FRS/BRZ EPS Motor Coupler Replacement (Rattle Fix)

[norcalpb]

I'm having a bit of an issue getting that 14mm flanged bolt out.
@ermax, when you say "rotate" the entire steering assembly, do you mean clockwise or counter? With tha5 bolt in I don't see how the EPS motor can move enough so that the flange of the flange bolt clears the blockage point?

I was able to get it after some twisting. Shockingly my old coupler is still in piece, but I still put the new OEM coupler in.

I also attached a picture of the tabs that get bent and that you’ll want to straighten up before re-installing everything. They were easy to bend back with a small pair of pliers.

[Stomachbuzz]

Originally Posted by Scoob

Another satisfied customer, here. I had replaced my steering rack chasing this down, only to find it was a $6 part and less than 2 hours of work (compared to $200+ and 6 hours).

Yep, that's what I would have ended up doing as well if I didn't find this thread. And replacing a steering rack is a dreadful job.

Originally Posted by Opie

Does this only affect 2013 models? Was something improved in newer models that prevents this from occurring?

I'm also interested. Haven't torn my car apart yet, but I believe this is my issue after reading this thread.
My 2013 only has 58k miles and it started at 44k.
Is this an age related issue? Or mileage/wear and tear? Or simply a defective part?
Is there any sort of recall or TSB for this?
Definitely a semi-serious issue that isn't normal.




Wow...
This really could be what's been driving me absolutely insane for over a year now.
What started as a minor shuddering noise under hard braking has gotten to the point it sounds like my entire steering rack is held in with bolts halfway unthreaded. Banging around aggressively at even the slightest bump.

Literally never something I'd ever find on my own.

[Stomachbuzz]

Is there a significant difference between the Hyundai and the Toyota part?
Why pick one or the other?

[MX-5RACER]

Does anyone have the OEM part number for the Toyota or Subaru part? I cannot seem to find the part number to order it online. I thought there was link earlier in this thread, but it does not give me a part number.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by MX-5RACER

Does anyone have the OEM part number for the Toyota or Subaru part? I cannot seem to find the part number to order it online. I thought there was link earlier in this thread, but it does not give me a part number.

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

Is there a significant difference between the Hyundai and the Toyota part?
Why pick one or the other?

The Hyundai part is all rubber, the Toyota part is a plastic/rubber sandwich. The plastic cracks over time causing the failure we’ve witnessed. Get the Hyundai part, it will last, the Toyota part will just fail again.

There’s no difference in steering feel or feedback between the two parts that I could tell, and I am anal about steering feel, I am one of those assholes that won’t buy an F series BMW because of the electric steering being terrible on them.

[MX-5RACER]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

The Hyundai part is all rubber, the Toyota part is a plastic/rubber sandwich. The plastic cracks over time causing the failure we’ve witnessed. Get the Hyundai part, it will last, the Toyota part will just fail again.

While I appreciate your reply, the failure mode on the OEM part is much better in my opinion than what happens with the Hyundai part. When the OEM part fails, we get a noise and a little play. When the Hyundai part fails, it fails and makes a ton of play.



Also, I would like to keep my car completely legal for STX, just in case I get a wild hair and want to return to the SCCA Nationals this year in Lincoln.

[Stomachbuzz]

what is the star thingy in the middle for?

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Stomachbuzz

what is the star thingy in the middle for?

Support I believe. Like the metal sleeves that slide into poly bushings.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by MX-5RACER

While I appreciate your reply, the failure mode on the OEM part is much better in my opinion than what happens with the Hyundai part. When the OEM part fails, we get a noise and a little play. When the Hyundai part fails, it fails and makes a ton of play.



Also, I would like to keep my car completely legal for STX, just in case I get a wild hair and want to return to the SCCA Nationals this year in Lincoln.

Damn that's gnarly!

We use these couplers at work all the time, I have never seen one fail in that fashion. There shouldn't be any shear force between the legs and the hub of the rubber part. I wonder if the legs failed in compression and just kind of fell apart?

I guess since there are a decent amount of people with the Hyundai part in their twin, time will tell if the Hyundai coupler lasts on our cars. These cars are light and don't have a ton of steering assist, so we may be in a better position, maybe not.

[YamahaR86]

Bump.

