Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[jkamelo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Why not just get it done remote like the fast majority of the owners that are boosted?

[QUOTE=PulsarBeeerz;3471828]Just let Zach at CSG handle your tune. He's great to deal with and has done hundreds of JRSC FA20. He tuned my SC setup as well a bunch of others here. 100% would recommend.[/]

Yeah, I'll just do this. Thanks.

Originally Posted by new2subaru

Why not just stay CARB legal? That's one of the major appeals to a supercharger.

I don't need to be since I'm not in Cali. Then again, I don't like the uncatted smell...

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by jkamelo

I don't need to be since I'm not in Cali. Then again, I don't like the uncatted smell...

They do stink


There's no point in paying the extra money for a CARB legal supercharger when you can get the same JR kit with the "tune it yourself" option and save 1k

https://jacksonracing.com/product/fr...harger-system/

[spcmafia]

As I plan on getting this kit, I want to get some information as far as what mods are compatible-ish.

First off, going off from the CSG website, which JRSC kit is the one I'm supposed to get? I drive a 2018 Manual BRZ. I see a C30 and a C38, then there CARB tunes, tune it yourself, and factory tuned.

Second, I have a full exhaust with JDL UEL Catted headers, and I quote "Built for Turbo and Boost applications with GESI High Performance EPA Compliant Cat" rated at 500HP with the new GESI Cat. Will this compatible with the JRSC?
Third, Is it possible to tune with OFT? I would still be okay with getting ECUTek and working with CSG.

Aside from an oil cooler, maybe flywheel depending on how pedal happy I get, what other supporting mods are recommended? Other than gauge pods and what not.

I have read here and there that belts tend to snap, any recommendations on that?
How rough is this on a stock suspension, adding more power, as far I can understand, can have effects on the behavior of the vehicle, I am planning on upgrading my suspension too, probably before thinking about pulling the trigger on a supercharger.

I normally pump 93 fuel on the vehicle, I'm assuming is probably best to keep it that way, or is there a benefit to use 91? 85 is out of the question as Connecticut is very scarce, and 85 quality is very questionable. Thanks!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

As I plan on getting this kit, I want to get some information as far as what mods are compatible-ish.

First off, going off from the CSG website, which JRSC kit is the one I'm supposed to get? I drive a 2018 Manual BRZ. I see a C30 and a C38, then there CARB tunes, tune it yourself, and factory tuned.

Second, I have a full exhaust with JDL UEL Catted headers, and I quote "Built for Turbo and Boost applications with GESI High Performance EPA Compliant Cat" rated at 500HP with the new GESI Cat. Will this compatible with the JRSC?
Third, Is it possible to tune with OFT? I would still be okay with getting ECUTek and working with CSG.

Aside from an oil cooler, maybe flywheel depending on how pedal happy I get, what other supporting mods are recommended? Other than gauge pods and what not.

I have read here and there that belts tend to snap, any recommendations on that?
How rough is this on a stock suspension, adding more power, as far I can understand, can have effects on the behavior of the vehicle, I am planning on upgrading my suspension too, probably before thinking about pulling the trigger on a supercharger.

I normally pump 93 fuel on the vehicle, I'm assuming is probably best to keep it that way, or is there a benefit to use 91? 85 is out of the question as Connecticut is very scarce, and 85 quality is very questionable. Thanks!

You need a TIY kit. C30 or C38 is up to you.

You need Ecutek to tune.

The header is compatible with the JRSC, as long as you get the right tune.

You will also need a MAP sensor.

93 only please.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You need a TIY kit. C30 or C38 is up to you.

You need Ecutek to tune.

The header is compatible with the JRSC, as long as you get the right tune.

You will also need a MAP sensor.

93 only please.

Thank you!. What is the difference between C30/C38?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Thank you!. What is the difference between C30/C38?

The size of the supercharger. Get the one matched to your needs. Everyone likes the *idea* of having the extra overhead of the C38, but few ever actually use it.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

The size of the supercharger. Get the one matched to your needs. Everyone likes the *idea* of having the extra overhead of the C38, but few ever actually use it.

You're definitely right. I would just stick with the C30 in that case. I have no intentions of making a lot of power.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

You're definitely right. I would just stick with the C30 in that case. I have no intentions of making a lot of power.

C30 is the way to go for most, and is my personal choice

[dynarun55]

So I finally decided to give my 100k old boxer the JRSC +CSG tune treatment. I finally got around to installing it on Halloween, but couldn't get around to driving until Monday this week. I just had the first iteration of the map. Did a pull in third gear from 2.8k to around 6, and 'explored' around the 3.5k - 6k rpm range in 4th and 5th gear as and when the opportunity presented itself on the drive. Clearly, I was rather eager in my exploration and soon after the boxer started complaining with a rattling noise.

Man, the car had never felt this good before and then the next second, the sound of :brokenheart. After that I went straight home.

Here is the video of it sitting in the driveway and reving up to 5k.

