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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 01-09-2020, 07:07 PM   #29
Breadman
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I assume he means toe plates, as in the alignment tool.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...9&prodid=10270

oh duh im a moron
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Old 01-10-2020, 07:17 PM   #30
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Still STX

I got an email from Doug Gill confirming the STS thing was just a typo in the column header of the draft rules. The twins are still in STX for 2020.
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Old 01-12-2020, 06:13 PM   #31
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Hey guys, so I just picked up a 2013 brz limited this past summer from a friend. I spend most of the summer just driving the car and enjoying it being so busy. This next year I'm planning on getting back into autocross and am just looking for input. Definitely thinking going the stx route, in your guys opinion, what's the best thing to do first on these cars, let's say you have $2,000 for this year what are you spending it on? I have a catback exhaust on the car and a k&n drop in filter. As well as a larger (i forget which sway bar at the moment) and tires I will be going the 71's as I work for bridgestone, tires are dirt cheap. Also I currently have hawk hp+ pads all the way around with decent life yet. So other than that, where are you putting the money? I'm trying to be smart on my spending as I have another project car, (factory five 818) I'm trying to finish this year as well.

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Old 01-12-2020, 06:35 PM   #32
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Coilovers and alignment, lots of discussion in this thread, last years thread, and the overall stx thread.
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Old 01-12-2020, 06:46 PM   #33
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Cool cool yeah I've been combing over everything and just trying to prioritize for this year. I feel like on these things, it can get real crazy real quick when you start to add up the modifications. Almost more so than any other Subaru ive owned.
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Old 01-12-2020, 09:00 PM   #34
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This has been posted elsewhere but fuck it lets throw it in this thread too; budget recipe for an STX build imho

17x9 Wheels
Tirerack brand, ~$668
245/40/17 RE71R
Tirerack $742
Mounted and balanced from TR to my door ~$1410 + taxes

ProParts STX Megan Coilovers (comes with camber plates and front end links)
~$2k shipped with taxes iirc
Whiteline rear subframe inserts ~$50
SPC rear LCA's + Diftech bushings ~$300 (or Whiteline LCA's)
Perrin 22mm Front Swaybar ~$240

Header
$700 name brand short tube header (UEL for da torques n burbles, Tomei/JDL/etc.)
OpenFlash Tablet
$500

Total: $5,200

Buy used and you can cut your total down to <$4k (wheels, first set of comp tires, coilovers, header, OFT).


People will prioritize differently "gotta have X, Y is crap don't buy that" and there are absolutely more expensive parts with measurable gains, but I think that they're in the noise unless you're capable of extracting 99.99% of the cars potential and you're trying to beat someone also capable of extracting 99.99% of the cars potential.

I could easily make a build list >$15k (without resorting to $10k Penske dampers or $4k wheels), but I don't think it's worth it, if I get beat with the above basic parts it's probably because I got outdriven, not outspent.

That being said I'm probably going to plop down $700 for a Karcepts front sway bar (because I don't think my 20mm bar is stiff enough and I can afford to spend an extra $500 on a swaybar) and a $900 set of A052's, might even go for a catback if the right one pops up coincidentally when I find some cash burning a hole in my pocket.
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Old 01-13-2020, 09:35 AM   #35
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This has been posted elsewhere but fuck it lets throw it in this thread too; budget recipe for an STX build imho

17x9 Wheels
Tirerack brand, ~$668
245/40/17 RE71R
Tirerack $742
Mounted and balanced from TR to my door ~$1410 + taxes

ProParts STX Megan Coilovers (comes with camber plates and front end links)
~$2k shipped with taxes iirc
Whiteline rear subframe inserts ~$50
SPC rear LCA's + Diftech bushings ~$300 (or Whiteline LCA's)
Perrin 22mm Front Swaybar ~$240

Header
$700 name brand short tube header (UEL for da torques n burbles, Tomei/JDL/etc.)
OpenFlash Tablet
$500

Total: $5,200

Buy used and you can cut your total down to <$4k (wheels, first set of comp tires, coilovers, header, OFT).


People will prioritize differently "gotta have X, Y is crap don't buy that" and there are absolutely more expensive parts with measurable gains, but I think that they're in the noise unless you're capable of extracting 99.99% of the cars potential and you're trying to beat someone also capable of extracting 99.99% of the cars potential.

I could easily make a build list >$15k (without resorting to $10k Penske dampers or $4k wheels), but I don't think it's worth it, if I get beat with the above basic parts it's probably because I got outdriven, not outspent.

