Best Mods For A 2020 BRZ TS

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Hello fellow forum members!

So I'm currently in the process of making a build sheet for my 2020 BRZ TS. The car is still stock with only 1000KMS on the clock. I enjoy driving it, but coming from a 2009 G8 GT with full bolt-ons and internals making 450WHP, I feel the urge to make this car "mine". The TS is not the same car, never will be, and doesn't serve the same purpose, but I intend to keep it until it dies. I know I said that about my past cars, but I'm turning 32 soon and feel that this should be a long term project. Nevertheless, the TS is great, handles like a dream, and I feel like I have more than enough useable power.

I would like to build a complete NA+ car. NA because I don't feel like spending 7K+ on forced induction for power I don't really need. Yes some builds are reliable, but I don't want to add more stress to the engine.

The TS already came with somewhat of an upgraded suspension so I think I will leave that alone and get used to the wheel gap which is not too bad in my opinion. I had bad experiences with lowered cars, blowing intercoolers and taking driveways sideways. The bronze wheels are fine too. I have seen a lot of lowered BRZs with scraped exhaust so it's a no no for me.

I'm looking for any mods you feel would make a TS better, including visuals, exhaust, suspension and bushing parts, (aside from springs and coilovers). Anything you can think of!

I am looking at the TOMEI full exhaust but apparently it's louder than loud. I want a good UEL headers and full exhaust of the same brand if possible. A KN drop-in air filter will suffice. I want to upgrade the shifter and steering wheel as well. I will pair that up with an OFT stage II tune. I felt like learning Ecutek, but I just don't have that kind of time unfortunately.

I already did a lot of research but would appreciate any input on what would make a TS better than it already is.

Thanks for your time and suggestions!

P.S. Yes I know, it's another one of those "threads", you can roast me, I appreciate the humor.

[soundman98]

ITB's

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Originally Posted by soundman98

ITB's

Looks interesting. Any dyno available on a NA setup? Found one with gains of about 60whp and 40whp with headers and proper tune...that's pretty good.

[HaXx]

IMO, lowering it, catback exhaust, and some front lips/rear diffuser/sideskirts make a world of difference

It doesnt take much to make the frs/brz amazing looking. i think the tS already comes with the lips/skirts, wheels/tires/suspension are the three most significant things to change any car. of its a jeep, lift it, method race wheels, and knobby tires, and your done. entirely different rig.

on the tS you already have nice wheels and tires, its lowered a c-hair, so i would focus on lowering it some more. the 86 really needs nothing else. there are no issues with these things blowing oil pans like there may be on other platforms. the only thing that really happens to these thing is scraping the front lip, and scratching the exhaust where it bends around the diff. so not much to worry about with a lowered 86. my friend has a mini cooper thats slammed and hes been through 6 oil pans. that just doesnt happen to our cars.

headers+tune are not worth it IMO, despite being one of the most common mods. thats so much money and it will decrease your lap times by about ???. if you actually want to go faster, hire a pro racing instructor for a hpde. im a believer in 80% driver 20% car, thats why i dont really advocate performance mods, im more of an aesthetic guy (ricer, if you will)

there are some lowering springs out there that drop the car a considerable amount, pair that with a catback and you have drastically upgraded your cars presence for about 1000 dollars.

low, sounds good, turns heads, and the driver is not operating irresponsibly

[BlueWhelan]

Camber. Street car: at least -1.5 degrees. AutoX/track duty: as much as you can get.

Don't care how you do it, just do it.

[Kiske]

IMO The best money is a supercharger such as edelbrock or harrop. You can bolt on either kit in their eco-friendly/carb/base configurations while maintaining factory reliability without a need for supporting mods and even the stock clutch.



Everyone reads FI and thinks of the max output and requirements but, you don't need to even come close to maxing out of the kits to beat the N/A performance options. Even a low (large pulley) power setup of 230-260hp will kick the crap out of any non-fi setup. And if you decide you need more you always have the option to grow without having to redo/sell your existing modifications. The s/c options will also be compatible with UEL (and EL) headers if you still desire the subi rumble.


