MTEC shift springs

[phobos512]

Originally Posted by johnnyfast11

Its like using lube during one of our favorite activities. Wink wink

Torquing head studs?

[1Cor10:23]

There seems to be quite a few methods / sets of tools to get job done. I'm thinking of installing mine this weekend while doing a trans/diff fluid swap. Unfortunately, it will just be on jack and stands as opposed to lift.

Is there a best practice set of tools to use?
@Trap63 to confirm, that's a 27 MM socket + 1/2 to 3/8 convertor + a flex head 3/8 ratchet?

Does the depth of the socket matter? What about torquing afterward - just do it by hand and guess or actually used a torque wrench? The problem for my torque wrenches is that they don't swivel...plus my 3/8 only goes up to 20 lbs.

Thanks!

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

There seems to be quite a few methods / sets of tools to get job done. I'm thinking of installing mine this weekend while doing a trans/diff fluid swap. Unfortunately, it will just be on jack and stands as opposed to lift.

Is there a best practice set of tools to use?
@Trap63 to confirm, that's a 27 MM socket + 1/2 to 3/8 convertor + a flex head 3/8 ratchet?

Does the depth of the socket matter? What about torquing afterward - just do it by hand and guess or actually used a torque wrench? The problem for my torque wrenches is that they don't swivel...plus my 3/8 only goes up to 20 lbs.

Thanks!

I did them on jack stands, it wasn't bad.

The driver's side was easy. I think it was a 10mm hex driver.

The passenger side can be squirrelly. I connected a 27mm socket, 1/2-3/8 adapter, and 3/8 swivel joint and then got them up onto the bolt. Then I snaked two 6" extensions up around the right side of the exhaust and plugged them into the swivel. That let me get the torque wrench down below the car where it had room to work.

Have some isopropyl alcohol and a rag or something to clean old loctite off the threads, both on the bolt and on the transmission. That's what hangs a lot of people up on this install.

[Trap63]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

There seems to be quite a few methods / sets of tools to get job done. I'm thinking of installing mine this weekend while doing a trans/diff fluid swap. Unfortunately, it will just be on jack and stands as opposed to lift.

Is there a best practice set of tools to use?
@Trap63 to confirm, that's a 27 MM socket + 1/2 to 3/8 convertor + a flex head 3/8 ratchet?

Does the depth of the socket matter? What about torquing afterward - just do it by hand and guess or actually used a torque wrench? The problem for my torque wrenches is that they don't swivel...plus my 3/8 only goes up to 20 lbs.

Thanks!

Yeah Mate, about measures for socket those are the right ones. Don't worry about torque, you can close very well without torque. On "stop" you need to make a 2/3 of round as the same you need to do for sparks change.

[xwd]

Just take the front pipe off. It takes about 2 minutes and makes things a lot more accessible.

[1Cor10:23]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

I did them on jack stands, it wasn't bad.

The driver's side was easy. I think it was a 10mm hex driver.

The passenger side can be squirrelly. I connected a 27mm socket, 1/2-3/8 adapter, and 3/8 swivel joint and then got them up onto the bolt. Then I snaked two 6" extensions up around the right side of the exhaust and plugged them into the swivel. That let me get the torque wrench down below the car where it had room to work.

Have some isopropyl alcohol and a rag or something to clean old loctite off the threads, both on the bolt and on the transmission. That's what hangs a lot of people up on this install.

Yup, read your post earlier - makes sense. I'm thinking I'm going to do it by hand with what @Trap63 suggested, get it tight then add 2/3 or so. Problem with the U joints and adding all the extensions is that it messes with the torque tolerance, might not be worth the trouble for a not-so-accurate reading.


@Trap63 - how deep of a socket would be ideal for this job for the 27mm?

[1Cor10:23]

Originally Posted by dwx

Just take the front pipe off. It takes about 2 minutes and makes things a lot more accessible.

going to try my best to avoid this - I'm OCD about reusing exhaust gaskets + anytime I take out a part of my exhaust, my tips always get lopsided Thanks for the suggestion, though.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by 1Cor10:23

Yup, read your post earlier - makes sense. I'm thinking I'm going to do it by hand with what @Trap63 suggested, get it tight then add 2/3 or so. Problem with the U joints and adding all the extensions is that it messes with the torque tolerance, might not be worth the trouble for a not-so-accurate reading.


@Trap63 - how deep of a socket would be ideal for this job for the 27mm?

U-joints and extensions don't change the torque value so long as the rotation of the bolt is still in line with the rotation of the torque wrench. A u-joint is still in that line, it just lets you get around things. What would change the value would be a crow's-foot or offset extension that moves the bolt's rotation away from the rotation of the torque wrench.

A medium depth socket would be fine. The bolt has a crown head on it, but 27mm sockets are pretty big already. You don't need a deep well.

[1Cor10:23]

One last question guys (thanks for all the help so far) - would the length of the ratchet arm come into play if I'm going to remove it with just the socket + a swivel head ratchet? My 3/8 is one of those extendable ones, so its shortest length is about 10 inches.

Thanks!

[1Cor10:23]

Finished install - wanted to write a quick debrief for anyone attempting in future while it's still fresh in my mind. Overall, it took about an hour and half from start to finish. I can see how it can take a lot longer - it all depends on the passenger side piece. I did the whole thing with a 10mm Allen, 27 mm 1/2 drive, 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, and a swivel 3/8 ratchet.

Reinstalling the 27 mm is tricky - do as everyone else suggests and remove all the locate on the bolt threads and do your best on the housing threads.

It's tricky because of the angle - do yourself a favor, use the socket + the adaptor to give yourself some extra length, this will help you better fine tune the angle of the detent as you try to thread it by hand. The detent itself is really stubby and hard to judge the approach angle and whether it is perpendicular to the thread seat.

[FRS Johnny]

Howd you people get the 27mm off? I can't even get it to move..
and no, I dont even lift haha

a reputable shop near me is quoting me $90 to install it...

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by FRS Johnny

Howd you people get the 27mm off? I can't even get it to move..
and no, I dont even lift haha

a reputable shop near me is quoting me $90 to install it...

Take your 27mm socket, put a 1/2-3/8 adapter on it, put a universal joint on that, and then put that up on the bolt by hand. Hold it up there.

With your other hand, feed up two 3/8 6" extensions on the right side of the exhaust pipe, stacked one behind the other. Plug them into the u-joint.

That will let you get a breaker bar or ratchet on it while keeping the bar below the car where you can get some leverage.

Both springs was a 20 minute job. Absolutely do not pay $90 for a shop to do it. I wish I could charge $180 an hour.

[aaguilar3]

I did it with just a 1/2 inch ratchet and a deep socket 27mm i got from harbor freight. It wasn't that bad and i'm no hulk by any means. I guess I got lucky? Just make sure you do your best to clean it once you do get it off and re-install.
@FRS Johnny

[FRS Johnny]

$90 is just crazy. I would never do that.

Didn't think about the u joint. Looks like I'm going back in the garage right now! Hopefully that works!!