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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 11-15-2012, 05:47 PM   #29
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Why is everyone concerned about hydro-locking? Where are ya'll driving? In a lake?
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Old 11-15-2012, 05:51 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Spartan65 View Post
I tend to side with Twinz ^^^^ I talked to RHDJapan and I can now get the part. Not sure on the price or shipping. The biggest fault I see in all the intakes currently is the lack of air straightners.

I read the Perrin post Perrin
Jeff talks about how on a 3" intake the MAF Grams per second is lowered due to diameter.


Most of these issues can be tuned out. But why screw with it ( the AFR). I am looking for a solution to a MAF insert that might have built in straightners. I am positive the straightners are in direct corelation to the grams per second the MAF Consume rate is. I left the stock air box on my 06 wagon, I had a drop in filter and a Provo scoop. With a VF39 turbo, Tomei header, and Tanabe full exhaust after my tune I hit 350 WHP and 333 WTQ.
I have though about changing air boxes there are a couple out there that would fit, funny thing about it, they all have air straightners.
And as far as hydro locking this unit up top, I leave that up to the U-Boat commanders.
People who are afraid of hydrolocking probably have never had a true CAI on their cars. I bet you most people have no idea how hard it is to actually get your car to hydrolock. Unless you live somewhere like Seattle where its always raining then you shouldnt get a CAI but any smart person would know how to avoid hydrolocking. It is VERY hard to hydrolock a car. If you decide to try to cross a huge flooded area then you are just asking to get hydrolocked... Like that guy in the BRZ section who tried to go over a flooded area in NY. Which is beyond stupid.

A lot of cars that have CAI wont hydrolock unless you submerge the car into the water. Only an idiot would do that too. I would love to get this duct and add a WORKS drop in filter and a Zeta/Avo silicone tubing. I think all 3 would be VERY nice together. Works claims to add 10 whp and AVO/Zeta both claim about 1-2 whp from changing the tubing. I doubt they would add 11-12 whp to the car but I atleast think that you would see a significant gain then just using the intake duct it self.

Also I believe the Injen gets great gains because of the positioning of the MAF so it kinda tricks the car by leaning it out which isnt really a good way to get more power as I have read. The engineers at Toyota/Subaru spent millions of dollars on engineering this car I doubt they would overlock the air box and just put any sort of design on their. Everything you see from the tubing, bends of the tubing, MAF placement all have a reason in the design. Unlike most intake companies who do very little R&D and throw stuff together to make a sale.

And with a tune this would probably work even better then any intake on the market, even if those got tuned. Atleast for now since the better companies like Perrin are still doing the R&D on their intakes.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:06 PM   #31
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"Ram-Air" was just the first cold-air intake. These days a "Cold-Air" intake is just a smoother intake path.

There won't be any real gains with this. It's before the big restrictions, and the stock intake is already in a cool-air area once the car gets moving.

Now what I do see this doing is keeping intake temps lower when the car is stopped or driving slowly. So there's *potential* for it to get you more consistent runs at an AutoX. But I wouldn't expect much.
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:12 PM   #32
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There are some other silicone intake tubes coming to market very soon, i have 2 of them on the way that i will be reviewing. Zeta and Avo won't be the only ones...
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:22 PM   #33
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How much is this duct?
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Old 11-15-2012, 07:50 PM   #34
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In Japan it's 12,600 yen about 160.00 but by the time I can get it here probably 300.00?

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Old 11-15-2012, 08:09 PM   #35
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I might be in around $200, probably not $300 though.
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:16 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by TwinRz View Post
I think everyone who is saying this type of intake wont work is out of their minds. The OEM air scoop is so small making it bigger like how this intake duct does would definately see a little gain. Just because your other car that had a similar mod didnt perform well doesnt mean this duct will be the same. Different cars man. Its design is very similar to the Syms Intake which got +8 WHP and +10 WTQ. The Syms Intake performed a lot better then a lot of intakes we see available for the FR-S/BRZ. I mean look at the Airaid for example.. it lost power and costs just as much as this. Other cars have VERY nice intakes that are designed to keep the stock air box with fancy carbon fiber that push up the costs to basically where you can pay off half a FI kit.

Vortech is coming out with a S/C that uses the stock air scoop and this upgrade would be a great mod to add to the S/C in the future. If you ever are thinking of upgrading to a S/C this mod would be perfect for you since I am sure you would still be able to use it with Vortechs S/C kit. Their kits intake fits the OEM air scoop. So this would be beneficial for you until you upgrade to the S/C. I will probably be ordering this since I plan to get Vortechs S/C in the future when my warranty is over or that I feel that my car will run fine w/o any TSB's.

