugs at one heat range colder. They’ll go in for spring.

[B T]

Originally Posted by Muskoka800

Zach has recommended switching to the HKS plugs at one heat range colder.

Alternatively, the NGK version 1 range colder is NGK R2558A. That's what I run.
HKS would be HKS-50003-M50HL for one step colder for anyone too lazy to look it up.
Also, those are the coldest plugs from any manufacturer I could find, end of the line.

[snowtaipan]

Originally Posted by Muskoka800

Sounds like a quality control issue. What level of boost are you running (stock pulley or smaller)?
Last spring I had an electrode break off of a Denso while lapping. P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire resulted) with a long expensive tow home.
Zach has recommended switching to the HKS plugs at one heat range colder. They’ll go in for spring.

That's disappointing that denso could have a QAQC issue like that, but it is what it is.

I'm running a stock pulley and 93. And my tune is from Delicious with ECUTEK.

I think I'm gonna go to a colder plug. With the stock plugs bring >$30 any way, there's no reason not to. Though I think I'm gonna drop it on a dealership, I hate doing the plugs in this car!

[brandonblt2]

Originally Posted by Chamaco

Hi guys,

quick question... have any of you taken out the DI injectors for service with the SC still installed? I want to take mine out to send them to CSG for the cleaning service and looking around under the SC it appears to have plenty of space to take them out without the need of pulling the SC.

Thanks!

Not really possible. You have to remove some fuel lines and replace them when you change the injectors. You would spend far more time trying to do it with the SC installed than just removing it.

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by B T

Alternatively, the NGK version 1 range colder is NGK R2558A. That's what I run.

I suggested the colder NGK’s but he recommends the pricier HKS instead.
I’ve always been happy with NGK over many years in snowmobiles and auto’s.

[B T]

Originally Posted by Muskoka800

I suggested the colder NGK’s but he recommends the pricier HKS instead.

May have to give them a try, Zack has expressed a little concern over my spark in the past but never said anything about a specific brand plug.

[tomm.brz]

hks plugs ARE ngk
they cost few, and easy to find.. worth the buy either the 45 for NA or 50 for FI

[StevetS]

Originally Posted by devtec

Here is how I did the MAP sensor relocation away from the edelbrock intake runner. No welding.

First, I ordered this:
https://diftech.com/products/frs-brz...hoCBq8QAvD_BwE

It's intended to add a port to the intake manifold to attach something like a pressure/boost sensor by mounting to the existing intake port and just adding an extra nipple. It has two open ports, one to go into the existing manifold port, and the other to attach to an elbow which has another nipple on it.

In this case, however, we're just using the DIFTECH port as a way to mount the MAP sensor away from the intake manifold and just see the pressure inside the manifold from an attached hose.

Thanks to toast's idea, we can get that pressure from the nipple at the back of the supercharger. This port is what is used to control the bypass actuator we all know and hate. (Incidentally, I did install the updated bypass actuator, which is working well after a few thousand miles). To get pressure from this port you just need a vacuum T (1/4" x 1/4") to split the line. Supercharger port goes the the vacuum T, which then splits into a line leading to the bypass actuator as usual, and the other line which leads to the new DIFTECH port with the MAP sensor mounted to it. You don't really need a box like what toast made, just a simple line for the MAP sensor to see the pressure inside the supercharger.

Turns out this DIFTECH port is made for the stock MAP sensor. I had forgotten that the edelbrock kit comes with it's own MAP sensor, which has different dimensions and actually does not fit into the DIFTECH port. So in somewhat of a pain, I had to go to a machine shop to enlarge the port where the MAP sensor inserts, to a diameter of 12mm (please recheck this to be sure). The edelbrock MAP sensor also has a longer snout that the stock MAP, so the machine shop also fashioned a little spacer (you could also just use washers, same number around snout and mounting bolt for MAP sensor).

Use an old MAP sensor to plug the hole in the edelbrock manifold, or any other way you want of covering up this hole.

See pics. First shows the DIFTECH port and how the lines run. Second shows how the vacuum line comes off the T and leads to the bypass actuator. Third pic shows a rubber vacuum cap over the unused port on the DIFTECH.

You can get all these accessory parts (1/4" vacuum hose, vacuum cap, 1/4" vacuum T, and clamps) at O'Reillys. You can mount the setup with a ziptie however you want.

Hope this is clear.

I highly, highly recommend that all of you do something like this. The difference in driveability is significant. The smooth and controllable throttle tip in makes driving a pleasure when starting from a stop and shifting. Butt dyno says there's also a little more power. Overall with the delicious tune and this mod, the car is running like a champ, and way smoother than stock ever was. I did unhook the D-box, which was giving me problems and is probably no longer needed. Good luck!

