Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Hurricane Nate]

Originally Posted by Decep

I dont know enough about K&N filters because i've never used them before i installed the Edelbrock, but i'd think the non oiled filter would be a different media.

I could just email Edelbrock and see what they say.

This is the only filter on the K&N site that resembles the filter I received with my kit from a few months ago. Since it uses the sealer grease I really don’t want to open the air box to randomly check it out.

[apatel471]

Has anyone installed the STI PCV valve with this kit? Some people with turbo setups say it's necessary but I haven't seen anyone use it with the Edelbrock kit.

[dmorgan38]

Hi, Spun a rod bearing on my 2013 FRS, Swapping engines and would like to install Edelbrock as I go. After install is complete should I be able to save factory tune and install S/C tune before initial startup? I am confident in my replacement stock engine as well as my ability to install this engine. I however have never attempted to install a Tune. I realize the manual deals with the tune before hand. Thanks for your input.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by toast

The stock PCV line will never see boost in an Edelbrock setup, the connection to the intake is upstream of the blower. This is one of the main reasons that a catch can is a good idea, PCV vapors will go through the rotors and the intercoolers.

Some ppl have changed to the STI PCV. You can check out all the old posts about the teething issues with EBSC. There's also another post by someone that had hesitation issue due to a failed PCV valve but replaced with OEM.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Some ppl have changed to the STI PCV. You can check out all the old posts about the teething issues with EBSC. There's also another post by someone that had hesitation issue due to a failed PCV valve but replaced with OEM.

Was just searching the forums about this yesterday too as I just added a PCV catch can. I am using the stock PCV and the jury still seems out on the need for the STI PCV...

Are their symptoms to look for if I do find myself needing to change it? The car is running fine now, at the moment.

[toast]

The PCV valve does not see boost with an Edelbrock kit. The outlet side of the valve connects upstream of the compressor on the nose of the supercharger, so it is always in vacuum. You do not need an STI valve.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by toast

The PCV valve does not see boost with an Edelbrock kit. The outlet side of the valve connects upstream of the compressor on the nose of the supercharger, so it is always in vacuum. You do not need an STI valve.

[FrickingReallySlow]

See this post.. guy reported mostly hesitation/stuttering.

I actually see this on 1st going downhill in slight traffic with my foot off the pedal. haven't gotten logs yet since it only occurs going slow downhill for some reason. Its like the throttle is doing rapid fire bursts.

Originally Posted by devtec

Hi all,

Don't post much but follow the thread and thought I'd give you all an update on my efforts to address the hesitation issues with my Edelbrock install.

My experience with the S/C began with the rotors seizing on the way back home from the authorized installer here in the Bay Area. Unit was found to be defective, and Edelbrock sent out a new unit which has worked. I have been plagued though by constant hesitation/stuttering problems on throttle tip in (like so many others). The hesitation/stuttering has ranged in severity from severe bucking in first gear, to subtle inconsistency in behavior of throttle tip in, to slightly rough idle, to random hanging of RPMs with clutch in. Never had any codes.

I'm happy to say that I think the issues are finally fixed, and the engine now runs more smoothly than stock. S/C went in at about 9k miles on the car, and I now have 62k. So it's definitely been a matter of persistence. There are many times I thought I had the hesitation licked, but it kept coming back. Hopefully it is now fixed for good.

Below is all I've been through to get to this point:


Vacuum leaks/Seals:
Many vacuum leak checks with a smoke machine
MAF O-ring found to have leak (pinched on original install), replaced with CSG O-ring
Edelbrock bypass actuator found to have leak and replaced
Replaced vacuum line going to bypass valve with smaller silicone tubing
Intake manifold gaskets replaced at the time bypass actuator was swapped

Hardware/Sensors:
Installed revised Edelbrock MAF air flow straightener
Cleaned MAF sensor and wiring harness contacts repeatedly
Replaced MAF sensor wiring harness housing (clip broken by installer)
Replaced MAP sensor with new Bosch part
Replaced throttle body in case it was the TPS sensor
Cleaned and re-oiled Edelbrock air filter
Installed radium dual catch cans with a check valve on the PCV side
Fixed exhaust leaks around the resonator joints on my Milltek exhaust

Tuning/Electrical:
Replaced alternator with high output unit
Installed Cusco ground kit
Edelbrock tunes (garbage)
Delicious tunes (now up to v25)
Delicious D-box

From the above list, the following interventions definitely led to a noticeable initial improvement in smoothness: replacing MAF O-ring, cleaning MAF, replacing bypass valve, installing grounding kit, upgrading alternator, refining Delicious tunes, D-box, and installing catch cans. Of these, the biggest deltas came from replacing the MAF O-ring, adding the catch cans (probably from addressing a subtle vacuum leak, although could be from effective increase in octane), and the Delicious tunes. All the other interventions listed made essentially no difference.

