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Old 05-23-2020, 03:09 AM   #253
soundman98
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Put a block of wood on the axle shaft and swing harder?
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Old 05-24-2020, 01:20 AM   #254
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Originally Posted by KR-S 86 View Post
Alright, both axle nuts are off, but for fuck's sake, the axle will not separate from my hub. Took a mallet, no luck. Does not seem to budge at all. Do I just need to use more force? Take a big chisel to it?

Sensor is off, hub bolts off, etc, unless I'm missing something really simple. Don't want to give up on this as I don't want to pay a shop to do the rears.

Any suggestions?
Now that these cars are old... hammers/air hammers and pointed tools. Took me like 2 hours to do one side of my 2013 frs recently. Had to remove all the e brake bits and airhammer it apart.
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Old 05-24-2020, 06:18 AM   #255
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Now that these cars are old... hammers/air hammers and pointed tools. Took me like 2 hours to do one side of my 2013 frs recently. Had to remove all the e brake bits and airhammer it apart.
Figured as much; car is four years at this point. I'm gonna assume that bolting the wheel hub back on and removing the axle first won't do me much good?
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:41 PM   #256
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Figured as much; car is four years at this point. I'm gonna assume that bolting the wheel hub back on and removing the axle first won't do me much good?
Is the hub flapping around loose? If so, yeah bolt it back up so you don't waste energy when you hit the axle.

If you don't have an air hammer put the axle nut back on until it's flush with the end of the axle and hit it with a BFH.
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Old 06-21-2020, 05:26 PM   #257
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Nineteen pages of great info.

Can anyone confirm that the Vorshlag "65 mm" can be installed in the front without removing the hub from the car?

I’ve replaced two stock studs now with stock. Quick and easy without taking off anything but the wheel.

The 76 ARP are too long, but seem to be “just” too long to go in without removing anything.

I’ll buy a set of Vorshlag "65 mm" to have at the track in case I break more studs. But if the hubs need to come out anyway, I’ll just go with the ARP instead.

Thanks for the information.

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Old 08-06-2020, 09:22 PM   #258
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Can ARP 76mm long studs be installed in the REAR hubs without removing the hub from the car?
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:02 AM   #259
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Can confirm the the ARP studs can easily be installed on the front once the rotors are removed. The hubs don’t have to be removed from the car.

Still haven’t attempted the rears. That’s what the off (track) season is for.
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Old 10-26-2020, 09:56 AM   #260
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Originally Posted by Four_wheel_drifts View Post
Can ARP 76mm long studs be installed in the REAR hubs without removing the hub from the car?
I don't think you're getting the rears done with them mounted on the car if the replacement studs are longer than stock. When I replaced my rears (with same size studs) I only had to remove the caliper and rotor, and there was a space around the 4 o'clock position where you could line up the stud you wanted to remove/replace without having to remove any other components from the assembly. Anything longer than a stock one isn't going to have the same convenience.
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:40 PM   #261
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I don't think you're getting the rears done with them mounted on the car if the replacement studs are longer than stock. When I replaced my rears (with same size studs) I only had to remove the caliper and rotor, and there was a space around the 4 o'clock position where you could line up the stud you wanted to remove/replace without having to remove any other components from the assembly. Anything longer than a stock one isn't going to have the same convenience.
Yep you have to remove the hub for long studs. I tried on my red FRS for awhile since the hub was rusted in place and didn't found a way around it. That one corner took like 2-3 hours to do, 5 minutes for the stud change, the rest of the time air hammering shit apart...
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:54 PM   #262
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Originally Posted by Four_wheel_drifts View Post
Can ARP 76mm long studs be installed in the REAR hubs without removing the hub from the car?
You aren't getting 76mm installed with the hub on the car.
You can install 63mm(2.5") on the rears with the hub on.
You will have to cut the nipple at the end of the stud off, then they will slide in.
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Old 02-07-2021, 12:54 PM   #263
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This thread has been incredibly helpful for me in replacing my wheel studs, so I thought I'd share my experience as well.

After several stripped or broken studs, I opted to install OEM length replacements from ARP (part number 100-7727, $32 for a five pack from Summit Racing). I was also weary of hammering on my wheel hubs, whether or not the risk of damage was high, and opted for the ball joint separator tool. I picked up the one from Advance Auto (part number W83022, $25), and it worked swimmingly. I didn't need to modify it at all, and it worked to both remove the studs and reinstall the front ones. I'll include a couple of photos below. I also wanted to disassemble as little as possible, not to be lazy (though I am) but to avoid the hassle of rusted on parts (this car is my daily driver in very snowy & salty winters). So I only removed the wheels, calipers and rotors.

I greased the bolt threads on the ball joint separator, and used a 15/16" wrench to turn it (all by hand, no air tools). Went a little slow, maybe 1-1.5 hours total per wheel, but it went smoothly. When removing the studs I used the wider jaw setting on the tool, and when reinstalling the studs I used the narrower setting. On removal, the stud would make a loud popping sound each time it moved, usually two pops before it was free, and by the last wheel I had almost stopped jumping every time it happened.

Pressing the new studs in on the fronts went fine. The tool didn't fit on the rears, so I did the lug nut and washer method there. I used seven 1/2" washers and a new lug nut. I was concerned about over torquing the studs, so I used my torque wrench set to 89 ftlbs to pull the studs in, and somewhat surprisingly it didn't take a huge amount of force, and the wrench never clicked.

Now hopefully I won't have any more problems with the studs. For me it was always when removing a lug nut. It would start to stick rather than come off smoothly and I immediately knew it was done. If it was due to user error, the only thing I can come up with is that I didn't clean off the threads really well before reinstalling, and perhaps a small bit of metal got lodged in there and tore things up. But I never had to meticulously clean threads on previous cars, so I don't know. But regardless, I'll be cleaning the studs and nuts thoroughly from now on just in case.
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