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Old 07-27-2015, 02:18 PM   #1
wnt3d
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Arrow Wnt3d's 86 - Turbo E85 Daily/Track Build

As most people on here, I've been quietly collecting parts over the years and have finally almost obtained most things that I've wanted. Originally intended to keep the 86 fairly standard since I've had a few modified cars before and did not want another low, loud and police attention car again. But it didn't last long until the mod bug hit and small upgrades started to arrive. The standard 197hp did not satisfy my need for power so the search for forced induction was on.

Fast forward 18 months and almost every corner of the car has been upgraded in someway or somehow. Turbo kit will be installed in the coming week and I'll update as I go.


How it looked on its last outting (before turbo prep teardown) - 12-7-15





and how it sits now.....




| ENGINE |
Custom Equal Length SS Manifold with 3” dump
Garrett GTX2867R 0.63 Turbo
Turbosmart Comp Gate40
Turbosmart BOV Dual Port 38mm
Hypertune Aluminium Intercooler
FullBlownMotorsports Cast Sump
FullBlownMotorsports Aluminium Radiator + Shroud + SPAL Fans
OEM Subaru ‘Laminova’ Type Oil Cooler Kit
SpeedFlow Fittings & Hoses
SME 3” Over Pipe
SME 3” Front Pipe
Tomei 80R Titanium 3” Exhaust
TRD Oil Temperature/Pressure Sandwich Plate
TRD Water Temperature Adapter
Raceseng Cam Plate

| TRANSMISSION |
HKS Light Action Clutch with Lightened Flywheel
STI Group-N Engine Mounts
STI Group-N Transmission Mount

| SUSPENSION & BRAKES |
MCA Red Coilovers
Whiteline Adjustable Front Swaybar + endlinks
Whiteline Adjustable Rear Swaybar + endlinks
Whiteline Rear Swaybar Mount Brace
Whiteline Front Roll Center & Bump Correction Kit
Whiteline Diff Mount Cradle Insert Bushings
Whiteline Subframe Mount Insert Bushings
SPL Adjustable Toe Arms
SPL Adjustable Traction Arms
Carbing Titanium Front Strut Bar
Carbing Titanium Front Tower Braces
Carbing Aluminium Rear Strut Bar
Motul RBF660 Brake Fluid
Bendix Ultimate Brake Pads Front *** BBK to come

| ECU & FUEL SYSTEM |
Ecutek RaceRom ECU
Injector Dynamics 1300cc Stainless Steel Injectors
FullBlownMotorsports 485 E85 Fuel Pump Kit
Delicious Tuning BT Flex Fuel Kit

| INTERIOR |
Defi Advance BF Boost Gauge
Defi Advance BF Oil Pressure Gauge
Defi Advance BF Oil Temperature Gauge
Defi Advance BF Water Temperature Gauge
Defi Advance BF Fuel Pressure Gauge–
Defi Advance Control Box
Blitz Dash Panel Gauge Holder
Blockhead Dual 60mm Gauge Holder
R Magic Gear Knob
Cusco Drift Button

| WHEELS & TIRES |
Advan TC3 18x9.5 +40 ‘Square Setup’
Nitto Invo 265/35/18 Street
Advan AD08R 265/35/18 Track

| EXTERIOR |
TOM’s Red Tail Lights
TRD Rear Window Air Stabilizer
Beatsonic Version 2 Shark Fin
HIC Window Visors
HIC Roof Wing




Stay Tuned!

Last edited by wnt3d; 08-03-2015 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 08-02-2015, 01:45 PM   #2
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Since the stock clutch is known to slip with forced induction I decided to upgrade it while doing a gearbox oil change which was due soon anyway. I didn't want to choose anything too heavy duty like a twin plate or something that's either on/off, and some what similar to the stock pedal feel. The HKS LA (Light Action) clutch kit comes with a lightened flywheel, and is rated at 400Nm (41Kgm / 295lbft) which approximates to 295kw (400ps) while supposedly retaining stockish pedal weight.












Stock clutch removed and all cleaned up


Clutch installed along with Raceseng Cam Plate
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Old 08-03-2015, 10:58 AM   #3
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Also forgot to add that whilst the car was up on stands with the gearbox out I ended up installing STI engine & transmission mounts, whiteline suspension goodies, subaru oem oil cooler and finished off running the wires and sensors for the defi gauges.

STI Engine and Transmission Mounts


STI Engine Mounts




STI Transmission Mount

STI mount on the left VS stock mounts on the right

Whiteline Front Swaybar & endlinks

Swaybar thickness closeup

Endlink thickness close up




Whiteline KCA435 - front roll centre/bump steer correction kit



Whiteline KDT925 - rear differential cradle & outrigger insert bushings


Whiteline KDT922 - rear crossmember insert bushings


OEM Subaru 'Laminova' Type oil cooler kit


I ended up routing the wires along side the main engine harness under the intake plenum and through the firewall via the main rubber grommet. A TRD water temp adapter and oil sandwhich plate were used to mount the water temp and oil temp sensors. The oil pressure sensor is connected directly to the top oil gallery port next to the throttle body. The fuel pressure sensor is connected via a flare tee fitting with 1/8 NPT thread, clamped between one of the fuel rail supply hoses.

