Why can't I get more than 3.25* of camber with CasCam and eccentric bolts?

[marco_mc22]

Originally Posted by Pat

Thanks, Marco. Great info! The top of the plate clearly goes all the way in. If this is indeed the problem would that still be possible?

Well I don’t know...

Personally I’d try using lower hole camber bolts + upper factory crash bolts, from my experience lower camber bolts (spc or powerflex) give you a bit more camber.
If you don’t want two thinner bolts holding your strut to the knuckle I think you should make a custom upper spring perch but you will loose some bump travel to have enough clearance and it’s not the best idea with those monotube dampers.

[wparsons]

Don't run double lobed bolts, just get the SPC lobed bolts for the lower hole and put the stock lower bolt in the upper hole. I have that combination with KW V3's (slotted upper hole) and was able to get to -3.8* with stock upper mounts (not offset like pedders or whiteline).


Are you positive the lobed bolt is adjusted correctly?

[Pat]

If I remember correctly I have SPC bolts up top and stock ones below. Will swapping them get me more camber?
I've had two different shops align it and they came up with the same result. The last guy that worked on it specifically said regardless of which direction he turned the bolt it gave him less camber. This was while I was sitting in the driver's seat up on the rack. He even went to his so-called "plan B" and removed the wheel in an effort to do something different.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Pat

If I remember correctly I have SPC bolts up top and stock ones below. Will swapping them get me more camber?
I've had two different shops align it and they came up with the same result. The last guy that worked on it specifically said regardless of which direction he turned the bolt it gave him less camber. This was while I was sitting in the driver's seat up on the rack. He even went to his so-called "plan B" and removed the wheel in an effort to do something different.

Upper bolt per the correct part is too big to fit in the bottom hole. Unless you got lucky and accidentally bought the smaller bolt for the lower hole and put it in the top hole.

I don't think you'll hit -4 with that arrangement since bilstein doesn't have the enlarged upper hole like Koni, KW or all the other toner struts.

[cueball89]

Are the SPC camber bolts installed with the washer tab in the maximum camber position?

[Pat]

I don't know. I'll ask.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by cueball89

Are the SPC camber bolts installed with the washer tab in the maximum camber position?

I just spoke with the guy that did my last alignment. He said he tried it with the washer tab both ways and got the same result.

[dasting]

How much did you drop the car from stock? This will change what you're able to achieve in camber.

I would put the stock bottom bolt into the top hole and use a crash bolt on the bottom hole. Which eccentric bolts are you using? I have a 14mm SPC cammed bolt in the bottom hole, and moved the bottom hole to the top, and was able to achieve -3.2 with just .8" drop and pedders top hats (which got me the advertised additional -.75).

When you have the wheel off and the bolts out, it becomes very obvious what bolt usage gets you the most camber. You can rotate the eccentric bolt and see which one allows the top of the knuckle to move farthest inward on the car.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by dasting

How much did you drop the car from stock? This will change what you're able to achieve in camber.

I would put the stock bottom bolt into the top hole and use a crash bolt on the bottom hole. Which eccentric bolts are you using? I have a 14mm SPC cammed bolt in the bottom hole, and moved the bottom hole to the top, and was able to achieve -3.2 with just .8" drop and pedders top hats (which got me the advertised additional -.75).

When you have the wheel off and the bolts out, it becomes very obvious what bolt usage gets you the most camber. You can rotate the eccentric bolt and see which one allows the top of the knuckle to move farthest inward on the car.

More than one inch. SPC.

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by Pat

I just spoke with the guy that did my last alignment. He said he tried it with the washer tab both ways and got the same result.

That doesn't sound right. With the washer tab in the specific direction (IIRC, the larger tab on the upper slot should be on the inside whereas the bottom camber bolt if you do get one, should have the larger tab on the outside), you should get maximum negative camber. You can literally see the knuckle moving inwards/outwards as you turn the bolt. Did the tech at least loosen the bottom bolt when he/she did the alignment? If the bottom bolt is still torque down, turning the top camber bolt will not have much of an effect and can possibly ruin the bolt/slot.

[Pat]

Good to know. I'm going back there in two days with new OEM control arms. Hopefully that will eliminate the possibility of bent control arms and incorrectly installed poly bushings.
I do remember him saying he could, "...see the knuckle moving inwards/outwards as you turn the bolt," though.
I don't know if he loosened the bottom bolt, but expect he did. Everything I've questioned him on so far has been correct. But I'll verify next time.

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by Pat

Good to know. I'm going back there in two days with new OEM control arms. Hopefully that will eliminate the possibility of bent control arms and incorrectly installed poly bushings.
I do remember him saying he could, "...see the knuckle moving inwards/outwards as you turn the bolt," though.
I don't know if he loosened the bottom bolt, but expect he did. Everything I've questioned him on so far has been correct. But I'll verify next time.

Hopefully it goes well. When I installed mine, I did notice the difference with the tabs put in different locations (for both bolts). My friend who was doing my alignment wasn't sure why I wasn't getting the enough camber (he had the larger tabs moving) until I told him that the tabs have to stay in a specific spot for maximum negative camber (which at the end netted me to -2.6 on fresh tires, currently at -2.4 after the wear). It was also close to -3 IIRC before the RCK install. Also, if you want more camber, you can also get the powerflex front lower control arm camber bushings for more adjustments.