FRS/BRZ EPS Motor Coupler Replacement (Rattle Fix)

[Yardzduj]

Originally Posted by ermax

Yeah it can be a bitch to get back on because the ends aren’t perfectly in line so it binds. A c-clamp to snug up that bracket would help the bolt line up better.

If the brake torx screws are loose does it help in adjusting the bracket and removing the bolt ??

My steering column is hanglint with the 2 bolts on the chassis as the bolt won't go in HELP

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Yardzduj

If the brake torx screws are loose does it help in adjusting the bracket and removing the bolt ??

My steering column is hanglint with the 2 bolts on the chassis as the bolt won't go in HELP

I haven’t touched this area of the car in over a year (or when ever I made the DIY). I can’t recall exactly how it’s laid out. I didn’t mess with anything that I didn’t put in the DIY. I do recall it being hard to get back in because the bracket doesn’t line up that easily. What ever you do, don’t force it because it will end up cross threaded.

You could try loosening the torx you speak of but I can’t say if it would or would not help as I didn’t touch that. Can’t hurt to try. Sorry I can’t offer much else. Maybe someone that’s don’t the job more recently would be more helpful. I turned 45 on Friday, the memory isn’t what it used to be. Hahaha

[Yardzduj]

Originally Posted by ermax

I haven’t touched this area of the car in over a year (or when ever I made the DIY). I can’t recall exactly how it’s laid out. I didn’t mess with anything that I didn’t put in the DIY. I do recall it being hard to get back in because the bracket doesn’t line up that easily. What ever you do, don’t force it because it will end up cross threaded.

You could try loosening the torx you speak of but I can’t say if it would or would not help as I didn’t touch that. Can’t hurt to try. Sorry I can’t offer much else. Maybe someone that’s don’t the job more recently would be more helpful. I turned 45 on Friday, the memory isn’t what it used to be. Hahaha

That's okay I will try my luck. Thank you for all your contribution and Happy Belated Birthday

[whatsupemt]

This was not nearly as bad a repair as some of the other people experienced. I am 60 years old and it took about an hour and only because it is a pain in the butt to get under the dash and also get both hands up where need be. I had no problem getting the 14mm bolt all the way out or back in, unlike others. Once lying upside down under the dash I simply used a ball peen hammer to lift the electric motor while I hand started the 14mm bolt.Then switched to a 3/8 drive ratchet with 3 inch extension and short 14mm socket to tighten the bolt. Could probably do the job again in 30 minutes

[sneaky_pete]

I have a rattle in my 86 but sadly (because I want to find the rattle!!) this wasn't my problem. I have done a video on the repair process that should help others. As I didn't have a disintegrated bushing I used one of ermax's pictures to show a failed bush/damper and acknowledged the source of the pic in the video - hope that's OK ermax :0)

video is here:

[tektonklo]

My goodness, I had been living with the rattle for a while thinking it was because I had popped off part of the grill and needed to take the bumper off to pop the clips back in. I finally got around to fixing the bumper and the sound was still there. Dealership wanted $1K to replace the drive shaft.

31K miles on this car. and the rattle started maybe 3-4K miles ago... I don't drive it aggressively or anything. But there has been tons of road construction around me in the last couple years, so lots of driving on those half-paved roads. I don't know if that killed it faster.

Then I found this forum. Thanks so much ermax.
Can someone point me to a tutorial on how we are supposed to give thanks for posts, or tag people? I guess maybe send me a private message. I don't want to pollute this thread with my noob questions

Using a wrench to pull out the bottom bolt while wiggling really made it super quick to do. I used a 13mm open ended wrench to hook under the bolt head.
I did this all mostly while keeping the 14MM nuts at the top basically at their lowest level. This supported the steering column but gave me wiggle room. Pushing on the Power Steering motor while pushing with the wrench popped the bolt out in a few seconds.

To get the blasted bolt back in, I never really got it fully threaded until I started the car and wiggled the steering wheel while lying in the footwell. With the power steering engaged it really does a good job of wiggling everything down there with little effort. (Maybe working on the car with the engine running is unwise. I'm not recommending anyone try it)

I'm pretty pleased I was able to complete the job, as I have some disability issues with my shoulders.

The good news is my rattle is gone!

Tomorrow I'll probably drive by the dealer to show them what I have found. Doesn't hurt right? They wanted $750 for the drive shaft part alone...

I also have lots of dashcam footage that includes the rattle sound if anyone wants I can post that as well. Mine was getting really bad.

[JohnH]

ok, thanks for this writeup its excellent. Also some of the others who have added to it.

2 things. How long do we expect the factory ones to last?

and secondly, what a shitty design...

[tektonklo]

Originally Posted by JohnH

ok, thanks for this writeup its excellent. Also some of the others who have added to it.

2 things. How long do we expect the factory ones to last?

and secondly, what a shitty design...

From reading as many posts as I can read on this, it seems likely that the longevity of that part is dependent on the bumpiness of the roads you drive on. Mine only lasted 30K miles. It seems like the first to report this issue were people in the Philippines and other places with less smooth roads. Looks like you have a 2020, maybe you have an upgraded part? (we can always hope!)

[mx3alltheway]

Thank you so much for making this thread, was much easier to do than first anticipated.
Also Peter's video helped quite a bit too.
Finally got rid of the damn rattle that's been haunting me for two years!


Where i live, they quoted me 7.2K in my currency (4K USD) to change the whole EPSM and that doesn't include labor.. to have it fixed with the 3$ damper and 2 hour elbow grease thanks to this thread.


I can see many struggled with the 14mm bolt when they reinstall it because they twist the column and bend the bracket and that's usually where they cross thread it.. i just left the 2 14mm nut loosened but in place and slowly lowered and moved the column, that allowed the annoying 14mm nut to be easily removed and reinstalled.

[MX-5RACER]

I recently replaced mine and had to fight to get the bolt out and back in as well. I have a manual so I am not sure if the people who are having less of a fight have auto's or not. I ended up taking the bolt and grinding a flat onto the base of the bolt head. This allowed me to get the bolt back in and out of the bracket and clear the brake pedal assembly easily.

[muskasim]

I struggle to get the 14mm flanged bolt out as well. I found that loosening the brake pedal support assembly makes the 14mm flanged bolt out and back in pretty easy.
Remove the red bolts and just loosen the green nuts as below picture.


Slightly pull down the brake pedal support assembly and slide out the 14mm flanged bolt.



When done replace the power steering motor shaft damper, put everything back in, and tighten to the specified torque.

[Stang70Fastback]

Can anyone tell me if this is likely the source of this noise. It came out of nowhere at autocross today. I was sitting in grid and wiggled the wheel and suddenly I had this awful clunk. Car is a 2015 with 115k miles.

What's throwing me off is, first off, I am like 99% sure the sound is coming from the engine bay, and not from inside the cabin, and second, my understanding of this EPS coupler failure is that it results in the steering rattling while driving over rough roads and stuff, but I don't get any of that while driving. I only have this issue when stopped, basically. Once I get above 10 MPH I can't really tell there's an issue.

ALSO, I'm unclear as to what is the best replacement part to get. Seems like the Hyundai part is solid plastic, but then I saw one post in this thread showing a shattered version of that one too. Is there maybe a revised OEM part now that it's been quite a few years?

[hguerrero]

Any clue where this cable under the steering wheel goes? Looks out of place but can’t find the connection.

[geraldjust]

Originally Posted by hguerrero

Any clue where this cable under the steering wheel goes? Looks out of place but can’t find the connection.

Looks like the immobilizer antenna ring. So it goes on the plastic that goes around the keyhole. You should see a connector towards the backside of it.