2022 BRZ, Scargod's Mod's and Track Upgrades

[Scargod]

I installed external fasteners to my front fascia so the snap-together attachment point to the fender would stop popping apart.
I have a good-sized splitter on the front and the car lowered, and the fascia has been on and off a lot. This fix lets me stop using duct tape to hold the joints together.
Install is easy:
Just remove the fascia and remove the black plastic clip block on each of the fenders by removing the two, recessed #6 bolts. There is one clip that should be squeezed to get it to release. Put the block in place on the fascia and transfer the two bolt hole locations to the facia, and drill holes for longer 6mm bolts. I used 50mm flat-head bolts and countersunk aluminum washers. The tapered aluminum washers are only 1/8" thick. Both pieces of hardware are from McMaster-Carr. Bolts can be bought in a light blue zinc coating. I darkened the heads.
The two longer bolts sandwich everything together using the existing fender nuts.
It's not quick release but it's close, it looks good, and I won't have to worry about the front of the car coming loose again while on track or if I bump a curb or have an off-road excursion.

[Scargod]

Latest mod is the 3.4 pound Shorai LFX24L3-BS12 Extreme Rate Lithium Iron battery.
I used 1/2" thick black Expanded PVC Foam Board (Ebay) to form a base that surrounds the bottom of the battery case. It is screwed in place using existing nuts in the sheet metal where the battery sits. I also use a piece to span the top of the case and distribute the load from the stock top clamp.
This has worked out really well. You just can't leave the battery connected for long periods of time (2-3 weeks) without a trickle charger or the car's electronics will pull it down.

[Scargod]

I've been busy racing! Well, track days... A number of personal bests and laps equal to or better than pole position times for Spec Miata's. This at Thompson and Watkins Glen. New Personal bests at Club Motorsports. My last adventure took me to Pineview Run in Upstae NY near Syracuse. Then an hour and a half drive to Watkins Glen for two days on the first and second of this month. I was running new 255/17 A055's. Nice tires! There my best was a 2:14. There was so much high-powered car traffic that it was hard to get in consistent laps and work on every turn.
All along the car has been amazing and durable.
Check out videos under "Track Days".

[Scargod]

This from my latest track day adventure, a three day event with NER Porsche Club at Club Motorsports.
Just counted that I've done 54 days there since they opened in 2017.

Sure did have fun eating me up some of those Cayman's in the Black/Advanced run group! Managed another 1:44 lap.
For the first time, I ran 255/40-17 Yokohama A055 slicks and by my seventh session I had delaminated the edge of my left front tire. It was qite hot and the track was at 120 part of the time along with not enough camber on the front for these tires and pushing too hard on the slower right-handers caused scrubbing.

Beyond this comment, I may be discussing transmissions at some point, but I have a shot fifth-gear synchro and the shifter is getting vague. Anyone with issues after 30+ track days and 12-15K miles?
I will rebuild it for racing, but in the meantime I need to find me one and get it in. Frustrating that this happened at under 15K miles.

[Pat]

How often have you changed the tranny fluid?

[Scargod]

Originally Posted by Pat

How often have you changed the tranny fluid?

About every 4K miles.
I'm wondering if the synchros are sensitive to the type of oil being used, like one coated with carbon vs one made of bronze.
I used Redline 75-90 full synthetic the last time and it seems I started noticing fifth-gear synchro issues around that time.
I have Motul 75W80 Technosynthese and Royal Purple 75w90 Max Gear I can try.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by Scargod

About every 4K miles.
I'm wondering if the synchros are sensitive to the type of oil being used, like one coated with carbon vs one made of bronze.
I used Redline 75-90 full synthetic the last time and it seems I started noticing fifth-gear synchro issues around that time.
I have Motul 75W80 Technosynthese and Royal Purple 75w90 Max Gear I can try.

I believe you’re correct about the synchros. Using a GL4 only fluid as opposed to a GL4/5 is the way to go in my opinion. Redline makes a few options for gear fluid might want to check the bottle.

I’m not sure anything can really save these transmissions but probably best to use a good GL4 whenever possible.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Scargod

About every 4K miles.
I'm wondering if the synchros are sensitive to the type of oil being used, like one coated with carbon vs one made of bronze.
I used Redline 75-90 full synthetic the last time and it seems I started noticing fifth-gear synchro issues around that time.
I have Motul 75W80 Technosynthese and Royal Purple 75w90 Max Gear I can try.

