FRS/BRZ EPS Motor Coupler Replacement (Rattle Fix)

[norcalpb]

Forgot to knock on wood so I think I have this issue now.

Does this sound like the issue to anyone?

I hear it from the engine bay too, but the noise seems much lower than my Pedders front suspension mounts.

[uras300]

^^ I have similar noise coming from lower front passenger side. It only happens when I put it in reverse and turning right though.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

Forgot to knock on wood so I think I have this issue now.

Does this sound like the issue to anyone?

I hear it from the engine bay too, but the noise seems much lower than my Pedders front suspension mounts.

Even after replacing my coupler I still get the thump when turning left/right while stationary so that isn't a definitive test. If you can do 15 - 25MPH over small bumps (I like to test on road reflectors) and not hear knocking then you are probably fine.

[Hayseed]

Originally Posted by Outlander

These additional pictures were very helpful thanks a lot 86Kenshin, and also a big thanks to Ermax for starting the thread. I really think Toyota needs to stock this part for this model. Heck should have been a recall for everyone that has the problem. The dealer said that they would not be able to fix this without replacing the entire EPS motor. The tech that was working on it kinda pointed me in the direction of this topic. (not here specifically)

Update: Got it working thanks again.

Just my small contribution

For a couple of steps in ermax walkthrough that helped me.

Remove column nuts

Using a 12mm socket with extension remove the two bolts which hold the column to the chassis


and

Remove EPS motor

Using a 12mm socket with extension remove the two bolts holding the motor to the EPS unit (Green Line is where the separation is) Which I used a flat head screwdriver to carefully pry open.

Regarding the two "bolts" holding the column to the chassis:

I found they are 14mm "nuts" on bolts as some have said. But also how would everyone rate how hard was it to get those nuts loose? Mine do not budge and I am in danger of rounding the nuts off.

Possible my socket isn't deep enough. Going to get another one to be sure, but I stopped at this point because I'm a bit freaked out the nuts were starting to round. I triple checked I was using a 14mm socket also.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hayseed

Regarding the two "bolts" holding the column to the chassis:

I found they are 14mm "nuts" on bolts as some have said. But also how would everyone rate how hard was it to get those nuts loose? Mine do not budge and I am in danger of rounding the nuts off.

Possible my socket isn't deep enough. Going to get another one to be sure, but I stopped at this point because I'm a bit freaked out the nuts were starting to round. I triple checked I was using a 14mm socket also.

I impacted mine on and off. Didn't try it with a hand tool. If you take the dashboard out you can skip those 2 14s ha.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by uras300

^^ I have similar noise coming from lower front passenger side. It only happens when I put it in reverse and turning right though.

This is almost surely a slightly loose metal undertray. Just go tighten all those 12s and 10s real good.

[Hayseed]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I impacted mine on and off. Didn't try it with a hand tool. If you take the dashboard out you can skip those 2 14s ha.

Thanks, Dave-ROR. I'll try the impact gun also.

Cheers!

[Opie]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

f you take the dashboard out you can skip those 2 14s ha.

Dave-ROR makes a great point, the entire dash comes out pretty quickly (like under an hour) and you can then get the EPS apart without meddling in the floorboard...much easier in my opinion.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by Opie

Dave-ROR makes a great point, the entire dash comes out pretty quickly (like under an hour) and you can then get the EPS apart without meddling in the floorboard...much easier in my opinion.

I don’t know, I did the EPS from underneath in <45min.

[Hayseed]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I impacted mine on and off. Didn't try it with a hand tool. If you take the dashboard out you can skip those 2 14s ha.

Well that was a fail. Impact wrench finished the job rounding off those nuts (one is worse than the other).

They didn't budge.

So I saw someone say that alternative is take the dash out? Meaning instrument cluster?

This is getting disappointing.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Hayseed

Well that was a fail. Impact wrench finished the job rounding off those nuts (one is worse than the other).

They didn't budge.

So I saw someone say that alternative is take the dash out? Meaning instrument cluster?

This is getting disappointing.

They had to be rounded off and/or wrong socket (not deep enough) before hand. I've had those two nuts off and impacted back on a couple times dealing with my track car build and they don't have a mark on them.

Dash is easy really, just a lot of crap to take off. Center console, hvac, radio, a pillar trim, speaker covers, lower dash panels, OBD2 plug, pass airbag, etc.

After doing it a few times it's easy. The OBD2 plug sucks the most. Now my dash is held in with 6 screws.. obd2 sits where hvac was. Makes taking out the dash a 1 minute job

[Hayseed]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

They had to be rounded off and/or wrong socket (not deep enough) before hand. I've had those two nuts off and impacted back on a couple times dealing with my track car build and they don't have a mark on them.

Dash is easy really, just a lot of crap to take off. Center console, hvac, radio, a pillar trim, speaker covers, lower dash panels, OBD2 plug, pass airbag, etc.

After doing it a few times it's easy. The OBD2 plug sucks the most. Now my dash is held in with 6 screws.. obd2 sits where hvac was. Makes taking out the dash a 1 minute job

Yeah, the initial error was a socket not deep enough.

I bit the bullet and headed to the store for an extractor set. Got them off. They are toast, but they are off.

[HimBRZ]

THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! This solved my rattle and steering is like new!
This is what owner forums are for!

[JesseG]

I think I may have this issue on my 2016 FR-S. I hear a small clunking or rattling sound at lower speeds, it sounds like it’s on the drivers side. The steering feel isn’t quite as sharp either. I was thinking it might be something in the suspension, but after reading this I’m not sure. I’m worried about doing this fix and messing up something else. I’m only at 33K miles


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