[Need advice] Problems after new short block install and shop doesn't know what to do

[Panties]

My car has been in the shop for about 8 months now. I brought it in when my engine blew and a new short block was installed, including all the parts they recommended.

After replacing the entire short block with new parts, they found the idle to be really rough and recommended an ECM replacement. After the ECM replacement, they told me it got "a little better" but the issue was still there.

Last week, they tore down the engine to double check but didn't see any issues. They did say that they noticed some "light scoring on the oil pump and timing cover which might be causing some oil pressure issues" but couldn't confirm if replacing it would fix the issue. It was the only thing that they found and said they found no mistakes. They told me that all they can do is reassemble it and hope for the best because they don't know what else to do at this point. Almost every single part of the engine has been replaced at this point.

They've asked me to try asking other shops if they would take my car but when I emailed them they all rejected the vehicle because they don't want to spend time diagnosing another shop's work.

I'm just wondering what happens if the issue still persists? The original bill was 8k but it has racked up to about 11k which is well more than half the car's value. All the parts installed were brand new. Do I just have to pay and take back my car that won't run?

Info that I have for others who want to dive into it:
2013 FRS with new 2013-2016 short block installed. Parts from dealership.

The CEL is on for both intake sprockets even after replacing both oil control valves and cam sensors. They removed the oil control valves to check timing after and the timings were fine. However after reading the data, this is what they found:
- When they read data, the intake sprocket is reading 320 degrees advanced with the engine off.
- The data reads 290 degrees with the engine on
- When the engine is revved the reading stays at 290 degrees, there is no fluctuation.

(I don't have the exact codes that are currently showing, I can ask them)

My thoughts (I'm not a mechanic whatsoever please forgive me if I'm speaking gibberish):
1. They said that "The cams cannot be installed incorrectly, nor can the sprockets." From what I recall, the engraved arrows on each upper and lower sprockets need to be aligned (pointing at each other). Could that be causing the issue?

2. Another thing I suspect may be the oil lines going to the sprockets?

3. Oil pump pressure issues?

Sorry for the long post but I'm kinda at my witts end. I miss my car and can't wait to have it back. Sure some of you guys can relate. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[demasrv]

It sounds to me like they just messed up the timing. Setting the timing on these can be a bit tricky. I'd be surprised if the oil pump is the culprit.

In my experience the OCVs throw codes if you hit the VVT at a higher rpm but otherwise wouldn't cause a rough idle just on an initial start.

As for paying/not paying, that's between what kind of deal you have with the shop and their policies. Better to work something out with them. If you don't pay they'll eventually take the car via a mechanics lien probably. But that can be lengthy and painful for everyone.

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[Panties]

Originally Posted by demasrv

It sounds to me like they just messed up the timing. Setting the timing on these can be a bit tricky. I'd be surprised if the oil pump is the culprit.

In my experience the OCVs throw codes if you hit the VVT at a higher rpm but otherwise wouldn't cause a rough idle just on an initial start.

As for paying/not paying, that's between what kind of deal you have with the shop and their policies. Better to work something out with them. If you don't pay they'll eventually take the car via a mechanics lien probably. But that can be lengthy and painful for everyone.

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Yup.. I think its a timing issue too.. But I'd be surprised if they did it wrong considering they are a place that specializes in subarus. I'll have them double check when they install it.

[soundman98]

I think your committed to working with them at this point.

Sounds to me like they really need to eat some of their labor costs, but don't want to

[blsfrs]

"They removed the oil control valves to check timing after and the timings were fine."



Maybe someone can answer this definitively: Can you actually check the cam timing by just removing the control valves? Or, Would you need to remove the whole timing cover?

[demasrv]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

Maybe someone can answer this definitively: Can you actually check the cam timing by just removing the control valves? Or, Would you need to remove the whole timing cover?

Having set the timing when I replaced my short block, I'm not sure how you could verify it by just yanking the OCVs off. Especially since once you set the first bank (driver's side) and you're turning the engine, the cam sprocket "skips" making the arrows not necessarily point directly at each other.

The first time I tried to set the timing I messed it up and was fortunate it catch my mistake when I was doing one last check before putting the timing cover back on.

[NoHaveMSG]

I am assuming they checked the filters for the OCV in the heads.

Without pictures or codes we are just guessing. Even codes don’t tell the whole story.

[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by demasrv

Having set the timing when I replaced my short block, I'm not sure how you could verify it by just yanking the OCVs off. Especially since once you set the first bank (driver's side) and you're turning the engine, the cam sprocket "skips" making the arrows not necessarily point directly at each other.

The first time I tried to set the timing I messed it up and was fortunate it catch my mistake when I was doing one last check before putting the timing cover back on.

So, the short answer is no. From what I remember from a couple of videos on the subject, you have to know the position of the crank sprocket to set/check the timing. I've done timing belts on "ej's" but was too chicken to try timing an FA20.

[Panties]

Update: Just asked them this morning and they said the timing was one of the first things they checked. I sent them the timing chain installation manual which shows all the key points to look for too.

They recommended the timing cover and oil pump be replaced. I'm thinking maybe debris from my spun bearing contaminated the oil pump?

[demasrv]

You can remove bolts from the back for the timing cover to see the oil pump and inspect the passages. Never heard of someone replacing the oil pump after a blown motor with these though.



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[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by demasrv

You can remove bolts from the back for the timing cover to see the oil pump and inspect the passages. Never heard of someone replacing the oil pump after a blown motor with these though.



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Yeah but the OCV filters are in the head. If you are going to have an issue with oiling causing AVCS to not work, I would think it would be there.

[demasrv]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Yeah but the OCV filters are in the head. If you are going to have an issue with oiling causing AVCS to not work, I would think it would be there.

Yeah that's a good point. They should really check both.

I wouldn't rule out them messing up the timing either the first time around.

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[Panties]

Originally Posted by demasrv

Yeah that's a good point. They should really check both.

I wouldn't rule out them messing up the timing either the first time around.

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Will have them check both! Thank you guys so much! Will update here later this week

[Evil Rocky]

You are probably better going to a different shop. My shop did my whole build from top to bottom and everything was built. Maybe reach out to them since their specialty is fixing other shops mistakes with the FA20

You can message him on Messenger Tony Marchev and let know greg sent you after did my build.