follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Engine Swaps

Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-03-2019, 07:53 PM   #1
Ctoner2653
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Drives: 2019 Civic Si, 2014 BRZ
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Performing FA20 swap with new FA20

So I have a 2014 brz with stock everything, motor unfortunately blew at 60k so I’m doing a swap. This is my first engine swap, as of now she’s nearly ready to be pulled. I believe I just need to unbolt tranny from engine and then pull Manifold off and then the engine mounts. My one question is do I need to hoist the engine before unbolting the tranny or engine mounts? Also since I have a manual trans, do I need to find an engine from a manual trans as well? And finally my brz is a 2014 so I should only use a motor from 16 and below correct? Sorry for the amount of questions I’ve never done this prior. Thanks in advance!
Attached Images
 
Ctoner2653 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 10:19 PM   #2
kt45
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Drives: BRZ 2013 MT
Location: Arizona
Posts: 37
Thanks: 3
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
If you have room where you are pulling it, it would be easiest to pull both at the same time. If you are like me amd have a small garage, I would drop the tranny first and then pull the motor. Will save you time and frustration compared to pulling only the motor.
kt45 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2019, 10:47 PM   #3
Ctoner2653
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Drives: 2019 Civic Si, 2014 BRZ
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
I can’t just pull just the motor with just the tranny in place?
Ctoner2653 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 05:21 AM   #4
FunnyGopher
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Drives: 2015 BRZ Limited
Location: Arizona
Posts: 210
Thanks: 60
Thanked 132 Times in 87 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ctoner2653 View Post
I can’t just pull just the motor with just the tranny in place?
You can definitely pull the motor out of the car separately from the transmission. Unbolt the transmission from the back of the motor. When pulling the motor out, have the front of the motor angled upwards to match the angle of the transmission, so that the motor can slide right off the transmission spline. Pull the motor out of the engine bay. Have a beer because you did it.
__________________
Harrop Supercharger | Delicious Tuning Flex Fuel Kit | ACE Type-A 350 Header + OP | CSG Touring 86 Catback | RacerX Fabrication Catch Can | Jackson Racing Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler | Tuned by Zach from CSG
FunnyGopher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2019, 08:48 AM   #5
ermax
Senior Member
 
ermax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Drives: 2022 BRZ Limited Silver
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,533
Thanks: 882
Thanked 2,047 Times in 1,190 Posts
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
I you just read the manual (google is your friend). But short summery (not in perfect order and probably missing stuff) from memory is:
- Disconnect battery
- Disconnect wiring harnesses and ground wires
- Drop the lower engine cover and manifold
- Depressurize the full system and then disconnect the fuel lines (search YouTube for the zip tie method)
- Drain coolant and disconnect hoses
- Unbolt tranny (7 bolts if I recall and all very easy to reach)
- Disconnect AC and push it to the side.
- Put a bolt back (I think I used a tranny bolt here) in the hole where the AC bolted and wrap it in duct tape to protect the threads. This will be used as a front hook for your lift
- Unbolt the engine mounts from the lower cross member.
- Lift the engine

It’s crazy easy to pull this engine. I followed the manual and when done I spent about and hour just looking everything over to be sure I didn’t forget to disconnect something. All the wiring hardnesses are in one area so it’s just click click click done. You don’t have to pull the radiators or remove the front bumper. The bolts are all very easy to get to. The only pain in the ass is the AC. The lines don’t allow for much movement and you don’t want to bend them. I did all the work alone other than having my 12 yo son hold the AC to the side as I lifted the engine. When the engine was out I used wire to hang the AC in it’s normal resting place so it wasn’t stressing the lines for weeks while I rebuilt the engine. All total it took me about 4 hours. If I did it again I think I could do it in 2.

To answer your question, no you don’t have to support the engine while unbolting the tranny. The engine rests safely on the lower cross member. There is no risk of the engine or tranny dropping on you. The tranny will hang on the tranny mounts but you will want to support it with a jack. I just used the jack from the trunk for that.

I don’t recommend pulling the engine and tranny as one unit. That would be dramatically more difficult. If you want to pull the tranny just drop it out the bottom once the engine is out. That is also an easy task on this car.