If you forego that advice and still want to go N/A do an exhaust/intake I'd recommend you work from the header back. The header and front pipe's cat will significantly change the volume/tone/rasp of the exhaust. Get those figured out with the OEM catback and then decide which catback you want to buy based on how loud that setup is to your liking. It rather sucks to buy a catback and then realize it is too loud after getting other exhaust bits. Without a turbo and/or cats these cars can be pretty obnoxious. Your intake isn't really going to matter unless you want more noise.


If you have the performance pack/ts brembos, dampers and ps4s tires roll with them as-is until you get more seat time. They are a VERY capable setup as-is. Grab some $30 eccentric camber bolts if you need to dial it in some. Don't join the lowering crowd and replace good parts with some cheap shit. Grow with the car and when your ready, and a few sets of tires are bald check out our suspension subforum. Your not going to get crap for the ts stuts when you sell them so you might as well use them.


As for aero you already have the ts with the 2018 ts lip, the 2018's sideskirts and spats would complement it nicely if you want to go with the OEM factory route. Keeping with the factory route there are some riser/pedistals for the 2020 spoiler to make it a tad higher and a bit more aggressive. Otherwise, there are tons of options for this platform as all model years and makes almost all interchange.



If you want a short shifter, Sti makes a factory replacement and/or TRD does a linkage kit. There are also tons of cheaper 3rd part options and more racecar like (IRP shifter) options. The factory shifter is already pretty great and some just feel all it needs is a little bit heavier shift knob to improve slotting and feel. As far as the rest of the interior do you./

There is also a ts specific facebook group if your looking for that crowd.

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Originally Posted by HaXx

IMO, lowering it, catback exhaust, and some front lips/rear diffuser/sideskirts make a world of difference

It doesnt take much to make the frs/brz amazing looking. i think the tS already comes with the lips/skirts, wheels/tires/suspension are the three most significant things to change any car. of its a jeep, lift it, method race wheels, and knobby tires, and your done. entirely different rig.

on the tS you already have nice wheels and tires, its lowered a c-hair, so i would focus on lowering it some more. the 86 really needs nothing else. there are no issues with these things blowing oil pans like there may be on other platforms. the only thing that really happens to these thing is scraping the front lip, and scratching the exhaust where it bends around the diff. so not much to worry about with a lowered 86. my friend has a mini cooper thats slammed and hes been through 6 oil pans. that just doesnt happen to our cars.

headers+tune are not worth it IMO, despite being one of the most common mods. thats so much money and it will decrease your lap times by about ???. if you actually want to go faster, hire a pro racing instructor for a hpde. im a believer in 80% driver 20% car, thats why i dont really advocate performance mods, im more of an aesthetic guy (ricer, if you will)

there are some lowering springs out there that drop the car a considerable amount, pair that with a catback and you have drastically upgraded your cars presence for about 1000 dollars.

low, sounds good, turns heads, and the driver is not operating irresponsibly

Thank you for the input. Unfortunately they deleted the wing, skirts and front lip included in the package for year 2020. I however already added the STI front lip, which looks great. I will be looking at side skits (probably STI) and a nice diffuser. I would like a carbon fiber theme on the white.

I'm not a fan of lowering vehicles to be honest. Yes it looks great, but I remember back when I had a lowered Cobalt SS Turbo, I had to be extremely careful in every damn driveway or entrance. I don't need that in my life. The BRZ is already quite low.

I think a good UEL header sounds phenomenal on these cars and I don't really plan on tracking it. Maybe a few times but for personal pleasure only.

I do agree with the catback. I originally wanted the Tomei, but guess I will have to listen to more soundclips.

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

Camber. Street car: at least -1.5 degrees. AutoX/track duty: as much as you can get.

Don't care how you do it, just do it.

I'm guessing this can be achieved with simple camber bolts?

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Originally Posted by Kiske

IMO The best money is a supercharger such as edelbrock or harrop. You can bolt on either kit in their eco-friendly/carb/base configurations while maintaining factory reliability without a need for supporting mods and even the stock clutch.



Everyone reads FI and thinks of the max output and requirements but, you don't need to even come close to maxing out of the kits to beat the N/A performance options. Even a low (large pulley) power setup of 230-260hp will kick the crap out of any non-fi setup. And if you decide you need more you always have the option to grow without having to redo/sell your existing modifications. The s/c options will also be compatible with UEL (and EL) headers if you still desire the subi rumble.


