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Engine Swaps Discussion of engine swaps. |
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05-31-2022, 05:42 PM | #1 |
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Spun a Bearing at 60k miles
I have an automatic 2013 BRZ and I just got rod knock. I know I have to get it fixed/replaced but my biggest fear is it happening again. From what I've read, this is pretty common with the FA20's, so I am reluctant to trust it again. I've always wanted a little more power out of it and it seems like this could be an opportunity to swap something a little better into it. Can anyone convince me to just get a replacement FA20 or provide me with recommendations for a swap? Prices and technical details welcome, I'm just trying to get an idea of what my options are.
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The Following User Says Thank You to leaforgie For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (06-01-2022) |
05-31-2022, 07:30 PM | #2 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to clio For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (06-01-2022) |
05-31-2022, 08:05 PM | #3 |
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What were the details of how it happened? Were you on a windy road, was it a really hot day, do you know your oil temps, do you check oil levels often, did you do the valve spring recall? were you driving hard etc?
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05-31-2022, 08:58 PM | #4 | |
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First off, a knocking rod is really NOT all that usual with a FA-20 engine. I would suggest you get a second opinion on what may be causing the sound you are hearing. Attach a recording if you can get one, maybe some of the guys can give you a clue. If you want more power, I suggest you buy a different car - I hope you get it sorted out soon. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (06-01-2022) |
06-06-2022, 09:33 PM | #5 |
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FA20 engines arent really when developping big power (FI kits usually) and/or when used at the track by fast drivers or when maintained properly. If yours just spun a bearing out of nowhere on the street, it was probably maintained poorly or treated poorly by previous owner (if its not you).
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06-07-2022, 05:32 AM | #6 |
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I was pulling out of a parking lot when it just stalled at the light (yes I let it warm up before leaving), and I started it up again but on the way home I started hearing the rod knock around 2.5-3k rpm. The past few months I've been commuting 2 hours every week and there have been times where I'm going 90-100 for extended periods, but apart from that oil changes and everything are pretty regular. The incident where it stalled nothing out of the ordinary happened that day, I wasn't driving hard earlier that day and when I was leaving the parking lot it was a cool night maybe 50 - 60F. The two mechanics I've talked to both have said it's the crankshaft bearing and that I am going to have to replace the short block or the entire engine depending on the damage.
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06-07-2022, 02:51 PM | #7 |
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I would consider sourcing a used engine.
That will be the least expensive. A new engine is around 8k. A swap can be done(Kpower K swap comes to mind), but given you mentioned a shop doing the work the cost goes up quite a bit when you have somebody billing you by the hour.. |
06-07-2022, 06:43 PM | #8 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to FrickingReallySlow For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (06-07-2022) |
06-07-2022, 09:11 PM | #9 | |
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The Following User Says Thank You to leaforgie For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (06-07-2022) |
06-08-2022, 08:09 AM | #10 |
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I disagree with the idea that any of these motors that spin bearings must have been abused or neglected. Seems like they are marginal on oil delivery to some of the rod bearings to begin with, IMO maybe 1% of engines with machining tolerances at the "bad end" are just not gonna have a long life regardless of how well maintained.
We lost one at the track at Palmer MA the other day. Driver says he's gonna get a new Subaru shortblock, they're available for $2k! Probably want to get new oil pump and go to lengths to ensure that any nasty metal bets are fully flushed out of the heads. |
The Following User Says Thank You to ZDan For This Useful Post: | Wally86 (06-08-2022) |
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