CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The T0 are plenty firm enough for most and are a good match for Michelin PSS. Adjustment is nice to have, but not a must have IMO if the basic valving is good. In terms of performance the T2s would be at the top, and I'd put the T0 and Greddys above the Teins. The Teins are just valved quite soft.

FYI the Greddy coilovers use the same galvanized finish as the ST coilovers and not the inox stainless like RCE and KW. I think you know that but just pointing it out.

- Andrew

Have you guys had experience with the Greddy x KW? Just not a lot out there but they seem like a decent choice for a DD/canyon car that sees the track a few times a year.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by finch1750

Have you guys had experience with the Greddy x KW? Just not a lot out there but they seem like a decent choice for a DD/canyon car that sees the track a few times a year.

No first hand experience. Dyno plots look okay. I would be concerned about not having the KW stainless finish though, at least where I live.

- Andrew

[Benzin]

My stock suspension is toast due to a crash, so I'm looking for a smoother street ride. I have about 69,000 miles on the stock suspension and it is STIFF and ROUGH. Also looking to lower the car, but not too much. I'm not gonna go lower than 2 inches, and may get enkei rpf1's in the future. I drive the car HARD everyday.

What would you recommend for $1,600 and under for the smoothest ride?

[churchx]

2 inches IS lowering much for ours, already rather low cars. Enough to need lot of other parts to fix problems with geometry, eg. roll center adjustment, or longetivity, eg. diff risers for bearings to not fail sooner. It will add up to costs, most probably past your stated budget or you'll need cut budget on coilovers. Also it will make hard to increase DD comfort, if you reduce shock travel that much, especially at that price level. After all, common thing to do with decreasing shock travel is to accompany with stiffer springs, to not bottom out all the time. And unless one still drives within legal limits, driving HARD is possible only on track.

[Benzin]

Originally Posted by churchx

2 inches IS lowering much for ours, already rather low cars. Enough to need lot of other parts to fix problems with geometry or axle angle it causes. It will add up to costs, most probably past your stated budget or you'll need cut budget on coilovers. Also it will make hard to increase DD comfort, if you reduce shock travel that much, especially at that price level. And unless one still drives within legal limits, driving HARD is possible only on track.

Sorry, you misunderstood, I meant to say I don't want to go lower than 2 inches. Main thing for me is DD comfort and to reduce "skipping" when I'm driving hard in the canyons from the suspension being too stiff for the shitty roads. I'm fine with stock height, but would lower only for aesthetic purposes (get a lot of dat wheel gap comments).

[churchx]

Benzin: better keep lowering within 1 inch, if you don't want extra spendings or go for compromises to comfort. Our cars are rather low and have rather short dampers travel even stock. And lowering >1" brings in unwished changes that are needed to fix.

[Benzin]

Originally Posted by churchx

Benzin: better keep lowering within 1 inch, if you don't want extra spendings or go for compromises to comfort. Our cars are rather low and have rather short dampers travel even stock. And lowering >1" brings in unwished changes that are needed to fix.

What LCA and coilovers combo would you suggest to be the best for DD comfort?


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[Pat]

If you're going for comfort you don't want to be too low. If you don't want to be too low you don't need aftermarket lower control arms.

[Benzin]

Originally Posted by Pat

If you're going for comfort you don't want to be too low. If you don't want to be too low you don't need aftermarket lower control arms.

I understand that. Maybe I'll go 0.5-1 lower in the future. My front passenger LCA is bent from crashing into a boulder. (Hit a coyote, and went into a canyon wall) They would have to be replaced anyways. Question is OEM or aftermarket.

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[DarkSideFRS]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

A set of SPC 14mm camber bolts for the bottom hole on the lower strut mount. Move the OEM bottom bolt to the top.

- Andrew

i did this along with SPC LCAs to go with my TRD springs. What alignment specs do you recommend for stability? i was thinking -1.5F and -1.3R camber and 1/32 toe in all around

[churchx]

Pat: but having adjustable LCAs 1) adds adjustment range to not just dial it to somewhat passing numbers in stock overly broad ranges, but allows to get them dialed in precise/even. There is limit to "range" how much can be adjusted with just slacking all bolts, bending/pushing parts, retorqueing them back. 2) makes alignment job much quicker & easier (=if shop does it & is paid by hours, also much cheaper).
And if one later in future changes thoughts on wished alignment (for eg. track purpose) or for different lowering, LCAs will need to be bought anyway. So why not do it Right [tm] and get LCAs from very beginning? Cheapest ones like SPC/Eibach/Whiteline are not really THAT expensive.

[Pointmutation]

Originally Posted by Benzin

Main thing for me is DD comfort and to reduce "skipping" when I'm driving hard in the canyons from the suspension being too stiff for the shitty roads..

I get the skipping on my crappy mountain roads too. Basically I'm loosing traction on the rough patches when the rough happens on a curve. So outside of dropping speed, what's the solution? Softer springs? Lower tire pressures at the expense of wear?

[Christianb]

Hi guys,

Searched this thread for a good DD, canyon car, and track car. Frequency of canyon driving would be every other week and track driving would be every other month or so. My workplace is only 2 miles from my house, and my school is another mile from my work, so my daily drive is not far. The conclusion I have came up with is the following setup. I am just looking for feedback regarding tire wear, comfortability, etc . Coilovers are Fortune Auto 500 Series V5 and I have SPC LCAs in the rear. Im currently running the stock Primacy's, but have some 225/45/17 Goodyear Eagles waiting to be installed and I get a pretty good deal on Federal 595RSRR's if those arent enough grip.

Front Alignment Specs:
Height- -1.2 in
Camber-~3*
Toe- 0
Damper: Soft to mild

Rear Alignment Specs:
Height- -1.0 in
Camber ~2*
Toe: 1/16
Damper:Mild to hard

Thanks!

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Christianb

Hi guys,

Searched this thread for a good DD, canyon car, and track car. Frequency of canyon driving would be every other week and track driving would be every other month or so. My workplace is only 2 miles from my house, and my school is another mile from my work, so my daily drive is not far. The conclusion I have came up with is the following setup. I am just looking for feedback regarding tire wear, comfortability, etc . Coilovers are Fortune Auto 500 Series V5 and I have SPC LCAs in the rear. Im currently running the stock Primacy's, but have some 225/45/17 Goodyear Eagles waiting to be installed and I get a pretty good deal on Federal 595RSRR's if those arent enough grip.

Front Alignment Specs:
Height- -1.2 in
Camber-~3*
Toe- 0
Damper: Soft to mild

Rear Alignment Specs:
Height- -1.0 in
Camber ~2*
Toe: 1/16
Damper:Mild to hard

Thanks!

Spring rates? Stock swaybars?

Alignment looks generally good for good grip while turning, etc - it's where I'd recommend people start for a performance oriented setup. What do you want the car to do differently?