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04-12-2020, 06:06 PM | #1 |
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No Communication!! ECU/ECM/PCM/BCM
So I have a 2013 Scion Frs boosted. I recently had a mishap with installing subs. As i had everything all set up and turned around to look at my radio it was off. my initial thought was that i need to turn my car on to get the radio to turn back on but sure enough as soon as i went to turn the key to start nothing happened. I began to diagnose the problem. The Accessories on the dash were flickering so i decided to just get a new battery (needed a new one anyhow). It stopped the flickering of the accessories lights on the dash but still would not start my car. So i moved onto thinking its either the starter or ignition switch. I Jumped started my starter and sure enough it was not engaging. so i went to autozone and got a brand new starter. After installing the new starter, i attempted to start the car again... nothing happened. So i went out and jumped the new starter. IT ENGAGED finally and started my car up! However, this was the only way of turning on the car as well as roll start. So, my next step was the ignition switch. I replaced it and nothing happened. After this i used a volt meter to send power to the from the ignition switch to the starter. which was working for a awhile but somehow in the process it stopped working. it would do nothing (which makes me think i locked up my car somehow with immobilizer) however i still dont know. i went out to try and jump the starter and it just sat there and cranked the engine. NO SPARK i assume. i have done the whole computer reset method by holding both positive and negative on battery together and i have done the ECU reset by putting a pin in pin 4 and 13 or whatever it is for 30 minutes... nothing. I took it to the dealership and they have no idea all they want to do is throw parts at it. They wanted me to replace the main body ECU but said they dont know for sure if that would fix it. I looked at my ECM motherboard and everything looks fine. Next step for me is to take it to Dynosty down in Kentucky and have them work on it. the last thing i have done here is used my ECUTEK tuner to check my DTC codes. this is what it shows and its all a loss of communication so some how some where something is not talking to each other. something is fried. I am no professional when it comes to this stuff and i thought a could see if you guys would know or have had personal experiences with these problems.
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04-12-2020, 07:44 PM | #2 |
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check yo grounds
check yo fuses
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04-12-2020, 08:36 PM | #3 |
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Reading your post... hurts...
As you were installing audio, your car stopped working, INSTEAD OF CHECKING WHAT YOU HAD DONE, you threw parts at it, that didn't work so you jumped stuff around to make it go until that stopped working. I... have no words... I usually try to be helpful when I post, but I can't even. I feel like putting my head in the microwave. |
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to RZNT4R For This Useful Post: | gravitylover (04-13-2020), soundman98 (04-12-2020) |
04-13-2020, 12:44 AM | #4 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Glock_86 For This Useful Post: | humfrz (04-13-2020) |
04-13-2020, 02:32 AM | #5 | |
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Second off, please don't take your frustration out on ol @RZNT4R. I think you just overloaded his circuits, he is quite knowledgeable and usually is helpful. Thirdly, although it seems you might have complicated the situation, I would suggest (as RZNT4R suggested) that you go back to where you were when you were installing the subs and see if what you did could have started your series of problems. I do hope you get it sorted out. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Will BRZ (04-13-2020) |
04-13-2020, 02:42 AM | #6 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Glock_86 For This Useful Post: | humfrz (04-13-2020) |
04-13-2020, 02:54 AM | #7 |
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Also I would like to mention how awesome it is to get feedback so quick from a forum. I usually have to wait a week or so before hearing anything back in other forums! So I’m glad to be apart of this one! Thanks!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Glock_86 For This Useful Post: | humfrz (04-13-2020) |
04-13-2020, 06:57 AM | #8 | |
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If ecutek can read the vin amd ecu calibration id amd error codes then its talking to the ecu , well the engine ecu anyway |
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04-13-2020, 07:01 AM | #9 |
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The main body ecu unot is not keyed to security so you can jist replace it if you think thats issue, jist get one from wreckers
But first clear the dtc codes and see which ones return. Whwn you clear codes note any modules thtat ecutek says it cannot communicate with Note if your manual ot wont dind auto trans computer so thats ok |
04-13-2020, 09:45 AM | #10 | |
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04-13-2020, 04:57 PM | #11 | |
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https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8374 Manuals above should help Also here are some pictures of the body control from guy fixing one after problem, but yours is likely different issue https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59084 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to steve99 For This Useful Post: | humfrz (04-13-2020) |
04-13-2020, 07:27 PM | #12 |
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Okay so some steps forward here, i checked my main body ecu everything checks out motherboard looks good when I had it out I checked the fuses and I found that am1 was relocated by mistake the controls my accessories,ign,and starter. Guess I did that when I was checking fuses. Anyhow, the car still does not start but my accessories work and there is a click noise every time I move the key to start from the main body fuse box inside. Not sure if that’s a normal thing when turning the key to start or not just trying to eliminate things.
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04-13-2020, 07:40 PM | #13 | |
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04-13-2020, 07:50 PM | #14 |
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Could you explain? Instead of being irrelevant. I’m trying to get an answer on what I’m dealing with as of right now. Again the question is, is the the click a normal thing when turning the ignition is turned to start position. The click is coming from main body ecu fuse box.
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Tags |
#can, #communication, #ecm, #ecu, #immobilizer |
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