FRS/BRZ EPS Motor Coupler Replacement (Rattle Fix)

[86Kenshin]

I would like to thank @ermax for his detailed procedure.
I am going to attempt this fix tomorrow and will report back with my feedback.

Just to some up the points I read in the other thread discussing the same issue, so that anybody can read all the required information in one place:

Additional tips:

1- use little bit of grease on the coupler to keep it in place when installing it in the motor.

2- While installing back the 14mm flange headed bolt, be aware not to cross thread it.
You have to hold the unit by the motor to get enough leverage to rotate the whole
unit until the bolt runs through and lines up with the flange nut.
When pulling it apart if you don't pay attention, you will spread that bracket so it
is no longer square and then the bolt doesn’t line up properly when going back in.
If you can get a C clamp vise grip in there to bend the bracket back into shape that
may help.

3- If you release the telescoping/vertical adjustment lever after you've undone the
front two 12mm nuts, the whole wheel end of the column pulls right off the spline,
and you will be in danger to go out of alignment if you did not mark the connection before.
So it's better you telescope the wheel all the way out before you start disassembly.

Alternative way:
Removing that forward chunk of steering column (circled by red in the blow diagram) by playing with the telescoping lever made getting to and reattaching that back bolt way easier.
MARK the connection with a marker so you can get all the splines aligned back in place.
Check diagram pic for more info.

[86Kenshin]

below are some of my notes while I was doing the job:

1- To remove the odometer switch, pry the circled tab at the back of the switch a flat head screw driver.



2- When removing the knee protector pad, there is an Air Bag clip connected to it. To remove the clip, follow the instructions below:





3- To remove the brake light switch connector, push on the circled tab below:



4- Below is a picture showing the notorious 14 mm bolt and why you cannot take it out without rotating the assembly:



5- I found that the 2 nuts holding the steering column were 14 mm and not 12 mm.

[tylargh]

Thanks for this thread, will be attempting this once parts arrive. My '13 has been showing this issue for about a year now and only gets worse. Hoping this solves it.

Edit: Completed successfully and solved the rattling issue I had.

I would recommend removing the seat for this one, you'll want as much room as possible because you're going to be in an awkward position for a long time. Other than that, the instructions were pretty good.

Finally, I would not recommend going with the OEM coupler and instead opt for the KIA one @ermax posted, as I see no sign that it won't just fail again. However, I did install the OEM just out of a habit of buying OEM parts.

[Rican_D]

Thank God for this thread!

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[D-VO]

Just did this yesterday. Noise is gone! Thank You! I did mine with the EPS motor facing up and steering wheel on the floor. The hardest part was getting the horizontal 14mm bolt back in alignment. I put the 2 14mm bolts back on first and that helped align the horizontal one. The job was easier than expected.

[Opie]

Does this only affect 2013 models? Was something improved in newer models that prevents this from occurring?

[Outlander]

These additional pictures were very helpful thanks a lot 86Kenshin, and also a big thanks to Ermax for starting the thread. I really think Toyota needs to stock this part for this model. Heck should have been a recall for everyone that has the problem. The dealer said that they would not be able to fix this without replacing the entire EPS motor. The tech that was working on it kinda pointed me in the direction of this topic. (not here specifically)

Update: Got it working thanks again.

Just my small contribution

For a couple of steps in ermax walkthrough that helped me.

Remove column nuts

Using a 12mm socket with extension remove the two bolts which hold the column to the chassis


and

Remove EPS motor

Using a 12mm socket with extension remove the two bolts holding the motor to the EPS unit (Green Line is where the separation is) Which I used a flat head screwdriver to carefully pry open.

[Thefalls]

Originally Posted by Opie

Does this only affect 2013 models? Was something improved in newer models that prevents this from occurring?

This is what i also want to know.

Apparently its the same EPS unit. I have a facelift model (2017) and i do get the odd rattle when on rough pavement. As mentioned below by some other people.

I think it was described on some AUS forum where the knocking was felt in the clutch pedal (when depressed lightly) while turning the steering wheel left and right. But on smooth roads there is no sound.

Is there is anyone who has opened an EPS unit from the face lifted model?

That would help solve some mystery.

[Opie]

Here is a 2015 with 45k miles I pulled apart...

[86Kenshin]

Would like to report that I did mine yesterday with great success !

Below are some notes I would like to share:

1- I did mine with the motor oriented upwards as advised by @D-VO as I could not rotate the whole assembly to let it face down. There was enough space to ratchet the 12 mm bolt in the back 1 or 2 click at a time.

2- The 2 bolts holding the steering column are 14 mm and need a deep socket.

3- I placed a small pillow on the floor mat to support me while I was lying on my back to reach the top bolt.

4- When taking the 14 mm flanged bolt out, use the open side of a wrench to push it out while twisting the column with the other hand. I managed to take out mine without bending the brackets so no cross threading happened when installing it back. Spraying little bit of silicone where the bolt is touching the top bracket helps too.

5- When installing the 14 mm flanged bolt back, put the 2x14 mm steering column nuts in their place first as advised by @D-VO to help you remove weight off your hands.
I managed to force the bolt in using the open sided end of a wrench while twisting the column in the other hand. Spraying little bit of silicone where the bolt is touching the top bracket helps too.


And again thanks to @ermax for this thread !

[norcalpb]

I’m high mileage and would love to see what mine looks like. I don’t hear rattles from the steering column tho...but maybe there are rattles and I’m just used to them lol.

[Outlander]

Its hard to miss. Mine happened at low speeds 5-30mph especially when hitting small bumps in road. You can also hear it just by wiggling the wheel back and forth at a idle. Sounds like a click when you wiggle wheel. Sounds like something is lose rattling between you and front wheel when driving.

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by norcalpb

I’m high mileage and would love to see what mine looks like. I don’t hear rattles from the steering column tho...but maybe there are rattles and I’m just used to them lol.

Drive on a gravel road at ~15-20mph. It it doesn't rattle then you're fine.

[norcalpb]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

Drive on a gravel road at ~15-20mph. It it doesn't rattle then you're fine.

I've been trying to look for the rattle every day since I made that post and I think I'm good.