STX Rules and Setup Questions

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by Blue Gt

I agree with everything but the cost estimate for wheels and tires.
New RPF-1's are $1,116.00 delivered. Trust me I know, DP

RPF1s are cheaper than that from Oakos But yeah, $1500 is absurdly cheap for RPF1s and RE-71Rs (and Rival-S is even more expensive!)

[ハチロク]

might have been asked before but are the mtech shift springs STX legal?

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by ハチロク

might have been asked before but are the mtech shift springs STX legal?

Probably not, but even though they offer no real performance advantage somebody will throw paper to "take a trophy away" from you if they find out.

[Kostamojen]

Originally Posted by justint5387

They don't really have 10k invested. I was there to see what they have and I know what we have. I driven minimum prepped ones that can be just as fast, shocks may not have the same "feel" but its get the job done.

If you source your part smartly, it can be done with 5 to 6k.

I agree with you. I have seen cars with $10k invested (I did the math on my car, and everything I've done is over $10k now LOL) but most are in the range you mention.
[quote=strat61caster;2590918]
The reality is for the average guy about $2k in coilover/suspension and <$1700 grabs you brand new RPF1's with RE71R's mounted right now and you've got a car that's a blast to drive with a ton of adjustment and setup potential that will run pretty well locally. You can skip the header and tune, bushings, fancy diff and high end coilovers and still slide it around like a maniac. At only $165/tire for 245/40/17 RE71R's right now and the plethora of coilovers available under $2k you can have a lot of fun for not much more money than CS imo.[quote]
Man you can't skip the headers+tune, thats the best part! :P

But no really, the headers+tune really make the car more drivable not just in autox but even as a daily driver and even on track days. I have a really hard time going back to stock cause the car just feels gimped now running stock That power band increase in the 4000rpm area just makes everything so much better.

See you in a few weeks at Crow's, where I'll probably still be on the stock powertrain unless I get a Christmas miracle in April.

Wish I could go, I'm a primary caregiver now so I don't get out much. I will be visiting the Prosolo at least but I won't be racing.

Originally Posted by renfield90

This. I had what was probably a top ten CS car (driver is a different story) and promptly after nationals sat down in a well-sorted (though far from full tilt) STX twin. It is night and day, and 2 seconds is a huge gap.

I think the big thing is that the gap between an STX and C-stock car is roughly the same as the gap between a completely stock car and a C-stock car. And the cost difference being twice as much to do STX versus C-stock really makes it a linear progression in terms of cost/class/results.

Originally Posted by Blue Gt

I agree with everything but the cost estimate for wheels and tires.

I did put a low end number for wheels/tires... It should be closer to $2000.

[Silver Ignition]

The great thing about these cars is that people impulse buy them, realize they're not practical for their lives and promptly part-out and sell them. There is a plethora of used parts on the market. The only things I've purchased new for my car have been the Helix mirrors and the Perrin front sway bar.


KW v3 w/Vorschlag tops $1700
17x9 w/Bridgestone RE-11 $950
TRD rear sway bar $100
SPC LCA's $95
OpenFlash Tablet $375
etc...


In total I'm into my car for about $4000

[jbailey8748]

As a side note while reading up, noticed the Whiteline roll center correction kit is illegal, probably repeated info but it was on the 'I need to investigate' list until now.


Now that, that might take a trophy away from someone...[/QUOTE]


I thought the whitelines roll center correction kit used different length ball joints, is it just spacers they use?


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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by jbailey8748

I thought the whitelines roll center correction kit used different length ball joints, is it just spacers they use?


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Yes they are ball joint replacements. However, call it whatever you want, far as I'm concerned you're changing the suspension geometry by changing the distance between the control arms and the hub carrier, by definition that's a spacer which is explicitly disallowed.

Edit: lol sound just like the guy I laughed at on the last page for saying the SPC bearing is totally illegal and you'd be a jerk for using it.

Installation starts at 3 minutes:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oob9dpQi3Qg"]Whiteline Front Roll Center Kit - Scion FR-S/Subaru BRZ Install/Review - YouTube[/ame]

[justint5387]

Those tie rods are illegal from how i interpret the rules.

[2superblus]

CORRECT!
Whiteline roll center correction kit "IS NOT LEGAL".

With that said you can always write a letter.

[jbailey8748]

Seems silly that you can remove the sub frame to burn out bushings but can't unscrew a tie rod.

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[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by jbailey8748

Seems silly that you can remove the sub frame to burn out bushings but can't unscrew a tie rod.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Allowing suspension geometry changes can be a slippery slope if not worded properly.

Edit: And imo not in the spirit of a 'street class' which would push car owners towards investing into engineering consultation of dynamics for those that can't do it themselves if there isn't an adequate off the shelf solution. Rules shouldn't just ensure equal, quality, entertaining competition, they should also keep costs reasonable.

[toeout]

I really wish there was a rear swaybar where the softest setting would be stock or even little less and the max setting about 150% stiffer than stock. 4 holes for adjustment.


At Dixie, with 16mm Whiteline in the softest setting, the car was annoyingly loose. At Wilmington, the same setting would not even be enough. With the Q300, changing the sway is PITA.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by toeout

I really wish there was a rear swaybar where the softest setting would be stock or even little less and the max setting about 150% stiffer than stock. 4 holes for adjustment.

A sway with bigger adjustment would be great, pretty much everything is 2 hole except a few rears like Perrin that are 3 hole. Thought about taking a drill to the holes to make slots to get those in-between stiffnesses, designed a blade type sway bar in college that supposedly worked out pretty well and a few days ago found a company that claimed they could make them for any car, couldn't find them again but they pretty much look like this:

http://provenwicked.com/product_deta...&CID=OA==&VID=

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspen...blade-type.htm

So the flex comes from the blades, adjusting or swapping the blades out should be as easy as any other sway adjustment. But I think we need a bend of some sort in the middle on both bars to not hit other things.

[toeout]

That looks like great solution, except little too much $$$. The bar itself could most likely be moved back, using spacers, so we wouldn't need the bend in the middle.


When I had my Civic, I used the ASR bar and that is the type of bar that I'm looking for. https://www.asrparts.com/collections...llow-bar-mount
4 holes for adjustments, but more importantly the center section is available with different wall thickness, so you can really cover any stiffness you desire