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Old 06-01-2021, 07:23 PM   #15
simpleisbest
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Trailer balance has definitely been a big thing on my mind. Iím leaning towards tires on the car side of the trailer axle, so that there is always weight on the trailer hitch for safety. Tools may vary, fuel jugs get used up, but wheels and tires are a constant.

My track wheels and tires are 44lbs each
the track wheels are about 2 feet from the trailer axle and 4 feet from the hitch
59lbs on the hitch with just wheels on the trailer
0lbs on the hitch with 20 gallons of gas and 50lbs of tool on the opposite side of the axle of the wheels.

Thanks!


I thought I couldnít make that part any more obvious.
Nice! Good to see you are taking that into account!
I'd recommend considering how it balances when unloaded once you get to the track.
One of my past variants was too rear biased when I removed the wheels, so before I unloaded the tires on the front I'd need to use a jack stand on the rear otherwise the front would flip upwards
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Old 06-08-2021, 03:53 AM   #16
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Next step, mounting frame rails.

Iím a big fan of T-slotted framing for prototyping structures, especially if Iím expecting adjustments after assembly. I had a job at one point making things exclusively out of the Bosch Rexroth branded version of this stuff. The only downside is raw material cost, but i decided it was worth the saved time.

So adapting the BRZ subframe holes, that normally have big M14x1.5 bolts going through, to the 1.5Ēx3.0Ē profile with slots for 5/16-18 fasteners.

Layout, measure, CAD, laser cut, quick fit check, weld, and final fit check.

Definitely relearned how much stainless likes to warp. I should probably look into better gas coverage, too much color.

Oh, and found out the control arm bolts are also M14x1.5 and fit great in this case for mounting the extrusion-to-subframe adapters, so I ordered more of those from my local parts department. The normal bolts used for mounting are monstrously long.
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Old 06-11-2021, 12:53 AM   #17
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And like that, I had something that looked like a trailer!
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Old 06-17-2021, 01:44 AM   #18
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I was stricken with an idea, to lock the steering, just use oversized steering rack limiters! So much easier than what I preciously had planned. I also have a template for making 3D printed steering rack limiters now.

Also, new steering rack bellow and instead of the overpriced OEM hose clamps, got stainless single ear clamps from McMaster-Carr for like 1/10th the price. Oetiker 515 or McMaster-Carr 5435K44.
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Old 06-17-2021, 01:49 AM   #19
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OEM nut (normally used on I think the rear suspension strut mounts) and JIS flanged bolts to hold the trailer hitch to the framing.
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Old 06-17-2021, 02:03 AM   #20
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Front mounts for front control arm bushings, made in the typical CAD, laser cut, weld method.
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Old 06-29-2021, 04:32 AM   #21
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Wired up the trailer lighting controller. In the future, I’d like to add reverse lights, aux power, and brakes, but no need for now to meet CA DMV requirements.

Oh, and running power from the battery to the trunk sucks…

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Old 07-14-2021, 04:31 AM   #22
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Did a little more research on lighting. Super useful resource on how trucks and trailers should be marked with both reflectors and lighting: https://www.grote.com/fmvss/

Also i realized I was missing reflectors, so I modified my setup a little. I found some tail lights that look kinda like 2017+ tail lights!

Etrailer.com was great to deal with unlike a previous poor experience with southwestwheel.com.

Lighting list:
2x Optronics STL1211RFHPG - combination tail, brake, signal, reverse light
4x Optronics MCL44RB1 - combination red reflector and illuminated marker
2x Optronics MCL44AB - combination amber reflector and illuminated marker

As usually, measures stuff, made a 3D printed adapter, and got the tail lights to fit on the framing.
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Old 07-14-2021, 12:18 PM   #23
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If you really want to go nuts, use something like a large trailer hitch with an offset for sway control ( but much lighter) to connect to trailer steering to make the trailer track the same as the car. Army did that for a while, but needs a lockout to backup easily.
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Old 07-14-2021, 01:58 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by ls1ac View Post
The HF trailer was 299.
As mentioned strait axel is the most stable way to trailer. Indipendeant tends to sway.
I have assembled several of the HF trailers as a basis for utility and motorcycle hauling. They have worked well.
Somehow I feel this is more of a personnel "I can do it " project.
If you look up trailer independent suspensions you will find that none of them use A arms and all use non-articulating axels.
What would you recommend for this project from Harbor freight
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Old 07-14-2021, 08:35 PM   #25
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What would you recommend for this project from Harbor freight
check the link in post #2. everyone's got a slightly different loadout/organization method, but the overall concept is going to be similar for most.
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Old 07-14-2021, 08:38 PM   #26
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check the link in post #2. everyone's got a slightly different loadout/organization method, but the overall concept is going to be similar for most.
Yea I see HF does not sell this trailer anymore. But there another brand for 350$ now. Found a few guides online. Gonna be a project for next year

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Old 08-07-2021, 10:47 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ls1ac View Post
If you really want to go nuts, use something like a large trailer hitch with an offset for sway control ( but much lighter) to connect to trailer steering to make the trailer track the same as the car. Army did that for a while, but needs a lockout to backup easily.
That would be so cool. Definitely a stretch goal for the future though!
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Old 08-17-2021, 12:35 AM   #28
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Alright! Lighting is working! Also first time using heat shrink solder splices, and even for cheap stuff off Amazon they work great!

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