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Old 10-15-2020, 02:28 AM   #43
yzf219
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Originally Posted by TommyW View Post
that is probably too close once the tire starts moving around a bit in turns. You'll most likely rub.
Yea, I am scared of that too, gonna put some masking tape on the strut and take it for a test drive to see if it rubs.

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Old 10-15-2020, 06:46 AM   #44
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Pedders top mounts are an option.
do you have a link for this?
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Old 10-15-2020, 01:22 PM   #45
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Heres what i would have you do

keep the bottom oem bolt in the bottom hole, and put the camber bolt up top and push the top of the wheel in.

I have learned a fair amount about how people run double digit camber. while we are idiots, we're not stupid. they ALWAYS anchor the bottom hole with the bottom oem bolt. you dont want 2 sketchy connections. people running big camber will get their adjustment from the top hole, either slotting inward, or in your case with a camber bolt, but the bottom hole is ALWAYS oem, that is the anchor that we dont mass with.(im not going to bring up FLCA in this thread)

i know some track people use a camber bolt in bottom and skinny crash bolt up top giving you adjustment from both holes but somehow they dont catch flack, realistically its fine, and so is slotted struts, but who am i.

many people do many different things, different bolts in different holes, but i recommend having the bottom be your anchor. hey, im not a fan of slotting struts either, thats why i got the onimade camber plates.

with the oem bottom bolt in the bottom hole, and an eccentric bolt up top, that will give you camber that is appropriate for the ability of most track enthusiasts.
In 150k+ miles I have never had it slip with an upper crash bolt and lower eccentric bolt. I even have a slotted strut for like 100k of those miles. Many on here run the same setup with no ill effect. That doesnt mean they shouldnt be checked regularly. Multiple people have reported slipping eccentric bolts when put in a slotted or larger strut hole like you are suggesting.
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:09 AM   #46
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Can't even imagine what a stiff spring rate would feel like. Yikes.

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Weld the shocks solid.
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Old 10-23-2020, 07:53 AM   #47
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KWs are slotted. My RCE T2s are slotted (revalved KWs). Works just fine, although takes a little more finesse when performing alignment. Probably should use non-cammed factory crash bolts in the slots.

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Old 10-23-2020, 11:35 AM   #48
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do you have a link for this?
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https://www.ftspeed.com/part/580096-...u-toyota-scion

https://pedders.com/products/580096-...-camber-caster
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Old 10-23-2020, 12:58 PM   #49
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I slotted my factory strut to get the camber I wanted. It takes very little material removal to produce measurable camber change. I was only able to get around 2 degrees neg up front with camber bolts, so rather than double up or go with smaller diameter bolts, I just did a little measuring and math and only had to remove like 1/8" of material to get the camber I wanted (~2.9 degrees). Once you tighten the bolt, it's not like the strut is going to move around on the hub - the stress from hitting a pothole will just push the bolt against the end of the slot the same way it does against the factory hole. I've slotted the struts on just about every non-adjustable MacStrut front end car I've ever had. ZERO problems. Just be sure to get it re-aligned after reassembly again to fine tune with the existing adjustable bolt you already have. It isn't rocket science or even difficult to do...just get the math right. You might be surprised how small a change at the strut bolt translates at the wheel. Of course, I'm a little old school, and disappointed by how 'enthusiasts' these days are afraid to tackle anything that isn't 100% bolt-on...
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Last edited by venturaII; 10-23-2020 at 05:50 PM. Reason: Because I'm a curmudgeon...
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Old 10-23-2020, 02:28 PM   #50
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I strongly suggest waiting and getting camber plates...they do come up for sale in the classifieds here fairly often. I got mine from here, put new bearings in and race the hell out of them! I am running Verus camber plates and an SPC camber bolt for -4 up front.
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Old 10-23-2020, 03:52 PM   #51
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FYI negative camber with plates will lower your roll center, haven't figured out how big the impact is on our cars (i.e. -3 via plates vs -3 at the knuckle) but something to keep in mind, especially if your car is already lowered and close to the threshold where bump steer can become noticeable.
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