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Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum The place to start for the Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 | GT86 |
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#15 |
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#16 | |
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The cheapest fixable ones are usually in the $2k range. Sometimes you'll get lucky with one that doesn't look fixable but is, or one that looks like it's missing a ton of parts but they end up being in the trunk, etc. Most fixable ones are 3-5k before fees. Fees vary based on sales price but figure 1-1.5k for those sales prices above. Newer cars (17+, especially PP cars) tend to go for 6.5-10k, I've watched some go for 12-13 which are just plain stupid buys - there's no way you'll make your money back out of it and fixing one for thousands beyond that and you are sitting a car you could have just bought any day of the week anywhere else with a clean title in terms of cost. All of the ones we've rebuilt have cost 7-9.7k to buy, ship, repair and inspect before they are legal. If you are just building a track car and never intend to register/title/etc it you can save a bit on that rebuild (no inspection fees, no airbag repairs/etc). For parts cars we have spent 1,200-2.5k or so before fees/shipping but those cars would be cost prohibitive to fix. Also for that site shared earlier, only the "SOLD" ones are worth looking at prices. On Approval doesn't mean sold, it means the seller can decide whether or not to sell it and there is counter bidding built into that system so the last auction value may not be the sales price if it does actually sell. I've won the same car several times over with on approval auctions before.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#17 |
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I need to learn how to get past the u-pull-it junkyard stuff. Been dreaming of a track salvage for years.
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#18 |
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I would love to get into this myself, but I feel I would end up just paying someone to do most of the work. Used in poor condition may be my option.
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#19 |
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One that's been abused over time versus one that took a good whack but is otherwise in decent shape... Tough call.
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#20 | |
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Give the suspension and engine components some TLC and you probably have a machine ready for plenty more abuse before it explodes.
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#21 | |
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What about blown engine? There is one in Vancouver right now for 5500, 16’ FRS manual 98k miles. Really clean on the outside. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#22 |
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Oh, God... That makes it too real. Engine rebuild - no problem.
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#23 | |
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Do you really have the time, space, equipment (I mean all the equipment not just a few tools), money and overall the gumption to finish such a project? There are far, far, far, more project cars sitting under tarps or gathering dust in garages than ever get finished.
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#24 | |
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I did purposely buy an engine with a spun bearing to rebuild so I know what I am getting into if I decide to buy something and take that on. There is an auto in the NW sale thread for 6k, needs engine ![]()
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#25 | |
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#26 | |
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It's not that hard......... rebuilding one isn't worth the time unless going with boost.
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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#27 |
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Depends on where the passions lie. I am much more personally rewarded by successfully restoring with meticulous attention to detail than I ever would be with a swap. Would also trust it way more. I think @ermax would agree with me. He seems like a kindred spirit in that sense.
boost schmoost
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#28 | |
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