I just did this today and immediately saw a difference. Just pulling out of my driveway to turn the car around the low end is totally different. There is no hesitation or pauses in the throttle now. It seemed like before the car would think for a split second after you pressed the pedal down. I haven't even driven the car on the streets yet and I'm already impressed.

Tuning will be better now too that the map is away from volatile air in the manifold.

Thanks for posting this! Helped me figure out exactly what I needed to do!

PS how do I thank you on the actual post? I see people "thanked" so and so for their posts but I'm not sure where to find that button.

[Muskoka800]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

hks plugs ARE ngk
they cost few, and easy to find.. worth the buy either the 45 for NA or 50 for FI

I wouldn’t be surprised. How many companies really product plugs?
So, I haven’t seen the NGK plug for our car but can say the the HKS has a single electrode (old style) while the Denso’s, as we’ve all seen, have the similar large Centre electrode and two shorter ones at each side. It was the large one that broke off in my #2 cylinder.

[Chamaco]

Originally Posted by B T

May have to give them a try, Zack has expressed a little concern over my spark in the past but never said anything about a specific brand plug.

I had a misfire recently in cyl4 and Zach recommended to go with HKS which I did just out of laziness and not go look for the NGK equivalent. I also changed all the coils. Car is back to awesome!

[Panstiks]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Have a question about the Edelbrock kit? Ask in this thread, and I'll answer it, as well as copy it into the OP.

Is the Edelbrock Supercharger kit CARB legal?

As long as the rest of your drivetrain is stock, and you use the Edelbrock supplied tune, it is expected to soon be CARB legal. CARB testing is currently ongoing.


I already have EcuTek. Do I need to buy the Tuner kit or just the Hardware?

You need the kit without tuner, part number 15560. The CARB tune will be available for everyone to download, free of charge, from Edelbrock!


Which kit do I need to buy? My car is stock, and I want a plug-and-play solution.

You will want to buy the kit with tuner, part number 1556. This kit includes an Ecutek license, cable, and dongle, so that you can tune your own car.


Will XYZ oil cooler work with the Edelbrock E-Force supercharger?

Possibly,. The kit does not intrude on the space necessary to use some of the common oil cooler kits. Confirmed fitments include:
- Mishimoto (modification necessary)
- OEM (FA20DIT)
- Perrin
- Jackson Racing (modification necessary)
- Jackson Racing dual radiator/oil cooler


Will the supercharger overheat? Do I need to add additional cooling for the supercharger itself? What is the service interval?

The Supercharger itself will not overheat; it is a self contained lubrication system, and has been proven to work well on ALL of the TVS applications, including those on Audis and the Z06. The fluids needs to be changed every 100k miles.


What is the break-in period for the supercharger? How do I break it in?

There is no break-in period for Edelbrock superchargers. Each supercharger unit is ran at Edelbrock before it is packaged to ensure fitment and quality. You can drive it hard as soon as it is installed!

How does the powertrain warranty work?

If you are driving a FRS/BRZ with the Edelbrock supercharger installed, running the supplied Edelbrock tune, and the kit is installed by an authorized dealer, your dealership, or an ASE certified technician, then your drivetrain is warranted by Edelbrock for 3 years or 36k miles on your odometer, from the date you originally bought your car.

Have a brand new car and/or are worried about your factory warranty? Edelbrock has you covered!


I want more power. Are other pulleys available?

Yes, absolutely! The kit comes with a 3.25" pulley, but 3.00", 2.75", and 2.50" pulleys will be available as well.


How much power can this supercharger make?

In CARB exempt form, the supercharger makes about 280-300hp at the crank, utilizing approximately 60% of the supercharger's capability. With a larger crank pulley, smaller supercharger pulley, and E85, 500hp is very feasible. You'd need a built engine to sustain that type of power though, as well as a whole host of supporting mods (additional cooling, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, etc.)


What does this kit cost?



$4,649.87 without Ecutek
$5,399.87 with Ecutek

The Edelbrock provided calibration is (will be) available to everyone on their website.


The much requested "non-cartoony" dynograph.



If you have a leakly bypass valve:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368

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Hello there i just wanted to ask if the edelbrock supercharger for subaru brz with tune is the same both for left hand drive and right hand drive beacuse on their site it doesnt have the option for lhd or rhd.. if anyone with this kit has it on rhd please tell me 🫠🫠

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[tomm.brz]

yoy just have to email edelbrock and ask them if they have a tune with your calibration.. lhd or rhd doesn t matter really the tune is the same, you need to find your current oem calibration