10-07-2020, 03:56 PM | #1023 |
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When getting the tune, does the tune require dyno tuning or revisions like other E-tunes, or is the tune entirely canned because it is a CARB tune?
I got my file from Harrop. Still waiting on the sticker. The instructions has me confused.
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10-07-2020, 05:44 PM | #1024 |
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The CARB tune is canned.
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10-07-2020, 06:15 PM | #1025 |
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Maybe the instructions and email were general instructions for their other tunes, or maybe it is just small print to cover their butt, but it was confusing.
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10-08-2020, 03:13 PM | #1026 |
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Hey guys,
I'm usually over in the Edelbrock forum, but I'm developing a remote Map Sensor for that kit and wanted to see if there's any need for it on the Harrop. |
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10-08-2020, 04:58 PM | #1027 |
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That’s been a recent topic here in the last few pages. Definitely looking for potential solutions. What do you have in mind?
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10-08-2020, 05:40 PM | #1028 | |
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I've begun piecing together materials for one also, in order to remedy pressure pulsations inherent with these positive displacement blowers. Is there a link to your project? |
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10-09-2020, 12:06 PM | #1029 |
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The order for the CNC shop for the Edelbrock design went out today. I don't have the finished product in hand yet but 3D printed several prototypes for fitment. Issue is I don't have a Harrop nearby to test with. I do have a working design based on the dimensions of the stock MAP sensor. The idea is to T off your bypass line and run it to this CNC anodized vacuum block that also plugs the stock location. Depending on what you guys want to do, I can design it with the vacuumport facing forward or towards the bottom at the MAP location.
Last edited by B T; 10-09-2020 at 12:13 PM. Reason: more details |
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10-09-2020, 05:29 PM | #1030 | |
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10-09-2020, 10:06 PM | #1031 | |
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Can you post a sketch of your plumbing and set up? So far I’ve gathered up two of the 15 psi gauges with the 1/8” male fittings on the back sides that I posted a picture of a few days ago, a hard plastic air gun filter with 1/4” male and female NPT fittings, and a 1/4” flow restrictor with 1/8” female pressure tap. A few modifications, some 1/4” to 3/8” fuel hose, some 1/4” and 1/8” NPT plugs or caps, some other miscellaneous adapters, some holes drilled, and some brackets to hold everything in place is the rest of what I’ll need to test everything. I’m planning on using the MAP port of the Harrop kit. |
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10-14-2020, 05:42 PM | #1032 |
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The executive order is finally on CARB's website:
EO# D-829 https://ww3.arb.ca.gov/msprog/afterm...s/eo/d-829.pdf
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10-15-2020, 03:27 PM | #1033 |
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I had my kit installed last week. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to drive the car much, but should be finalizing the tune shortly. Very impressed so far, love the linear power.
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10-24-2020, 01:38 AM | #1034 | |
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10-25-2020, 03:18 PM | #1035 |
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hi guys
what is the average/ok coolant temperatures? with this kit on a stock pully |
10-25-2020, 04:55 PM | #1036 | |
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Unless someone hooks up a custom coolant temp sensor for the intercooler coolant, there is no way to know. You could use an infrared gun to measure the different pipes pre and post cooling, but this won't give you anything exact. Most people look at intake air temperature (IAT) for metrics on whether the system is running optimally. In a perfect system, where heat was pulled from the charged air with 100% efficiency, the IAT would match ambient temperature. This is not possible, so the goal is to keep them as close as possible. The difference between these two measurements will fluctuate a lot depending on many factors such as ambient temperature, boost pressure, fuel source, tune, vehicle speed, boost duty cycle, etc., and therefore, the delta across the core changes significantly. For instance, in high ambient temperatures with a lower boost pressure setting, the difference in ambient air temperature and IAT is not that much, so the potential delta is not that much. Even if someone put in a larger intercooler, there may not be enough difference in temperatures to create a significant delta, so a larger intercooler may not do much, yet it probably won't matter, as the system will probably have adequate IATs. Conversely, in a low ambient temperature situation with high boost pressure, the difference in temps is large, so the potential delta across the cooler is large, even though the cooler is still the same size. A larger cooler may not be necessary. The problem comes with high ambient temperature applications with high boost. The delta could still be significant because of the difference, but the IAT could still be too high, so a larger core is needed. With all that said, the goal for the cooler is to avoid a heat soak situation, where the max delta doesn't do enough to get the coolant to optimal IATs. While the intercooler radiator can increase in size, the charge coolers in the manifold are fixed in size, so they will only have so much capacity at extracting heat from the charged air. If ambient air is high and target boost levels are high then the system could get heat soaked. In some ways, I don't believe there would be runaway heat soak where IATs dangerously spike because I feel like timing will get pulled before that, which would act to decrease heat production. This would be felt as a drop in power. Without having experienced this myself, I would believe that someone would recognize the situation before timing reached some limit. Regardless, there would be oil temperature spikes before potential engine overheating/failure/preignition, so monitoring oil temps would be good. Taking a look here. Typically staying 15-20C of ambient might be a good goal. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/efi-...erature-limits -------------- If you are referring to engine coolant then it should be maintained to factory specs. Higher IATs from FI could increase heat buildup in the block, but more significantly, high combustion pressures lead to higher temperatures, which will most definitely heat the block. Maxing out the cooling system on the car in a high duty cycle application would mean the engine/coolant will overheat, but it is likely that the oil will have much higher temps at that point. Monitoring both oil and coolant temps are good, but if you have to pick one, I would monitor oil temps because oil takes longer to heat up and is harder to cool down. Also, oil pressures drop when oil temperatures go up, which is also a critical metric. If your oil temps are fine then your cooling system is likely healthy. Also, if the coolant system is overheating then you can remove heat by improving the cooling system through a larger coolant radiator, but it would be more important to add an oil cooler. By cooling the oil, you are removing heat from the system, which may remove the stress on the coolant. It is a matter of how do you want to increase the thermal capacity of the system in the most efficient and effective way. -------------- Cliff notes: Intercooler temps aren't known without a sensor, so you may want to follow IATs, which depend on many factors, but for max power, the goal is to not exceed 15-20 degrees Celsius over ambient temperature. Engine coolant should be the same as stock. Oil temperatures are more critical and should be managed first.
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