I was thinking of getting a Syms Racing Intake but the price is just way too high. I love the design of it but this is very similar to that. The site even states that their really isnt much more power until you get to the higher RPM's which so far seems like almost every intake on the market has been operating for this car. Until I get the Vortech S/C I will probably get this along with a drop in filter like WORKS and an AVO or Zeta silicone tubing. Both of those add 10 and 1 WHP. Hopefully this intact duct, WORKS drop in filter, and either of the silicone tubings will compliment each other nicely.
The vortech fmic would not allow this to fit.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:34 PM   #37
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It's easy enough to accidently drive into deep water after a storm, assuming it's shallow or not even seeing it. I drove a Subaru Sherpa into a flooded dip in the road during a cloud burst and it actually floated to the other side. The engine had cut out, both cylinders ;-) and I cranked it out with the starter in 1st before it flooded the inside.
The point is it can happen anywhere and catch you out.

The other point was that this intake appears to block a large part of the cooling air to the radiators? If it does that's a serious design fault with practical and warranty implications.

Apart from that I like it.
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:52 PM   #38
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It's easy enough to accidently drive into deep water after a storm, assuming it's shallow or not even seeing it. I drove a Subaru Sherpa into a flooded dip in the road during a cloud burst and it actually floated to the other side. The engine had cut out, both cylinders ;-) and I cranked it out with the starter in 1st before it flooded the inside.
The point is it can happen anywhere and catch you out.

The other point was that this intake appears to block a large part of the cooling air to the radiators? If it does that's a serious design fault with practical and warranty implications.

Apart from that I like it.
If you are risking hydrolock the intake wont make a big different, a pool of water is a pool of water; use common sense.

Plenty of the A/C condenser (then rad) is already exposed, this should hardly block any part of the lower grill. @ the people that dont think this would be an improvement.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:01 PM   #39
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If you are risking hydrolock the intake wont make a big different, a pool of water is a pool of water; use common sense.

Plenty of the A/C condenser (then rad) is already exposed, this should hardly block any part of the lower grill. @ the people that dont think this would be an improvement.
Actually you are wrong. Common sense dictates that a bow wave will fill the front cooling intake when you accidently enter a flooded area. The usual intakes are up higher and less at risk of sucking in a lethal dose of water.

If this blocks any of the heat exchangers cooling air it's a bad design.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:28 PM   #40
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[QUOTE=TwinRz;5592
because of Syms intake only changes the front portion of the air box and it gains +8 whp/+10 wtq. Show me another intake that does that right now. It also uses the STOCK AIR BOX, just like this intake duct but the syms is made of carbon fiber so it costs 5 times as much.
[/QUOTE]

Show me an independent dyno test of this intake. So far the only dyno chart I have seen is from the manufacturer's website. I bet Airaids dyno chart showed a gain with their intake also. Same thing with Works. You have to remember that at speed the whole area in front of the radiator is a higher pressure zone because air won't flow as fast throughout the radiator / A/C condenser as will flow through the grill opening. I wonder what the area of the opening in the front of the filter box is compared to the throttle body or the airflow sensor. I wonder which one actually has the smallest cross section. That will tell you where the restriction lies.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:54 PM   #41
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Actually you are wrong. Common sense dictates that a bow wave will fill the front cooling intake when you accidently enter a flooded area. The usual intakes are up higher and less at risk of sucking in a lethal dose of water.

If this blocks any of the heat exchangers cooling air it's a bad design.
Driving through a flooded area is not really an accident, its a decision. Has it been raining around this area? Will I chance it through a body of water? The intake is only about 5in lower.

Much of the radiator can be blocked without consequence, it still gets plenty of flow. Check out some FMIC setups.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:10 AM   #42
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Driving through a flooded area is not really an accident, its a decision. Has it been raining around this area? Will I chance it through a body of water? The intake is only about 5in lower.

Much of the radiator can be blocked without consequence, it still gets plenty of flow. Check out some FMIC setups.
That's like saying a crash isn't an accident, it was a decision. Of course you wouldn't knowingly drive into the water but you might accidently.

5" lower!! You are joking of course?

That's pure assumption on your part based on a safety factor built in but you have no idea what that factor is in 45c ambient temps. Neither do you appreciate the loss of efficiency as the system ages.
There is high pressure in the nose since the heat exchangers restrict the airflow so there is no need to place the intake where they put it. It gains nothing and it puts the engine at risk from water ingestion and overheating.

Bad design, it's as simple as that.

Last edited by sierra; 11-16-2012 at 06:24 AM.
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