CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[asdf]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Go with the B6 shocks.

- Andrew

Piggybacking off this question -- currently running B6 with TRD springs, would the 2" Raceseng rear top mounts be too much added travel?

Asking purely for economical reasons (can pick up second hand set vs buying new 1" raceseng tops).

edit: b6 w/ trd springs, OEM rear LCA

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by asdf

Piggybacking off this question -- currently running B6 with TRD springs, would the 2" Raceseng rear top mounts be too much added travel?

Asking purely for economical reasons (can pick up second hand set vs buying new 1" raceseng tops).

edit: b6 w/ trd springs, OEM rear LCA

Well you wouldn't gain any travel, you'd just lower the car 2 inches.

Those top mounts are intended for coilovers primarily and I'm not sure I would run them on fixed perch struts (even the 1 inch drop tops).

- Andrew

[8686]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Go with the B6 shocks.



- Andrew

Why do you prefer B6 over B8?

I got the B8 because I assume it suite the shorter spring better than B6! is this true?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by 8686

Why do you prefer B6 over B8?

I got the B8 because I assume it suite the shorter spring better than B6! is this true?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All lowering springs are designed for OEM shocks and still stay captive in the OEM shocks, so there is no need for the B8 with shorter droop travel. There is no advantage.

The B8 probably has shorter internal bumpstops, but I have never opened them up to find out.

The valving is likely the same.

- Andrew

[asdf]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Well you wouldn't gain any travel, you'd just lower the car 2 inches.

Those top mounts are intended for coilovers primarily and I'm not sure I would run them on fixed perch struts (even the 1 inch drop tops).

- Andrew

I'm fairly certain that wouldn't be the case-- the spring seat and contact point at the top wouldn't move, only the "piston" part of the shock would be extended up 1 or 2 inches. @Raceseng has a kit that includes a spring perch for oem size springs

just wondering with the spring/shock loaded with the weight of the car, would there be enough travel to use the 2 inch tops? Could also keep them if I decide to switch to coil overs in the future as well...

http://www.raceseng.com/shock-top-re...u-brz-2013-719

[OkieSnuffBox]

The point of the mounts is to get the car lower, so you leave more travel available in the coilover (which typically have less stroke than OEM-type dampers). IE, not adjusting the collar so low to get the desired ride height resulting in reduced travel/droop and typically smashing off the bump stops all the time ruining the ride/handling.

[asdf]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

The point of the mounts is to get the car lower, so you leave more travel available in the coilover (which typically have less stroke than OEM-type dampers). IE, not adjusting the collar so low to get the desired ride height resulting in reduced travel/droop and typically smashing off the bump stops all the time ruining the ride/handling.

Right-- I know that's the case, but when using lowering springs the stroke is reduced even when using bilsteins or konis since the shock body is the same (ie, you can use oem springs w the b6 shocks, so when using springs that lower the car 1 inch, you lose 1 inch of shock travel vs oem springs)... If I were buying new, I would definitely get the 1 inch tops to make up for the 1 inch drop, just wondering if there's enough stroke to use the 2 inch tops since there is a set for sale

[Racecomp Engineering]

Gotcha, I was thinking about fronts where the spring perch is separate from the upper mount.

Anyway, 2 inches of extra bump travel would almost certainly result in spring bind (meaning more shock bump travel than spring travel) and that would be my first concern. One inch might do it too but I'm not sure.

- Andrew

[Norkoastal]

Originally Posted by Norkoastal

Thinking of swapping a few parts out when the rear SPL LCA's go in. Currently on Tein Street Flexes dropped to Tein spec.


SPL Titanium Rear Traction Arms FR-S/BRZ
SPL TITANIUM Rear Toe Arms FR-S/BRZ/WRX
SPL PRO Rear Endlinks FR-S/BRZ/WRX




Thanks!

Bump it up!

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Norkoastal

Bump it up!

Not really. Make sure the bearings are protected from grime and dirt otherwise they'll wear out and start making noise.

[megamarines]

I'm going to be investing in the full TOM's brace set(minus the rear bumper replacement), how much will this influence daily driving experiences and feeling? I know it'll become much stiffer, but I'm wondering if it would become too much for a comfortable drive here and there. As for track days and hard corners, would it provide more balance with sharper cornering precision? Reviews haven't really helped explain this.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Just bracing? It won't make too much difference.

- Andrew

[djliquidsteele]

SO I installed the Tein Flex Z's last weekend and think I have settled on 5 clicks out in the front and 6 clicks out on the rear. It seems to feel like the car settles in about the same time from to rear.

In my previous setup I was on stock dampers with RCE Yellows. I also have RCE sways bars front and rear. I feel like could oversteer a little easier before which isn't necessarily the best, but now I feel like I'm getting a bit of understeer.

So, my question is, would setting the rear sway bar stiffer or increasing the damping take out understeer better?

[MaximeT]

Originally Posted by djliquidsteele

SO I installed the Tein Flex Z's last weekend and think I have settled on 5 clicks out in the front and 6 clicks out on the rear. It seems to feel like the car settles in about the same time from to rear.

In my previous setup I was on stock dampers with RCE Yellows. I also have RCE sways bars front and rear. I feel like could oversteer a little easier before which isn't necessarily the best, but now I feel like I'm getting a bit of understeer.

So, my question is, would setting the rear sway bar stiffer or increasing the damping take out understeer better?

More rear sway bare or less front. It's the most important setting for understeer vs oversteer.

Damping setting is second order vs sway bare.

If you just want to change corner entry oversteer, you may want more rear damping and less front.
Damping setting will change oversteer/understeer balance when mass transfer is occurring.
When in cornering stady state, it won't change much.