04-28-2021, 07:52 AM | #99 | |
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04-28-2021, 10:42 AM | #100 | |
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On the Kpower site, they mentioned that the management will be done via a Haltech unit. Do you know if that is still the case? Why retain the FA throttle body? What i am most interested about is if this swap kit can make the car feel like it left factory. Like AC, PS, TC, cluster, HVAC all work.
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04-28-2021, 10:46 AM | #101 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to ML For This Useful Post: | Irace86.2.0 (04-28-2021) |
04-28-2021, 10:52 AM | #102 |
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Thanks. I was hoping they are working on a solution that will make K24 work with factory ECU which was done by another FT86 member (solidsnake?). Keeping all factory options functional is very important to me and I am thinking that this can be achieved the easiest by retaining the factory ECU. Though i can be totally off base.
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04-28-2021, 10:59 AM | #103 | |
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The Haltech can do absolutely everything the factory ECU can do (and much much more). They have a custom made harness that is included that connects everything together. Not sure what features you would be worried about losing?
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04-28-2021, 11:03 AM | #104 |
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Again, thanks for the info. You might be right as i am a noob in terms of management systems. Fully functional cluster, TC and ODB port are the main things.
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04-28-2021, 11:20 AM | #105 |
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yeah, all that will still work.
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04-28-2021, 11:34 AM | #106 |
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Another thing is that since they are moving the transmission 4 inches rearwards, what does this mean for the shifter location inside the car? Or will the adapter reposition it back to the factory location?
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04-28-2021, 11:42 AM | #107 | |
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"I don’t have a pic handy, but the shifter location, angle, and throw is identical to stock. We built a new shifter carrier and selector rod to make it all work"
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04-28-2021, 01:28 PM | #108 |
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I have been saying this since day one and all the fanboys called me crazy.. the fa20 is the car's weakest point
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04-28-2021, 04:09 PM | #109 |
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I was told this as well, and that could mean not using their intake manifold and using a Skunk2 manifold or something or using the wiring harness and Haltech, but not the transmission stuff, but the problem I could see happening is just making sure to bot mix and match the wrong parts like will both oil pans clear with the opposite company’s engine mounts, or would a header from one work with the other’s engine and transmission mounts?
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04-28-2021, 10:13 PM | #110 |
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04-28-2021, 11:45 PM | #111 |
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04-30-2021, 12:51 AM | #112 |
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In another email reply I learned that Haltech will replace the factor ECU completely, and it will control the key fob and start button, so that means I can sell my old ECU, which may or may not work with someone else's car, but if it does then they would get access to the CARB tune and the other DT tunes I have, even if those tunes would be specific to my engine.
They also said that either the USDM or JDM K24A2 would work the same, just in case anyone wonders. I got the rest of the components off the car including the headers, supercharger radiator, and other components that will be sold or is part of my kit. I tried to get the driveshaft off, but the diff/shaft bolts are being a real bitch. I sprayed it with penetrating lubricant. Hopefully that works. Getting all the bolts off of the engine isn't easy like there are literally a million bolts on the timing chain cover, and I still feel like it doesn't want to come off. Same with the oil pan; that glue is legit. All accessories are off, and I removed the valve covers, so it is just the long block that needs disassembly, but I bet it will take some time. Surprisingly, the initial glance at the cams seemed to show little sign of wear and damage. They are toast because of oil contamination, but still looking somewhat normal. I have to go to hazmat dump tomorrow to get rid of the coolant/oil mix, and then I plan to remove the transmission for easier access the the block. I might get an engine hoist and engine stand tomorrow too.
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