So I have stopped driving it now. Plan is to drain the oil and get the possible glittery bits analyzed. I'm hoping against hope its just rod and the crank.

Current spec:

Stock engine/internals.

JRSC C30 with engine oil cooler. Running pump gas only.

CSG tune.

Xcedy stage 1 clutch.

Stock everything else.

My goal was to put the least amount of stress possible and after having spoking to many wise people I thought this would work. Yet this happened..which is why this hurts so much...
.
Anyone here knows a reputable engine builder in Charlotte, NC area ? And if there is forged internals kit for FA20 please let me know. Trying to keep the cost to a maximum of 3k. So yeah IAG is out of the question at this price point.

I knew this day would come....I'm just heart broken it happened on my second drive. And yes I know I shouldn't have driven that hard,may be... But here I am...asking for help.. Thanks and Cheers!! - Arun

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

So I finally decided to give my 100k old boxer the JRSC +CSG tune treatment. I finally got around to installing it on Halloween, but couldn't get around to driving until Monday this week. I just had the first iteration of the map. Did a pull in third gear from 2.8k to around 6, and 'explored' around the 3.5k - 6k rpm range in 4th and 5th gear as and when the opportunity presented itself on the drive. Clearly, I was rather eager in my exploration and soon after the boxer started complaining with a rattling noise.

Man, the car had never felt this good before and then the next second, the sound of :brokenheart. After that I went straight home.

Here is the video of it sitting in the driveway and reving up to 5k.

So I have stopped driving it now. Plan is to drain the oil and get the possible glittery bits analyzed. I'm hoping against hope its just rod and the crank.

Current spec:

Stock engine/internals.

JRSC C30 with engine oil cooler. Running pump gas only.

CSG tune.

Xcedy stage 1 clutch.

Stock everything else.

My goal was to put the least amount of stress possible and after having spoking to many wise people I thought this would work. Yet this happened..which is why this hurts so much...
.
Anyone here knows a reputable engine builder in Charlotte, NC area ? And if there is forged internals kit for FA20 please let me know. Trying to keep the cost to a maximum of 3k. So yeah IAG is out of the question at this price point.

I knew this day would come....I'm just heart broken it happened on my second drive. And yes I know I shouldn't have driven that hard,may be... But here I am...asking for help.. Thanks and Cheers!! - Arun

Just want to say despite my experience, its been great to work with CSG. Rotrex had a massive shipping mishap in the summer. The customer service were prompt reply to any and all my concerns. The tuning was going great.. Until I had mechanical issues with the engine. So I would still recommend them.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[alphasaur]

Ah man, that fucking blows. Hope you get it sorted! good luck! ~3k is going to be tough as that's near what used engines are going for.

[drew_kar]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Anyone here knows a reputable engine builder in Charlotte, NC area ? And if there is forged internals kit for FA20 please let me know. Trying to keep the cost to a maximum of 3k. So yeah IAG is out of the question at this price point.

In Charlotte, the best Subaru shops are Exclusive Auto Garage and After Hours Racing. I know the individuals who work at/own these shops and they do some fine work.

However, speaking from experience with a current engine build (not FA, but EJ in my STi), for 3k you're far better off getting a used long block from a wrecker. All the parts required to rebuild this engine to OEM spec would be closer to 6k including labor. Anything that runs off oil pressure or has oil that flows through it in the engine will have to be replaced (oil pump, AVCS hardware etc) and definitely adds up at the end.

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by drew_kar

In Charlotte, the best Subaru shops are Exclusive Auto Garage and After Hours Racing. I know the individuals who work at/own these shops and they do some fine work.

However, speaking from experience with a current engine build (not FA, but EJ in my STi), for 3k you're far better off getting a used long block from a wrecker. All the parts required to rebuild this engine to OEM spec would be closer to 6k including labor. Anything that runs off oil pressure or has oil that flows through it in the engine will have to be replaced (oil pump, AVCS hardware etc) and definitely adds up at the end.

Thanks for all the info man. If I go the route of rebuilding this engine to OEM spec, and put the kit the back on...Do I risk blowing the engine out again ? I really thought I was going for the safest route running a JRSC with pump gas. Can someone from CSG comment on this ? I'm kinda dead in the water here , and I bet others would benefit from this info as well.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Just want to say despite my experience, its been great to work with CSG. Rotrex had a massive shipping mishap in the summer. The customer service were prompt reply to any and all my concerns. The tuning was going great.. Until I had mechanical issues with the engine. So I would still recommend them.

First iteration for a Remote E-Tune is usually just you sitting in warm idle and logging or at most a 3K cruise light throttle. Doing a pull on first iteration is pretty rare. Can you clarify what you meant by "exploration"? usually you should stay at closed loop which is about 20-30% throttle until tuner says everything checked out and is safe.

By the sound of your engine it sounds more like spun bearing/rod knock which is more of an oil starvation issue that all FA20s have an issue with. Did you have an oil pressure gauge?