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02-10-2020, 02:22 AM | #1 |
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Alignment issues, almost seems like it can’t be fixed.
To elaborate more:
On October 19 I installed coilovers. Alignment was fine for a while and then decided to install the strut bar that came with the coilovers, did alignment again and the car drove pretty good. About two weeks after that, I replace my tires and from what I recall the issue started about that time, tho I don’t remember if it was before or after the tires. Any way, since about that week, I had a weird noise coming from the front, followed by a crooked steering wheel to the right (the noise is also sounding like it comes from the right) at first, my mechanic thought it was the coilovers and he readjusted it. The noise did not go away but the car did drove better. We moved to the control arm bushings and replaced them with Powerflex’s bushings with camber & caster adjusts. After the installation, I fixed the crooked steering wheel but the car started pulling to the right. (I installed the bushings at an alignment shop and did an alignment after the installation.) The guy at the alignment shop tried his best to fix it but he didn’t seem to find a problem. I went to a second alignment shop and they didn’t fix it either, they asked me to rotate the tires and come back, and so was done. He aligned the car again but it still pulled to the right. He aligned it - again, but the steering wheel was crooked like it did before. I decided to ignore the fact that I paid to this shop and they never solved the problem. I went to a third alignment shop - and he fixed the car pulling to the right by increasing the caster on the right from 6.45 degrees to 7.13, while on the left it was 6.35 The car drove fine afterwards and I went to a track day. The caster on the right feels too much for me comparing to the left, every time I needed to take a corner to the left it felt sooooo much different from the right. I really have no idea what to do. Part list at the front - Powerflex’s Front control arm bushings with camber and caster Cusco sport s coilovers Yokohama AD08r Rays Gramlights 57cr -2.5 degrees of camber at both wheels Thank you in advance!
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02-10-2020, 04:03 AM | #2 |
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You might want to post the print out of the alignment as well for other peoples reference. Toe might be messed up if the steering wheel is crooked but I kinda doubt that if its been aligned 3 times. Also what does the noise sound like?
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02-10-2020, 04:40 AM | #3 |
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Ride height?
Swaybars? Endlinks? It sounds like your alignment shop guys are muppets
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02-10-2020, 04:32 PM | #4 |
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That was my first thought. Straightening the wheel should be easy
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02-10-2020, 08:54 PM | #5 |
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Have you tried cross rotating the tires in the front. If it pulls the opposite direction it's the tire.
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02-11-2020, 03:42 AM | #6 | |||
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Alignment issues, almost seems like it can’t be fixed.
Quote:
The alignment print is in hebrew unfortunately, best I can do is guess what is what and translate it :/ The noise is only when the chassis is “cold” and disappears after 10+-km of driving Quote:
No swaybars/endlinks or any other things other than what I wrote Shops that are professional in general here is like finding a unicorn Quote:
Yes we have tried it and the car still pulled to the right but a lot less Tires are new about 2000km on the car Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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02-11-2020, 03:49 AM | #7 |
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You sure the swaybar links aren't hitting?
I would remove the wheels and look for witness marks. Also xlean the surface of the tyre and put on a chalk line, then drive forward and see where it wears the chalk off.
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02-11-2020, 03:49 AM | #8 |
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You sure the swaybar links aren't hitting?
I would remove the wheels and look for witness marks. Also xlean the surface of the tyre and put on a chalk line, then drive forward and see where it wears the chalk off.
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02-12-2020, 04:55 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
I have checked and they are not touching. For the noise - my mechanic suggests that it is the anti roll bar bushings. For the alignment my mechanic is taking the car to another alignment shop tomorrow to take a look. For now it seems that a solution won't be found in the near future
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02-12-2020, 06:33 PM | #10 |
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Being 2.5" lower is too much without geometry correction... you want to keep it in the ~1.5" lower range and start over.
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02-12-2020, 07:16 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
I saw some kits online but I’m not sure what to get. But I don’t feel exceptional bump steer Also as you probably can understand I don’t think that it will be easy to find a shop that can adjust it properly :/ If you have any suggestions for a good kit, (I looked at the white line and it said that it was discontinued) or in general, I’m open to hear Cost is not a factor, just need the car to drive good. It’s worth mentioning that it is my daily so products that will make the car overall too stiff might be less ideal Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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02-13-2020, 06:43 AM | #12 |
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I can't believe there is no one really good you can find. Aren't there race teams and people that work on race cars? It sounds like you've taken it to the people that only know how to fix normal stuff. You need to find someone that knows how to fix the professional stuff, even if you have to drive several hours each way to get there.
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02-13-2020, 07:06 AM | #13 |
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You can check total toe yourself very easily. Measure from side to side at the front of the wheel and again at the back.
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02-14-2020, 10:05 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
At 2.5" lower you need a lot more than just the whiteline kit (which was re-introduced, possibly under a new part number) if you want good geometry, you're low enough that the axles will be under a lot more stress too (need to raise the diff to fix that). IMO, you'd be much better off if the car was about 1.5" lower than stock. Since you're getting asymmetrical behaviour, have you verified the preload is the same left/right at both ends? Who did the initial installation of the coilovers? I would start over, make sure the pre-load is set correctly at all four corners, then set the ride height higher up and have it re-aligned. I would also suggest making sure there's no worn bushings/balljoints/tie rods anywhere if that hasn't already been ruled out.
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