I suggest change intervals based on usage type, not just distance. Heat will degrade the fluid much more quickly. 4,000 track miles are much different than 4,000 road miles when it comes to tranny fluid.
Also, I believe fresh fluid is much more important that brand of fluid, as long as it meets specs.

[Scargod]

I forgot the corner balancing I did on 6-22-24 after putting the 3.4 pound Lithium Iron battery in the car.
Actual weight in race trim: 2,887 pounds with 170lb driver
Corner balance in pounds: LF 825, RF 769, LR 669, RR 624, LF&RR=50.19%, Front to rear distribution is F 1594/R 1293= 55% in front and 45% in the rear.
So, I've trimmed down the car down to 2,717 pounds with a half tank of gas.
No cutting on the car except for adding the hood vent and a bit off the rear wheel well lips.

[Scargod]

Today I bought a set of KONIG Ultragram wheels in 17X10 48ET for $1,206.82 to my doorstep. Now I have to decide whether to try and fit 275/35 Hoosier R7's on them or something smaller.
Also bought all the SPC suspension bits I was missing, like front lower control arms, Rear trailing arms and upper control arms.

[Scargod]

A tease. 275 R7 Hoosiers on the car. A little KY and everything fit, without external mods to the bodywork.
Tires cost as much as the wheels!
These are KONIG Ultragram's 17"X10", 5X100, Offset 48, Carbon Bronze Metallic. Very light wheels and $1,200 for the set.

[Scargod]

I'm a little further into this by now. I think the 17x10's at +48's are perfect for what I'm trying to do.
In the front I'm aiming for -4.5° camber and >7°on caster. I doubt I'm at -4.5 yet and it's just barely rubbing inside at full compression. I can fix this by removing the fender liner, which is very tempting, or heat and move the plastic back a bit. I can also reposition the brake line and ABS wire to get what I need back there where they protrude into the well.
Outside, I've about a foot long strip of inner lip (in the middle/the axle centerline) that needs to go. If I keep the liner, I'll likely trim the liner back and use tape to secure it since the fender lip isn't going to be doing much for its support.

I'm not as far along in the rear. I haven't removed the spring from the shock. Eyeballing it, I should be okay since I have a fully adjustable solid (no rubber) suspension. I can see cranking everything in a bit so I can clear the fender without going over 3° negative on camber.
I'm really fixated on not going to flares. I don't think I'll have to. It's just going to get a bit more involved and a little more precise on fitment.
I'm moving ahead nicely on front brake cooling. Received the Corvette ducts, and like on my STI, I think I can make them work nicely. They start with a 4" inlet and go down to a 2.5" outlet. The Verus Brake Backing Plate and Duct Kit takes a 2.5" tube.
I ordered two ABS, rectangular dust collection system hoods for 4" hose. I've used them before to create a scooped/funnel-like inlet in the fascia. A little trimming of extraneous sheet metal and moving some wires is all I need to do to make the Vette duct work. Oh (!) and ditching the windshield washer bottle.
The only places where I have rubber left in the suspension is the rear subframe and the steering. I filled the voids in the rear bushing for the diff with epoxy.
I know I'm going to need a fix for the EPS stalling out on me with these huge tires. Not sure what path to go down for that solution.

[Scargod]

"Velox Performance Brake Cooling Kit - 2013+ FR-S / BRZ / 86" or Verus...
I assumed, even though there were warnings that it didn't fit my 2022 BRZ, the first of the Second Gen cars, that they would fit so I bought them anyway. Some minor trimming and the plate fit. By moving the CF duct outward by about 10mm and trimming away the material on the backing plate, for the original mounting point, I got rid of the interference between the duct and the "fat" aluminum knuckle.
I had to drill out the pop-rivets and re-mount the duct.
I also shimmed the plate about an additional 4mm's to move it closer to the rotor. At least for my car I feel like the spacing was too great for the best efficiency for forcing air into the rotor, rather than it escaping around the perimeter of the rotor.
Opening is a little oddly shaped and unfinished, but it's based on using a dust collection part that necks down to the four inch diameter that I need for going into the Vette brake duct.