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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 06-01-2016, 09:24 PM   #85
renfield90
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Originally Posted by TRDCal View Post
It's a 14 that just rolled over 10k kms. So about 6000 miles. I only drive it seasonally and even then not very much. I'm fine with it if it goes away, like I say the transmission is amazing otherwise, no issues at all. And I don't necessary want some mechanic that gets paid by the job rushing through a transmission replacement but I just don't want to leave it in case it gets worse and i'm out of a warranty.

It's done it since new. Noticed it the first high rpm shift 3-4 after the engine break-in was done.
Break in? What's that?

Yeah mine did it since day 1, eventually disappeared. Transmission's been flawless since, I'm at ~43k miles (~69km) and it hasn't had an easy life. Lots of autocrosses, hard driving, etc.

I looked in the TSB section of the forum briefly and didn't find anything. I would just wait it out unless you're nearing warranty expiration.
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Old 06-01-2016, 11:16 PM   #86
TRDCal
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Originally Posted by renfield90 View Post
Break in? What's that?

Yeah mine did it since day 1, eventually disappeared. Transmission's been flawless since, I'm at ~43k miles (~69km) and it hasn't had an easy life. Lots of autocrosses, hard driving, etc.

I looked in the TSB section of the forum briefly and didn't find anything. I would just wait it out unless you're nearing warranty expiration.
Haha Yah it doesn't really bother me as I'm use to it now. But I just want there to be record so if it gets down to close to end of the warranty and they try and diddy diddle. I'll be covered. Id be happy even if they just tried changing the oil with something decent. Anyways well see.
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Old 06-02-2016, 01:42 AM   #87
misooscar
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It goes away after awhile as many have mentioned b4, I did upgrade to some fancy tranny fluid at 8k, 3rd to 4th going went away at 12k

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Old 06-03-2016, 03:57 PM   #88
Speedy Nick
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Originally Posted by hushypushy View Post
Tried searching...even Googled it. Found nothing.

So, one of the minor "issues" that I've already gotten over is that the transmission basically needs to be shifted perfectly in order to go in smoothly. What I mean is, a lot of cars are pretty forgiving...you push the clutch in, move the lever, release the clutch--no problem.

But with the FR-S, I feel like you really have to make sure the timing of the clutch and shift are perfect. When that's good, there's a beautiful mechanical shift as your reward...but if you do it wrong, you get a crunchy feeling as the car goes into gear.

During normal driving, my transmission is fine. I've gotten adjusted to the timing and I can drive it everywhere without a crunch. BUT! I've recently discovered it won't go into 4th gear correctly if I shift from 3rd at or near redline.

If I rev 3rd out to about 6500 RPM and then shift, I can usually (but not always) get a proper shift. But if I hold on till 7000 or later, it ALWAYS grinds. It's not always the same feeling either...sometimes it almost goes in right, and sometimes it's a nauseating crunch that reminds me of dealing with abused old Honda transmissions.

I know it's easy to blame the driver, but I assure you the problem is not with me. I can start from a roll and get nice clean shifts at redline from 1-2 and 2-3, but then I get the crunch from 3-4.

Any ideas or thoughts? I want to get some feedback to see if anyone else is experiencing this before I just take it in to the dealer.
Gears grind due to combination of below;
- Synchronizers are worn out
- Hub / sleeve gears are worn / wrecked
- Clutch not disengaging properly

Based on your comments, it is not the clutch. If it is the clutch then you will have the issue in all the gears.

It only happens at the red-line or close. Synchronisers act as a "brake" to manage the main / counter shaft speed difference. If the "brake" don't work properly, then the hub / sleeve gears will be damaged, because you are basically smashing a sets of metal teeth into one that runs in different speed. This will further increases the chance of gear to grind.

Changing the oil will do nothing. You need to change your 3rd / 4th synchronizers, gears, and hub / sleeve sets. I'm sorry to hear... get a close ratio gears instead!
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:15 PM   #89
Icecreamtruk
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get a close ratio gears instead!
Where? Tranny options arent great for this car.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:39 PM   #90
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Cusco has one. Try some of the Japanese suppliers!
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