12-26-2020, 12:39 AM | #4005 | |
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Remember don't forget install costs, alignment costs. Its not a cheap thing to do so do it right once. What year is your FRS?
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2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
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12-27-2020, 12:45 AM | #4006 | ||
[jay-kuh-meh-low]
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I’d rather have the adjustability of coilovers and not need it than be stuck with lowering springs and want to upgrade down the line. Plus I just think they’re cool! I also decided to go with the Pilot Sport 4 A/S because while it doesn’t snow here often, it does get cold and I don’t want a summer compound that will turn to brick on a cold day. Thanks for your advice! Quote:
I figured I’d install them myself then get them aligned professionally. It’s a 2016.
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12-27-2020, 05:12 PM | #4007 | |
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__________________
2013 Series 10 FRS #553
RCE T2's, SPC LCAs -4/2.6 camber JDL 4-2-1 EL, FP and OP, Tuned by Zach@CSG on e85 RR Wilwood Front/Rear Sport BBK, Motul 600 Fluid ARC-8 17x9 SX2 GTs 245s/Koing 17x8 v730's 225's |
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01-20-2021, 03:09 PM | #4008 |
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Sorry for the long post.
TLDR: I’m starting to think about prioritizing a differential upgrade, but I could do many other things for differential upgrade type money... Should I be looking into a differential for tight technical B roads fun? Other setup suggestions or cheaper mods to chase first? I’m putting the question here since there is very good setup advice in this thread that I’ve already benefited from. Details: I’ve put 4,000 canyon carving miles on my new to me Performance Pack BRZ in 5 months of ownership. It has become my pandemic escape driving car. Very tight technical “B road”s are my favorite type of driving and are most of those 4,000 miles.. My main gripe is battling with uphill 1st and 2nd gear hairpin traction on exit. My favorite road has multiple switchback/ tighter horseshoe sections with 3-4 hairpins a piece that fry my diff fluid. It is frustrating constantly battling with spinning the inner rear wheel in these sections. I’ve also briefly considered shifter and driveline bushings, I wouldn’t mind a more solid/heavy shifter feel as stock is very light. However, I do love the nimble without being overly harsh ride that the stock bushings on the performance pack provide. Current setup: Maxed out front camber to -2.7(offset top hats and camber bolts), -1.5 camber in the rear Ducted Greddy oil cooler from CSG. Recently switched the factory diff fluid to Motul 300LS to see if it would help... seems to possibly fry a little less in terms of duration but smells worse then the factory fill, and hasn’t made much of a dent in my problem. I’m still on the Primacy HP’s which I love for the driving I’m doing (so many cheap used spares I bought a second set). I like the playfulness at lower speeds, predictable, communicative and reliable. In the future I could see myself signing up for an occasional track day here and there but at the moment I’m more interested racking up canyon miles first, maybe doing car control events and getting driver coaching second with open track days/HPDE being a distant 3rd. Thoughts on next step setup suggestions? |
01-20-2021, 05:22 PM | #4009 | |
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A new diff is a big deal, but it's usually not the first thing people jump into. You've addressed the alignment, which is one of the most important things to do. Whiteline subframe and diff bushing inserts are a good upgrdae to conisder. There's an increase in noise but minimal to no noticeable change in harshness. They won't "solve" your problem but they will add some confidence to the rear end. Our OEM shocks are more designed for a "sporty" feel than outright grip. That is IMO pretty noticeable on tight corners on bumpier roads. EDIT: by this i mean that they are not super great at keeping the tire on the ground. I would definitely recommend some track days and/or auto-x events if you can. Start with that and you'll have a better understanding of what the car is doing and how a diff can improve the driving experience. - Andrew Last edited by Racecomp Engineering; 01-20-2021 at 05:55 PM. |
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01-20-2021, 05:35 PM | #4010 | |
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01-20-2021, 06:29 PM | #4011 | |
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The diff would certainly help make the rear more predictable, but if you're really pushing the car, the rear will step out whether its a 1st gear corner or a 5th gear corner. If you're getting a 1 tire fire (very possible on tight turns), then the LSD is the way to go. CSG could customize an lsd to match the tire(s) you plan on running. |
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01-20-2021, 11:05 PM | #4012 |
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It always smells like burning gear oil when I hit the 3rd-4th hairpin of a driving section.
I typically have the windows somwhere in between cracked and full open depending on how cold it is... Motul 300LS smells particularly shitty, even for gear oil. |
01-21-2021, 12:01 AM | #4013 | |
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But, in a perfect world I would have two sets of tires ... a Michelin PS4S/Hankook RS4 type-ish street grip set of tires when I am running with faster cars and need to keep my ego happy... and a Primacy HP-ish/lower grip set when I don't care very much about carrying speed and I just want the car to feel neutral and engaging even in hairpins. |
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01-21-2021, 03:04 AM | #4014 |
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Is there any benefit, from a handling standpoint to lower a car about 10-15mm from stock height? I notice that *most* springs/coilovers advertise a 15-25mm drop, but I'm unaware if it has any benefits from a handling standpoint (a further lowered COG or less body roll for example) as opposed to aesthetics - what it seems like is that it's more of the latter to me.
I'm on HKS Hipermax GT (6K front, 4K rear) and I've been driving on stock ride height for quite some time - it was raised from an original 25mm drop from the factory coilover setup, though the raise in height was done hastily so I could clear the high ramps in my parking lot when I moved in. I've recently got a set of adjustable endlinks as mine were binding at the new ride height. The car is almost due for its alignment, but I wanted to revisit the ride height to see if I could further improve any handling characteristics without getting into more hardware changes. The car's still a DD so it'll still have to manage those kerbs and speed bumps so a 10 to 15mm drop would be the max it could do. Thanks! Also, here's my current setup: Tyres: Falken Azenis FK510s, will stick with UHP tyres as we get a lot of rain here Front camber: -2 deg. Was planning for -2.5 deg after looking at tyre wear but with the planned lowering I could probably keep this at the same amount Rear camber: Stock at ride height, at the top of my head it should be around -1.25 deg so lowering a little would -ve slightly more Rear toe in: can't recall values but very slight 5mm spacers for slightly wider track. Last edited by Compelica; 01-21-2021 at 03:29 AM. Reason: added current setup |
01-21-2021, 09:27 AM | #4015 | |
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I also run 195 winters which I can roast if I look at them funny but that's not the diff's fault. - Andrew |
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01-21-2021, 09:28 AM | #4016 | |
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- Andrew |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | Compelica (01-21-2021) |
01-21-2021, 03:30 PM | #4017 | |
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Borrow someone's IR camera, or something? Or maybe even a temperature sensor with a data logger Have you considered diff cooling? Have you seen this
? Tried using higher temperature and/or higher viscosity diff oils? A few of my track friends experienced overheating with Motul Gear 300 at the track, and switched to using Motul Gear Competition 75w-140 instead. If the only thing you really need is for the oil to live through one more hairpin on your one-way, that might just be enough to fix the problem for you (assuming currently you only experience problems towards the end of that hairpin-y section). |
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01-21-2021, 03:53 PM | #4018 | |
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Note that they run taller 225/45/17 tires, so subtract 4.5 mm from their numbers if you're on stock tire diameter. Don't forget to have a person in the driver's seat of the car when measuring ride height. |
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