Do I need an oil cooler?

[x808drifter]

Engine/Trans/Diff oil temps are different aren't they?

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

I trust the data provided from 949 and FM. FM has data showing both the transmission and differential will hit north of 300 on track. They also developed a stud kit for the trans case to help with strength.

They never did any of those things for the 3 previous generations.

The transmission is garbage, that is known, the trans cooler was an attempt to make it last longer but it makes no difference since the issue is case/shaft flex that leads to bad gear mesh that strips the teeth off. The diff gets hot but so does the twin diff. Regular fluid changes are needed in any track car without additional coolers, NA & NB included as much as people like to ignore it. That said, as mentioned by someone else, the ND has a LOT more power than any of the prior Miatas, of course it needs better cooling.

Stud kit was developed by Mazda Motorsports, for the record. They switched to the SADEV on the Cup cars for a reason... the stock trans doesn't hold up.

I owned an ND for quite a while. I'm familiar with all of the weaknesses and not weaknesses.

[Petah78]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

The transmission is garbage, that is known, the trans cooler was an attempt to make it last longer but it makes no difference since the issue is case/shaft flex that leads to bad gear mesh that strips the teeth off. The diff gets hot but so does the twin diff. Regular fluid changes are needed in any track car without additional coolers, NA & NB included as much as people like to ignore it. That said, as mentioned by someone else, the ND has a LOT more power than any of the prior Miatas, of course it needs better cooling.

Stud kit was developed by Mazda Motorsports, for the record. They switched to the SADEV on the Cup cars for a reason... the stock trans doesn't hold up.

I owned an ND for quite a while. I'm familiar with all of the weaknesses and not weaknesses.

Thank you for this. Aside from the trans, is the ND miata (1 or 2) in general reliable from a track use perspective?

[DocWalt]

Originally Posted by Petah78

Thank you for this. Aside from the trans, is the ND miata (1 or 2) in general reliable from a track use perspective?

Extremely.

I personally *hated* the Brembos, totally worthless upgrade. The Recaros were great at least.

[Blighty]

Originally Posted by DocWalt

I'm familiar with all of the weaknesses and not weaknesses.

lol. nice.

[ruturaj001]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Ima say, probably not. Last-gen didn't need them either IMO. At the very least run an event and see what the oil temps first. Personally, for my track usage (~4x 15-minute sessions per track day), at 272F, I'm fine running 5w30 oil with 3.5+ HTHS.

Which 5W30 are you running? I was running mobil1 extended performance and recently realized that HTHS is 3 for it. I am either switching to euro formula mobil1 or euro formula Pennzoil, at 3.5 and 3.6 respectively. Also considering 0w40 oils. Max I saw was 250F approximately (BRZ gauge).

@Everyone else Sorry to dig up old thread. I think I am at point where I need either thicker oil or oil cooler but not necessarily both(?).

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by ruturaj001

Which 5W30 are you running? I was running mobil1 extended performance and recently realized that HTHS is 3 for it. I am either switching to euro formula mobil1 or euro formula Pennzoil, at 3.5 and 3.6 respectively. Also considering 0w40 oils. Max I saw was 250F approximately (BRZ gauge).

@Everyone else Sorry to dig up old thread. I think I am at point where I need either thicker oil or oil cooler but not necessarily both(?).

I ran Redline 5w30 last year in the '17. This year the '23 has Subaru 5w30 which is probably closer to 3 HTHS... Will likely go with Redline for next oil change, but may stick with Subaru 5w30 if they do the next service.

[Arthur-A]

Originally Posted by ZDan

I ran Redline 5w30 last year in the '17.

Out of curiosity, how did it perform for you? From my personal experience, Redline High Performance is one of the most robust oils you can get.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by Arthur-A

Out of curiosity, how did it perform for you? From my personal experience, Redline High Performance is one of the most robust oils you can get.

Fine, really no differences I could detect, but I like having the higher HTHS Redline 5w30 in there for tracking at high oil temps. Currently have Subaru 5w30 because Subie dealership changed the oil when they inspected and cleared the oil pan and pickup tube of RTV.

[ruturaj001]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Fine, really no differences I could detect, but I like having the higher HTHS Redline 5w30 in there for tracking at high oil temps. Currently have Subaru 5w30 because Subie dealership changed the oil when they inspected and cleared the oil pan and pickup tube of RTV.

RTV cleanup under warranty?

[MrSkubi]

Originally Posted by ruturaj001

RTV cleanup under warranty?

I've had my done on warranty but oh boy what a ride It was to get it done under warranty in EU where those cars are not available for a long time and there is just a handful of them. Long story short I've found RTV sticked to dipstick at around 100km of milage. Reported to dealership and the answear I got from service manager was "we're not touching the oil pan until there are symptoms of engine not working properly". Contacted Toyota Poland, than their master technican for our country and told him about RTV situation all around the world, after nice and reasonable talk with the guy (complete opposite of unhelpfull dealership service manager) I got it done under warranty.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by ruturaj001

RTV cleanup under warranty?

Yup. They quoted $397 to inspect, and when they found some agreed to warranty it, no prob.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by ruturaj001

RTV cleanup under warranty?

I haven't done it, but my dealer said if they find it would be under warranty, and if they don't find any it would be about $650.

[ruturaj001]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Yup. They quoted $397 to inspect, and when they found some agreed to warranty it, no prob.

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

I haven't done it, but my dealer said if they find it would be under warranty, and if they don't find any it would be about $650.

Man that's expensive. I guess, getting short block and replacing engine would be 5-6k? Paying 6-10% is ridiculous compared to chance which seems much lower than that.