Routing the wires from drivers side grommet to advance control box behind the glove box


Gauge wiring and sensors


TRD Water temp adapter + Oil sandwhich plate

Oil sandwhich plate - front

Oil sandwhich plate - back

Water temp adapter

Speedflow -4 Flare Tee with 1/8 NPT branch : fuel pressure sensor adapter


Diagram with the wires coloured in to illustrate my routing method

Wires enter through grommet within a 'self closing braided wire wrap'. - It made it alot easier to run 1 bundle of wires behind the dash instead of 5 individual ones.



And the end result, exactly how I wanted it. I know to alot of people its not their cup of tea to have so many gauges when you can have many alternate methods to display the same parameters with less difficulty, but I've always loved the old jdm race car feel with gauges everywhere!

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Old 08-03-2015, 11:08 AM   #4
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Wow certainly took your time and did things right. Lot of work and money into the ride, love the look and the quality of work done. Big two thumbs up.
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Old 08-04-2015, 12:09 AM   #5
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Wow certainly took your time and did things right. Lot of work and money into the ride, love the look and the quality of work done. Big two thumbs up.
Thanks buddy. It has been a long road hoarding parts but its finally time to enjoy it all!

I've been following your JDL 4854 install/review thread for good photos and install shots before I started mine, was of great help!

Question - where did you plum the crank case ventilation hose that usually goes into the intake if (a) your not running a catch can setup, yet (b) my alloy intake piping doesn't have a a fitting point for the hose?
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:11 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by wnt3d View Post
Thanks buddy. It has been a long road hoarding parts but its finally time to enjoy it all!

I've been following your JDL 4854 install/review thread for good photos and install shots before I started mine, was of great help!

Question - where did you plum the crank case ventilation hose that usually goes into the intake if (a) your not running a catch can setup, yet (b) my alloy intake piping doesn't have a a fitting point for the hose?
I have both pcv and crankcase vent to fullblown catch can but my intake pipe had a nipple to connect the crankcase vent similar to oem setup. I could have gone both ways. What I've seen people do is attach a breather filter to the crankcase line and leave it, somewhat the same as running it back to a catch can and venting. Glad I was able to help in any way. Right now I upgraded to a Garrett and had to run the coolant lines for
It, pretty messy experience lol.

Heres my line route, one from pcv to can and the crankcase line also to can.

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Last edited by yomny; 08-04-2015 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:59 AM   #7
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Very awesome build.
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Old 08-04-2015, 10:13 AM   #8
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Keep us posted on the track experience and how the cooler handles it. I've been dying to jump on the track but afraid, still need my oil cooler though.
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:14 AM   #9
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Thats one sexy lookin car you got there! Definately subscribing to this thread. Keep us posted on the turbo set up and any more tack days you'll end up doing.

Keep up the good work!
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What are you talking about? You just killed one of the worst brands in history according to enthusiasts. People will be worshipping you like sheep.
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Old 08-04-2015, 01:53 PM   #10
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very clean work. keep it up
and more pictures
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Old 08-05-2015, 05:33 AM   #11
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Quality build right here.

That Nur spec looks so good without the wing.
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Old 08-05-2015, 05:57 AM   #12
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I have to ask, after replacing the clutch did the marbles-rolling-down-a-pipe sound when the engine is labouring become reduced/disappear?
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:45 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yomny View Post
I have both pcv and crankcase vent to fullblown catch can but my intake pipe had a nipple to connect the crankcase vent similar to oem setup. I could have gone both ways. What I've seen people do is attach a breather filter to the crankcase line and leave it, somewhat the same as running it back to a catch can and venting. Glad I was able to help in any way. Right now I upgraded to a Garrett and had to run the coolant lines for
It, pretty messy experience lol.

Heres my line route, one from pcv to can and the crankcase line also to can.

After second thought's I'm going to get a barb fitting attached to my intake to plum it properly and will most probably go with a radium dual can setup. I was worried if by running a filter at the end of the hose and tucking it, if it may cause any flammable blow by to spray onto the hot engine and risk catching alight
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:47 AM   #14
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I have to ask, after replacing the clutch did the marbles-rolling-down-a-pipe sound when the engine is labouring become reduced/disappear?
I'm not quite sure what you mean? where's 'this sound' coming from you speak of?


- thank you everyone for the kind feedback, just waiting for some titanium heat wrap to arrive and I'll wrap up the manifold and have more pretty pictures of the install as I go. In the mean time I still need to plug in the injectors, fuel pump and ebc.
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