That being said I'm probably going to plop down $700 for a Karcepts front sway bar (because I don't think my 20mm bar is stiff enough and I can afford to spend an extra $500 on a swaybar) and a $900 set of A052's, might even go for a catback if the right one pops up coincidentally when I find some cash burning a hole in my pocket.

so ive seen people run both whiteline and perrin. whats the difference between the 2 if they are both the same size?
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:37 AM   #36
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so ive seen people run both whiteline and perrin. whats the difference between the 2 if they are both the same size?
Whiteline doesn't publish stiffness numbers, hole location/arm length, metal choice, construction, heat treating, bend radius could all affect stiffness. They're likely close but I would not claim they are identical so I'm just picking Perrin based off the advice of a few different people and the fact that they publish a real spring rate for their bar.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:39 AM   #37
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That's not a IMO build, that's the current national champ build. Teddie's car is a carbon copy of my old car and Jeff Wong's original build. Some parts are slightly different but they all serve the same purpose. And she didn't have the rear LCA's either.

The Whiteline bar is stiffer than the Perrin because bar angles, so you're basically stuck on full soft or it pushes. Depending on your coilovers rates.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:40 AM   #38
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M0nk3y has a setup that works, but the front camber previously seemed extreme. Now, I don't think so.

I'm going to go up in camber in front this year. I'll probably be in the -4.1 range.

I switched to 7k springs in the front during the down season, so with the softer setup, I decided to raise my car's ride height. I noticed at national's last year, I was probably the lowest setup, and not in a good way. In a different thread I mentioned bottoming out (tire hitting the top of the wheel well), and I want to reduce that.

With more travel and softer springs, and Yokohama tires, I think I'll have more front grip, so I'll probably need more camber. I measure tire temps, so I'll know if the adjustment helps.

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I honestly wouldn't be surprised if I'm at -4.5 for this season. I still have to think over some things

FRS CoG is pretty low, I think back in the early development people tried slamming the car. As a result, one of the impacts was snapping axles.

Available shock travel I think is often overlooked as a pretty key important setup tool. One of the reasons I chose remotes on my MCS was the available travel in the rear + not having to run bump stops.

End result is the car can do stupid stuff like this and not get upset:




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so ive seen people run both whiteline and perrin. whats the difference between the 2 if they are both the same size?
Hole location so the effective rate is different between the two. Personally, besides the subframe bushings I think Whiteline products are absolute garbage. When I first setup my car, I had a whiteline bar on my car. I couldn't figure out forever why my car would contact the right (passenger) LCA and not the left. The bar was actually extruded 0.5" further on the right than the left. Whiteline factory wasn't even aware of the design flaw until I pointed it out to them.
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:41 AM   #39
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+yokes yes

But some schmuck will claim only heitkotter could win on Megan's
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:46 AM   #40
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+yokes yes

But some schmuck will claim only heitkotter could win on Megan's
I won't go down that road - however I'll show you this video of final National runs on the East side where Heitkotter embarrassed as all.

You'll see 3 cars:

Ray - who is on KW v3s
Me - MCS 2Way Remotes
Bryan: ProPart Megan

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qLZgiePJnws[/ame]

Per Bryan's comment from what HE saw watching:

Quote:
Very interesting to see as well how the 3 cars behave on course. The videography is so good you can really see the suspensions working. Kyle 's car looks really well buttoned down, even over that bump in the back 180. Our car holds its own pretty well I think on the Megan dampers. Ray's car looks a little more wild! But is clearly fast anyway.
FWIW - Read as you see fit
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Old 01-13-2020, 10:56 AM   #41
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ok looks like ill be going perrin 22mm front and keep the performance pack rear sway. that is unless being a 6k springs mean i should go smaller. also will i need adjustable endlinks? im lowered 1" and i know perrins endlinks are non adjustable
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Old 01-13-2020, 01:37 PM   #42
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End links highly recommended, might even be necessary as some coilovers relocate the mounting point such that when lowered the stock end links can cause issues being too long. The bar itself is rarely an issue though (unless you have monk3ys unfortunate problem with whiteline) so if that's all that's going in stock links are probably fine in the short term assuming it's fine before the bar.

Stock links won't allow you to split the mounting holes without preloading the bar, gotta pick soft or stiff. Same with Perrin which seems nice for a set it and forget it DD, a waste of money if you want to dial in a setup.
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