05-18-2016, 11:14 AM | #1289 | |
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E85 is only like 50 cents less than premium around here, which sucks, but some places the cost difference makes up for the loss in mileage. I imagine some cities in the midwest might see nearly +50% savings. But most 86 users go to corn for the power, not the savings. Superchargers can increase mileage under certain conditions, but again, considering most of us would use the added power, and drive harder, we wouldn't see it. I think even if you drive the same, if your driving consists of a lot of city, you'll also see a loss. Commuters with a light right foot maybe could see gains. Maybe. Turbos will be better in this regard I think. |
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05-18-2016, 12:06 PM | #1290 | |
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Pure gasoline = 14.7:1 10% Ethanol Gas = 14.04:1 15% Ethanol Gas = 13.79:1 E85 (85% Ethanol) = 9.75:1 Pure Ethanol (E100) = 9:1 The higher the number, the more air is required to provide an optimal mixture with the fuel for optimal combustion...or use less fuel. With E85, you need more fuel to mix with air in order to provide an ideal combustion condition. TL;DR You use more fuel with E85 for the same amount of air, therefore, your miles per gallon will be lower than standard gasoline. Hope this helps! |
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05-18-2016, 01:12 PM | #1291 | |||
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I would also have to disagree with the "greener" assumption. People on E85 seem to think that its better for the environment and they are dead wrong. Is it more energy independent? sure is. Is it better for the planet? depends on who you ask. Ask the corn growers and they will be all for it (you wanna guess why?) Ask environmentalists, they'd tell you we are wasting precious land on growing fuel instead of food. Ask the air resources board (whom I've worked for in the past), and its just as bad, if not worse than regular gas. Different fuel, different emissions (NOX vs CO2), all the same effect on global warming, etc. I guess along the lines of your "eating organic" analogy, sure, you pay more and feel better about it, but in the end, doesn't really affect the grand scheme of things But I'll get off my soap box now... I'd still go Flex Fuel if it didn't mean driving 30 mins out of my way to get to the closest E85 station |
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05-18-2016, 09:02 PM | #1292 |
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Just took a better look at my port injectors. The passenger side looked fine orientation wise. The driver side had both injectors keyed off a few degrees, the metal tab wasn't in between the valley. I twisted both back to proper position.
Now my long term fuel trim resembles a square wave. It's always on at +20 or it's immediately at 0. Actual log file Also - does anyone have any tips for getting the bottom ECU mounting bolt back in place? I know I've got some fat hands but still it's a PITA. I may have also crossthreaded it Hoses all appeared to be snugly fitted. I guess I'll drive it around until my new intake gasket arrives and I find a day to tear it apart. |
05-18-2016, 09:30 PM | #1293 | |
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You'll notice that your LTFT is only way off when your injection mode is port only. Either give it time or reset the ECU to force a faster relearn. |
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05-20-2016, 02:35 AM | #1294 |
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I swear you know everything..... Like an 86 Yoda.... A YodiSix....
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05-20-2016, 07:49 AM | #1295 | |
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'Cept, you've forgotten the human element to e85. My experience is that e85 = more fun, which = more time on the gas pedal than the cops would like = more fuel used
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05-21-2016, 04:17 PM | #1296 | |
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I just put some foam weather stripping around the radiator today and plan on testing it out. To see if that helps. I think this big bad radiator is heating the air in the engine bay more than the oem one did due to its increased cooling capacity and the intake was sucking air from the engine bay around it following the path of least resistance. The airbox was also very hot to the touch after a little bit of driving so I may end up heat shielding the whole intake right up to the pulleys. EDIT: Also I will be testing it out at Roebling Road Raceway June 4th and 5th so I'd like to compare results with you. I won't be able to log it, just take measurements at the conclusion of each run. I had the line kink issue as well, we had to massage it to get them to not kink the same way you did. We also reused the OEM cap because the Jr cap didn't fit properly. Last edited by Tomcat07; 05-21-2016 at 04:27 PM. |
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05-21-2016, 07:15 PM | #1297 |
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I thought the air was water cooled before it entered through the TB? or am I misunderstanding something? is the 145F before or after being cooled?
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05-22-2016, 12:28 AM | #1298 |
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I believe the air goes through the intercooler cores after the throttle body and the compressor but before the runners. If they are reading IATs via the MAP sensor, then it's after the intercooler.
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05-22-2016, 01:13 AM | #1299 |
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Those IATs are the post intercooler charge air Temps. 115 isn't really that bad on a 95 degree day, but 145 on a 95 degree day is a significant reduction. FYI 115 was the charge air Temp the TMAP sensor was reading with the oem radiator installed.
So far the weather stripping has helped. The car is pulling harder again but it's hard to tell if I got it back to where it was with the OEM radiator. The fact that it has improved does seem to indicate that the vacuum caused by the blower was suctioning some of the hot engine bay air. I'm probably going to finish ducting the whole radiator and maybe shield the air box and intake for good measure. Also, those hot radiator, a/c condenser, and intercooler are all right there potentially heating up some of the air going into the air box. That side of the radiator houses the oil cooler which is hotter than the radiator fins so it probably has an effect being right next to the intake opening. The oil is hotter than the water by a few degrees Celsius (don't know ferenheight our car reports in absolute pressures and Celsius temperatures) but I'd imagine 220 degree hot metal right next to the air box intake doesn't help. The OEM snorkel goes on the bumper side of the air dam which serves to shield intake temperatures from the radiator/condenser heat, but the edelbrock opening sits right above the radiator. Though it didn't really cause any problems with the oem radiator, this new one has the oil cooler sitting right under it. |
05-23-2016, 11:45 AM | #1300 |
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Help!!!!
So this morning I was making the typical school run, dropping the siblings off. And I come upto a stop light and come to a complete stop. 30 seconds goes by, the light turns green I put the car in 1st gear and it shut off. No bogging, no hesitation, no RPM hunting nothing. Car just dies. And then I tried to turn it over and it doesn't even attempt to crank, nothing at all. Just silence, but all of the lights on my dash are on. Anybody have any idea what it is? Running the Carb Legal Tune for about 550miles. |
05-23-2016, 11:55 AM | #1301 | |
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Check the alternator/battery cable, see if something is loose. Of course make sure there is not a hole in your motor, but that would be a odd. |
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05-23-2016, 11:57 AM | #1302 | |
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check battery connection? no clicking or any sound when trying to start?
if you can, take the tension off the belt and remove the belt, and see if the supercharger pulley rotates freely; or whether the issue is with the engine itself. it's a quick way to possibly isolate an issue if they're decoupled. Quote:
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