Wheel Speed Sensor and EVAP associated with Ethanol Percentage

[AussieBRZ]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

The tune was working perfectly fine at the beginning and the car has worked perfectly fine too. I do not have a specific date when it started happening for each, but I was told the EVAP code would not be able to be removed due to the EcuTek update, but it went away for a while as i was finishing up the pump gas side of the tune, then stayed on ethanol once I was able to use it because the power was amazing and I was saving money overall with it.

It is the rear O2 based kit

Ok


If it ran good for a while and nothing changed not tune not hardware


Then the most likely issue is a hardware fault wiring fault bad sensor or similar


If it started happening after a tune upbadte then it's possibly tune related


Can you go back to an earlier revision and see if same issue

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by AussieBRZ

Ok


If it ran good for a while and nothing changed not tune not hardware


Then the most likely issue is a hardware fault wiring fault bad sensor or similar


If it started happening after a tune upbadte then it's possibly tune related


Can you go back to an earlier revision and see if same issue

As soon as the EcuTek dongle gets repaired I will do so and see what happens.

[Bergycheese348]

@FR-S2GT86 & @AussieBRZ

Car battery died last night on a busy road. First time to see the cops behind me and not be handed a ticket lol. Got jumped, went to get a new battery, installed it (just a regular battery for the car, not a LW battery), drove away fine. Might have been right away or not but my dash looked a bit different. No TC/SC/ABS light, and it has been gone since. I will update if it returns, but might have been a battery issue...somehow.

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

@FR-S2GT86 & @AussieBRZ

Car battery died last night on a busy road. First time to see the cops behind me and not be handed a ticket lol. Got jumped, went to get a new battery, installed it (just a regular battery for the car, not a LW battery), drove away fine. Might have been right away or not but my dash looked a bit different. No TC/SC/ABS light, and it has been gone since. I will update if it returns, but might have been a battery issue...somehow.

Unless you had a permanent code in there, disconnecting the battery basically just cleared your codes for you. As long as there are no pending oractive codes, the CEL should stay off. Give it a day or two before you conclude it was the battery that was causing the issue. If it wasn't an old battery that you had in there before, and your battery terminals and cables are in good, uncorroded shape, you might want to have a load test peformed on your alternator.

Unfortunately, the electronics in these cars are really susceptible to low voltage issues. Low voltage can sometimes even cause permanent damage.

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

Unless you had a permanent code in there, disconnecting the battery basically just cleared your codes for you. As long as there are no pending oractive codes, the CEL should stay off. Give it a day or two before you conclude it was the battery that was causing the issue. If it wasn't an old battery that you had in there before, and your battery terminals and cables are in good, uncorroded shape, you might want to have a load test peformed on your alternator.

Unfortunately, the electronics in these cars are really susceptible to low voltage issues. Low voltage can sometimes even cause permanent damage.

I had tried clearing codes countless times before and it had not taken care of the codes, they always popped back on immediately. I forgot to mention but the EVAP code is still there, just the wheel speed sensor code is gone (so no ABS light but still a CEL). Still giving it a little time to see if the battery was the issue, talking to all the OEM testing calibration guys at work we all would not fully see why there would be an association between ethanol number, low battery voltage, and a wheel speed sensor in the most logical reason. Battery was at least 4 years old, and I had battery issues 2 months ago (similar to when the issues arrived) and it went away so I concluded bad connections or something like that. Car does seem to crank less on startups now, should be a very similar CCA.

I had not fully heard of the weird things low battery numbers can do until I talked to the friend who helped me install it talking about the issues he had with a bad battery on his Cobalt a few years ago. Let's hope I can at least retain ABS haha

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

I had tried clearing codes countless times before and it had not taken care of the codes, they always popped back on immediately. I forgot to mention but the EVAP code is still there, just the wheel speed sensor code is gone (so no ABS light but still a CEL). Still giving it a little time to see if the battery was the issue, talking to all the OEM testing calibration guys at work we all would not fully see why there would be an association between ethanol number, low battery voltage, and a wheel speed sensor in the most logical reason. Battery was at least 4 years old, and I had battery issues 2 months ago (similar to when the issues arrived) and it went away so I concluded bad connections or something like that. Car does seem to crank less on startups now, should be a very similar CCA.

I had not fully heard of the weird things low battery numbers can do until I talked to the friend who helped me install it talking about the issues he had with a bad battery on his Cobalt a few years ago. Let's hope I can at least retain ABS haha

So on the Harrop, the evap purge valve is transferred from the bottom side of the stock intake manifold, onto the underside of the supercharger. Is this the same for the TRD? Did you make sure to connect the hoses properly and have you checked it to make sure it's still connected electrically?

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

So on the Harrop, the evap purge valve is transferred from the bottom side of the stock intake manifold, onto the underside of the supercharger. Is this the same for the TRD? Did you make sure to connect the hoses properly and have you checked it to make sure it's still connected electrically?