Getting the engine back in is more challenging. Plan to have a friend to help with that. You have to yank it around a little to get it lined up and back on the tranny. Still dramatically easier than any other car I’ve dealt with.
ermax is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to ermax For This Useful Post:
brandonblt2 (09-23-2021), mrg666 (09-04-2019)
Old 09-04-2019, 08:56 AM   #6
ermax
Senior Member
 
ermax's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Drives: 2022 BRZ Limited Silver
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,533
Thanks: 882
Thanked 2,047 Times in 1,190 Posts
Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by kt45 View Post
If you have room where you are pulling it, it would be easiest to pull both at the same time. If you are like me amd have a small garage, I would drop the tranny first and then pull the motor. Will save you time and frustration compared to pulling only the motor.


I agree on some engines but not this one. It’s so crazy easy to pull it with the tranny in place. If you pulled it all at once you would have to drain the tranny fluid. Mark and remove the prop shaft. Remove the shift linkage. Remove the tranny mounts. Once all that is done you’d have to figure out how to angle it out without nailing the radiators. You could remove the radiators but that isn’t necessary when pulling the engine without the tranny.

Doing it as one unit would be a massive pain in the ass.
ermax is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2021, 10:30 AM   #7
SDP
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Drives: 2015 BRZ Limited
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 8
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermax View Post
I you just read the manual (google is your friend). But short summery (not in perfect order and probably missing stuff) from memory is:
- Disconnect battery
- Disconnect wiring harnesses and ground wires
- Drop the lower engine cover and manifold
- Depressurize the full system and then disconnect the fuel lines (search YouTube for the zip tie method)
- Drain coolant and disconnect hoses
- Unbolt tranny (7 bolts if I recall and all very easy to reach)
- Disconnect AC and push it to the side.
- Put a bolt back (I think I used a tranny bolt here) in the hole where the AC bolted and wrap it in duct tape to protect the threads. This will be used as a front hook for your lift
- Unbolt the engine mounts from the lower cross member.
- Lift the engine

It’s crazy easy to pull this engine. I followed the manual and when done I spent about and hour just looking everything over to be sure I didn’t forget to disconnect something. All the wiring hardnesses are in one area so it’s just click click click done. You don’t have to pull the radiators or remove the front bumper. The bolts are all very easy to get to. The only pain in the ass is the AC. The lines don’t allow for much movement and you don’t want to bend them. I did all the work alone other than having my 12 yo son hold the AC to the side as I lifted the engine. When the engine was out I used wire to hang the AC in it’s normal resting place so it wasn’t stressing the lines for weeks while I rebuilt the engine. All total it took me about 4 hours. If I did it again I think I could do it in 2.

To answer your question, no you don’t have to support the engine while unbolting the tranny. The engine rests safely on the lower cross member. There is no risk of the engine or tranny dropping on you. The tranny will hang on the tranny mounts but you will want to support it with a jack. I just used the jack from the trunk for that.

I don’t recommend pulling the engine and tranny as one unit. That would be dramatically more difficult. If you want to pull the tranny just drop it out the bottom once the engine is out. That is also an easy task on this car.

Getting the engine back in is more challenging. Plan to have a friend to help with that. You have to yank it around a little to get it lined up and back on the tranny. Still dramatically easier than any other car I’ve dealt with.
I see you said to put a bolt in where the AC was for the front lifting point but what about the second lifting point? I’m going to be pulling my engine this weekend.
SDP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2021, 02:45 PM   #8
B T
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Drives: 15 BRZ, 2003 MR2, '70 Elky, 06 TBSS
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Posts: 516
Thanks: 202
Thanked 203 Times in 142 Posts
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDP View Post
I see you said to put a bolt in where the AC was for the front lifting point but what about the second lifting point? I’m going to be pulling my engine this weekend.
There's a lifting point next to the harness connector near the rear of the engine. Should be able to find it pretty easily.
B T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2021, 08:40 AM   #9
blsfrs
Senior Member
 
blsfrs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Drives: 2013 frs base
Location: central Virginia
Posts: 1,255
Thanks: 2,060
Thanked 1,177 Times in 567 Posts
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Make sure you take off that little air box bracket on the left just in front of the engine. I hit my VVT plug and had to get a new one.
blsfrs is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
CrawFord FA20 Fully Built Swap ScratchMB Engine Swaps 7 09-22-2019 09:59 PM
Question on a WRX FA20 swap into a FRS Stoll_It317 Engine Swaps 6 07-27-2017 05:33 PM
FT: LS2 Swap for FA20 Setup Cross Engine, Exhaust, Bolt-Ons 4 03-24-2015 02:25 PM
WRX FA20 Swap? FT911 Engine Swaps 42 02-24-2015 05:49 PM
4UGSE/FA20 engine or swap? jordydiaz Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum 15 04-04-2012 06:00 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.