Any success has been transient, as the hesitation always crept back in, albeit subtle. All of the above brought me to about 50k, and I was resigned to accepting the subpar behavior.

In the last 10k miles though, on top of the hesitation, the idle started bouncing, running rough, and even stalling on cold starts. At first I thought the idle issue was random; it would sometimes go away after an ECU reset, or just go away on its own. But then it started persisting even after ECU resets. I found some exhaust leaks which I thought were responsible, and had them rewelded at a shop. This helped intially, but idle issues returned. After about 3 cycles, a pattern of a bouncing idle/stalling happening after long drives (several hours/hundred miles) finally emerged. Something was probably being incorporated into LTFT after the long drive.

A look at the logs showed a STFT of -29%, and MAF sensor readings of over 2 volts.

So I was forced to revisit all this since the car was now unreliable, and something was clearly out of whack. I was really pulling my hair out at this point. Bill suggested it may be a boost leak (loss of post MAF metered air leading to a rich condition), but I could find no S/C leaks.

Since the MAF was acting crazy, I formed a theory that perhaps I overoiled the Edelbrock air filter and fouled the sensor, since I cleaned the air filter at about 50k miles and the erratic idle started shortly after that.

So a few weeks ago I cleaned the MAF again. This led to a temporary reprieve from the hesitation and normal range MAF voltage of about 1.2V. So perhaps the MAF did need a clean. But the bouncing rough idle came back. Inspecting the MAF sensor, I noticed that the O-ring was once again damaged in several places even though I had replaced it with a CSG ring at 33k miles (ID 22mm, OD 26mm, 2mm section diameter, buna nitrile).

The MAF has always been really difficult to place in the Edelbrock intake housing. I was sure that with grease and gentle tapping in of the sensor with a wood block on top of it, I had gotten it to seat properly. Which I had. But inspection of the CSG O-ring at 60k revealed that despite these efforts, there was once again damage to the O-ring even when seated properly (see pics).





Could it once again be an MAF vacuum leak? I think that the Edelbrock intake housing tolerance is different from OEM; it is too small. Moreoever, the buna nitrile is pretty stiff, and I think wore out prematurely because of being overly compressed within the smaller housing diameter.

So I went in search of a more elastic/forgiving O ring that would fit better in the Edelbrock intake housing, and decided to go with silicone since it also has a high temp tolerance (not high anyway in the intake). The disadvantage of silicone is that it has poorer wear characteristics than buna nitrile. But this is not a seal exposed to repeated cycles, so thought I'd try it anyway. Ended up ordering a silicone O-ring from eBay, also at ID 22mm and probably about a 1.9mm section diameter. It definitely felt softer than the OEM/CSG) ring, and appears to have a slightly smaller section diameter.




Greased up the ring nicely, and on install the MAF sensor popped right in with gentle effort. On moving around the sensor it was nice and squishy within the housing, and seemed to have a nice seal.

On startup without ECU reset, the idle was solid. After ECU reset the idle was solid.

Drove a bit. And bouncing idle returned.

Back to researching on the web. Desperate at this point. Symptoms seemed possibly consistent with a bad PCV valve. Doubted this is the culprit. But may as well try since it's cheap. Picked up a new one at the dealer for $25. Old PCV came out easily with a U-joint even though under the supercharger assembly. Old PCV maybe passed the rattle test, but not with a nicely clangy sound. Little bit of oil on inlet so a bit dirty. New one went in easily (teflon tape around threads). Whole thing takes about 3 minutes.


Result? Car now runs really nicely: Idle is solid. Throttle tip in is very, very smooth. Power increased. Curve much more linear. Exhaust quieter. Fuel economy increased. No more hanging RPMs with clutch in. A pleasure to drive.

So, I know enough at this point to not get my hopes up, and that it will take a few thousand miles to know for sure if this is a real fix. Will update here with longer term results. But I recount my experience so you can see what what worked for me and what didn't, and what you may want to try.


TL;DR:

I've thrown a lot of money and effort at trying to solve my Edelbrock hesitation problem. Multiple checks by shops were never able to pinpoint a problem. Did not have CELs. In retrospect it may be a bunch of small issues in aggregate leading to the overall behavior. I think with Edelbrock MAF housing being too small, the O-ring issue is real and likely the case with many cars out there. The fix with a softer silicone ring makes sense, and replacing that costs just a few dollars, as does the PCV. Could it be as simple as these small, cheap fixes? Maybe. I would recommend replacing both of these before digging deeper. Give it a shot and report back. And obviously keep refining your tune.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Just got off the phone with Tony from EB, their main SC tech. He told me some very interesting things about the Filter that everyone has to do apparently.