I have no idea if i had mentioned this before, but we had nowhere to put that one hose (I assume it was the EVAP hose) so we just let it breathe with a filter over top. My buddy who helped me install it has done the same process before and it has worked, and since it was not an issue at the beginning of tuning we thought it was fine. What I am getting at is I think that is the source of that issue. With nowhere to route it, i guess do you have any ideas to somehow prevent that?

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

I have no idea if i had mentioned this before, but we had nowhere to put that one hose (I assume it was the EVAP hose) so we just let it breathe with a filter over top. My buddy who helped me install it has done the same process before and it has worked, and since it was not an issue at the beginning of tuning we thought it was fine. What I am getting at is I think that is the source of that issue. With nowhere to route it, i guess do you have any ideas to somehow prevent that?

Ah, looks like we're narrowing down at least this one issue. The purge valve is designed to purge the carbon canister pressure build-up at certain times under certain conditions. There is a sensor that monitors that pressure and the ECU has to see that pressure to tell the purge valve when it needs to open and for how long. If this system isn't working properly, the ECU will throw a code. Since you have the hose connected to a filter, it can't build up the pressure that the ECU needs to see to begin the purge cycle.

You're probably getting some raw fuel vapor smells coming from the engine bay, huh?

The outlet of the purge valve normally should be routed to the OEM intake at the rear, next to the PCV hose connection. On the Harrop, it is routed up to the intake side of the supercharger after the throttle body, so that it has a vacuum on it at all times while the engine is in operation.

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

Ah, looks like we're narrowing down at least this one issue. The purge valve is designed to purge the carbon canister pressure build-up at certain times under certain conditions. There is a sensor that monitors that pressure and the ECU has to see that pressure to tell the purge valve when it needs to open and for how long. If this system isn't working properly, the ECU will throw a code. Since you have the hose connected to a filter, it can't build up the pressure that the ECU needs to see to begin the purge cycle.

You're probably getting some raw fuel vapor smells coming from the engine bay, huh?

The outlet of the purge valve normally should be routed to the OEM intake at the rear, next to the PCV hose connection. On the Harrop, it is routed up to the intake side of the supercharger after the throttle body, so that it has a vacuum on it at all times while the engine is in operation.

All of that would make sense. Another question I would have if this narrows it down, would ethanol do something different so it does not build up pressure and does not throw a code somehow?

And I would not say it smells like i am getting fuel vapor smells from the engine bay. Standing outside of it there is no smell, and driving it has the same smell as before as it is catless.

Now, because there is no place to run it to at all, what would you suggest I try? Would plugging it up completely solve it?

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

All of that would make sense. Another question I would have if this narrows it down, would ethanol do something different so it does not build up pressure and does not throw a code somehow?

And I would not say it smells like i am getting fuel vapor smells from the engine bay. Standing outside of it there is no smell, and driving it has the same smell as before as it is catless.

Now, because there is no place to run it to at all, what would you suggest I try? Would plugging it up completely solve it?

Okay, I am assuming you have the purge valve still connected to the inlet hose and electrically connected, and the outlet hose is what you have connected to a filter? Thatwould explain why you aren't smelling raw fuel.

You definitely don't want to plug it up completely. Take a look at this picture below of the underside of the Harrop.

1) is where the purge valve mounts.

2) is the hose end supplied by Harrop that connects to the outlet of the purge valve.

3) is where the hose routes to the intake side of the compressor, downstream of the throttle body. Your TRD supercharger should have something similar in design that you can connect to.

[FR-S2GT86]

@Bergycheese348

Got your PM. So why not just tee into the brake booster hose as close to the inlet of the compressor body as possible? It should have vacuum on it at all times. If you notice in the picture I posted above, there are multiple vacuum ports. They are basically all feeding from the same point; the space between the throttle body and the inlest side of the compressor. One is for the bypass valve, one for the brake booster, one for the PCV valve, and one for the purge valve.

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

@Bergycheese348

Got your PM. So why not just tee into the brake booster hose as close to the inlet of the compressor body as possible? It should have vacuum on it at all times. If you notice in the picture I posted above, there are multiple vacuum ports. They are basically all feeding from the same point; the space between the throttle body and the inlest side of the compressor. One is for the bypass valve, one for the brake booster, one for the PCV valve, and one for the purge valve.

Just to clarify, essentially combine the lines together (closest to the compressor of the brake booster line)?

[FR-S2GT86]

Originally Posted by Bergycheese348

Just to clarify, essentially combine the lines together (closest to the compressor of the brake booster line)?

Essentially, yes. But that depends entirely on where your brake booster is acquiring its vacuum source. Some of these cars use a vacuum pump for the source instead of connecting to the manifold. How was yours originally set up before the supercharger install?

[Bergycheese348]

Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86

Essentially, yes. But that depends entirely on where your brake booster is acquiring its vacuum source. Some of these cars use a vacuum pump for the source instead of connecting to the manifold. How was yours originally set up before the supercharger install?

It was connected to the intake beforehand, using the pressure from that. The supercharger also has a spot for the brake booster, which is attached. It is on the adapter between the Tundra TB and the Supercharger housing (if you have seen it, it is the black piece).