Just finished this install. Thanks @ermax and @86Kenshin

Was driving daily and over bumpy roads or reflectors at slow speeds I would get clunks and clanks. Smooth road was fine. Thought my struts were done but I wasn't bouncing around so maybe control arms or something else. Found this thread and gave it a shot, was the issue.

Some tips I would like to add is the steering bolts aren't 12mm but 14mm. I did use a sharpie to align the bolt and took pictures.

The issue I had like many was the 14mm back bolt. Instructions weren't too clear and I was wrestling with it for an hour.

What you want to do is loosen the bolt off the threads, then wiggle the steering/eps while yanking out the bolt. You wiggle it a little bit to angle the bolt. There is a metal plate/tab that blocks the bolt from coming out that's why you wiggle. I marked the metal tab that is blocking it in red and the direction to pull the bolt out in green.

Other than that it was pretty easy. I put on the steering 14mm bolts first to hold it in place while moving the eps/shoving the back bolt back in.

My oem coupler was destroyed as well. The green portion at least.

[alex87f]

I was having an issue with a rattle at the front of the car, which I thought was suspension-related.

After asking on the forum, I was directed to this page and ordered the part of Amayama (appx. 10USD with postage from Japan ), which arrived yesterday, and I installed it last night.

Having an EU-market car, I had a couple of issues not mentioned on this thread yet, so here they are:

-Apparently, EUDM cars have a 7th airbag for the driver's knee, which makes the repair a bit more complicated if you don't feel like disconnecting it. I disconnected the battery for safety's sake, and left the airbag on the side, but it eats up quite a bit of the -already limited- room in the footwell.



-EUDM cars also have a microphone for the stock hands-free phone capability, which sits on the upper part of the steering trim (on the foreground of this picture, not mine):



Its wire is stuck with foam tape under the trim, and goes all the way into the dash with no accessible plug. I kept it connected, but it requires you to keep the gauge cluster trim, hood and upper steering column trim hanging about, which further complicated the job. I'd advise anyone who tries this to remove the radio and disconnect the microphone, so that you can get the trim pieces out of the way.

The old star had just started disintegrating :



New vs. old:



And the new star in place:



Overall, this repair would be relatively easy were it not for *that* EPS bolt. It's hard to remove, but a lot worse to get back in. Of the 3.5 hours this took me, at least one was spent getting the bolt back in.

The good news is, my noise seems to be gone. Further driving will be required to be sure, but I'm cautiously optimistic.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by alex87f

Overall, this repair would be relatively easy were it not for *that* EPS bolt. It's hard to remove, but a lot worse to get back in.

Yeah it can be a bitch to get back on because the ends aren’t perfectly in line so it binds. A c-clamp to snug up that bracket would help the bolt line up better.

[Yardzduj]

Originally Posted by YamahaR86

Bump.

Just finished this install. Thanks @ermax and @86Kenshin

Was driving daily and over bumpy roads or reflectors at slow speeds I would get clunks and clanks. Smooth road was fine. Thought my struts were done but I wasn't bouncing around so maybe control arms or something else. Found this thread and gave it a shot, was the issue.

Some tips I would like to add is the steering bolts aren't 12mm but 14mm. I did use a sharpie to align the bolt and took pictures.

The issue I had like many was the 14mm back bolt. Instructions weren't too clear and I was wrestling with it for an hour.

What you want to do is loosen the bolt off the threads, then wiggle the steering/eps while yanking out the bolt. You wiggle it a little bit to angle the bolt. There is a metal plate/tab that blocks the bolt from coming out that's why you wiggle. I marked the metal tab that is blocking it in red and the direction to pull the bolt out in green.

Other than that it was pretty easy. I put on the steering 14mm bolts first to hold it in place while moving the eps/shoving the back bolt back in.

My oem coupler was destroyed as well. The green portion at least.

Hello all I am following the instructions but I have some questions please help.

Do I have to remove the 2 black bolts as circled in the picture behine the brake switch ??
The only 2 bolts I see are behind the steering wheel
Very confused

Okay I am up to that behind the steering flange bolt but tried everything it won't come out and my brackets are wide open. Please help not able to get that bolt out and bracket are wide and the bolt won't go in and now I have that bolt half out tried clamping it but bolt won't go in the nut help it's worse than before

[Yardzduj]

Guys need your replies. My car is stuck. Did someone manage to remove the bracket with the torx screws? Will that help ?