1. EVERYONE needs to REMOVE the sealant you applied to the airbox seal. They found that it contaminates the MAF sensor and get all sorts of weird behavior (J02 anyone?). The sealant no longer shipped with the kits roughly 1.5 years ago and they're advising everyone to clean it off if you've applied it

2. DO NOT use the OILed version sold on K/N website. ONLY use dried, they switched to using a special EB only dried K/N filter that's painted red (no oil) in 2017. He advised us to use K/N cleaner ONLY then wash with water and then dry in the sun for 2 DAYS! just to be sure because the cotton very easily traps water. Also he said to vigorously shake it to get the water out lol

EB part number is 51-0157
K/N special part number is SP-3737

Again do not use the OIL spray, or sealant. It fucks things up apparently.

Originally Posted by Hurricane Nate

This is the only filter on the K&N site that resembles the filter I received with my kit from a few months ago. Since it uses the sealer grease I really don’t want to open the air box to randomly check it out.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Just got off the phone with Tony from EB, their main SC tech. He told me some very interesting things about the Filter that everyone has to do apparently.

1. EVERYONE needs to REMOVE the sealant you applied to the airbox seal. They found that it contaminates the MAF sensor and get all sorts of weird behavior (J02 anyone?). The sealant no longer shipped with the kits roughly 1.5 years ago and they're advising everyone to clean it off if you've applied it

2. DO NOT use the OILed version sold on K/N website. ONLY use dried, they switched to using a special EB only dried K/N filter that's painted red (no oil) in 2017. He advised us to use K/N cleaner ONLY then wash with water and then dry in the sun for 2 DAYS! just to be sure because the cotton very easily traps water. Also he said to vigorously shake it to get the water out lol

EB part number is 51-0157
K/N special part number is SP-3737

Again do not use the OIL spray, or sealant. It fucks things up apparently.

This is GOLD -- thank you

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

This is GOLD -- thank you

I remember ppl in 2020 said their kits were missing the sealant and went out and bought it themselves and applied it. Hopefully they come back and read this thread.

Also he said that filter takes forever to dry in the sun so if you want a quick clean just have another ordered from Jegs. Don't worry if it turns white (fake red paint)

[Hurricane Nate]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Just got off the phone with Tony from EB, their main SC tech. He told me some very interesting things about the Filter that everyone has to do apparently.

1. EVERYONE needs to REMOVE the sealant you applied to the airbox seal. They found that it contaminates the MAF sensor and get all sorts of weird behavior (J02 anyone?). The sealant no longer shipped with the kits roughly 1.5 years ago and they're advising everyone to clean it off if you've applied it

2. DO NOT use the OILed version sold on K/N website. ONLY use dried, they switched to using a special EB only dried K/N filter that's painted red (no oil) in 2017. He advised us to use K/N cleaner ONLY then wash with water and then dry in the sun for 2 DAYS! just to be sure because the cotton very easily traps water. Also he said to vigorously shake it to get the water out lol

EB part number is 51-0157
K/N special part number is SP-3737

Again do not use the OIL spray, or sealant. It fucks things up apparently.

I guess I’ll get that sealant removed. Thanks for the info.

It would appear that Edelbrock needs to update their install manual, as the manual gives direction to apply the sealant.

Also, trying to source the air filter by the part numbers listed is not easy, as those part numbers always return no results, at least for me

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by Hurricane Nate

I guess I’ll get that sealant removed. Thanks for the info.

It would appear that Edelbrock needs to update their install manual, as the manual gives direction to apply the sealant.

Also, trying to source the air filter by the part numbers listed is not easy, as those part numbers always return no results, at least for me

https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/51-0157/10002/-1

Here ya go. But you should be able to buy just the cleaner from KN (not the oil spray) and clean your old one too. This one is kinda pricy

[CallmeDave]

My setup has been running fine for two years but now I’ve got a P0171 and C1201 CEL
Only at idle at a long stoplight or such. Car seems to be running fine though.
I thought it was related to an exhaust leak I had at the over pipe but I’ve fixed that.
Before that I’ve noticed for a while while going from first to reverse sometimes it hangs at 2k rpms….idk if it’s related.
I have the old 3 bolt bypass

Sorry guess I searched and didn’t see exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks for your guys help, if this thread wasn’t here I don’t think I would of bought a SC.

Well I guess I should of read more posts ha. I did the test and I can’t pull vacuum on my bypass valve. Been calling edelbrock all day and can’t get ahold of anyone.

Is the car safe enough to drive home? (driving nicely of course)