If you forego that advice and still want to go N/A do an exhaust/intake I'd recommend you work from the header back. The header and front pipe's cat will significantly change the volume/tone/rasp of the exhaust. Get those figured out with the OEM catback and then decide which catback you want to buy based on how loud that setup is to your liking. It rather sucks to buy a catback and then realize it is too loud after getting other exhaust bits. Without a turbo and/or cats these cars can be pretty obnoxious. Your intake isn't really going to matter unless you want more noise.


If you have the performance pack/ts brembos, dampers and ps4s tires roll with them as-is until you get more seat time. They are a VERY capable setup as-is. Grab some $30 eccentric camber bolts if you need to dial it in some. Don't join the lowering crowd and replace good parts with some cheap shit. Grow with the car and when your ready and a few sets of tires are bald check out our suspension subforum. Your not going to get crap for the ts stuts in the for-sale section so you might as well use them.


As for aero you already have the ts with the 2018 ts lip, the 2018's sideskirts and spats would complement it nicely if you want to go with the OEM factory route. Keeping with the factory route there are some riser/pedistals for the 2020 spoiler to make it a tad higher and a bit more aggressive. Otherwise, there are tons of options for this platform as all model years and makes almost all interchange.



If you want a short shifter, Sti makes a factory replacement and/or TRD does a linkage kit. There are also tons of cheaper 3rd part options and more racecar like (IRP shifter) options. The factory shifter is already pretty great and some just feel all it needs is a little bit heavier shift knob to improve slotting and feel. As far as the rest of the interior do you./

You do make a valid point with the supercharger, maybe I will end up changing my mind on staying N/A. I have looked into the Edelbrock and it seems like one of the best kit out there, one I could simply install myself and then flash with the included tune. This, of course, will be after the warranty is over, so I have time to save up that amount. It will likely be one of the last mods on the list. Hopefully the prices go down as years pass by.

Indeed, I should probably start with the header, and then go from there, instead of swapping everything at once. I wish there was more twins in my area so I could just sit in one and hear for myself. I guess I will attend some Ottawa meets next year.

I agree for the suspension. I think the TS is equipped with quality parts already and I don't feel like swapping it for some aftermarket that might not be as good. I don't know why people slam these vehicles or use ridiculous camber, that's not my thing, and it kills the purpose/essence of the car.

I looked into the IRP shifter as well and it seems pretty solid. I could start by swapping the spring and busings and go from there.

Thanks a lot for your time and input, much appreciated.

[BlueWhelan]

Originally Posted by SUSPECT_BRZ

I'm guessing this can be achieved with simple camber bolts?

Yup. Cam bolts, and Pedders makes some offset front top hats for additional camber/caster for $70 each. Great buy.

[Kiske]

Pssstttt. Edelbrock has a warranty on their supercharger.

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Originally Posted by Kiske

Pssstttt. Edelbrock has a warranty on their supercharger.

They do stand behind their product which is great. Is their warranty starting on the install date or is it based on the age of the car?

[Kiske]

EDELBROCK SUPERCHARGER WARRANTY INFORMATION


We're so confident in the engineering, manufacturing, quality and proven performance of our Edelbrock Supercharger Systems that we're backing them up with an unprecedented new warranty. Our new Limited Powertrain Warranty will pay up to $16,500 to cover the cost of parts and repairs for engine, transmission and rear axle components if a warranted vehicle suffers a mechanical failure. Now you can outfit your ride with an Edelbrock Supercharger and have the peace of mind that you'll be covered!
COVERAGE BENEFITS:

• Terms are 3 years (36 months) or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first Time is measured from the vehicles original in-service date and the mileage is measured from zero (0) on the odometer
• Applies to Stage 1 systems and Stage 2 systems supplied with a tuner and utilizing the Edelbrock calibration
• Supercharger system must be installed/repaired by:
  - New car dealer
  - Edelbrock certified installer
  - Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) Certified Technician at licensed automotive repair facility
• Valid in the U.S. and Canada
• Rental vehicle reimbursement for up to three (3) days or $105
• Warranty coverage provided and managed by Edelbrock, LLC
• $1,000 value at no additional cost to you

[SUSPECT_BRZ]

Oh well, if and by the time I get the supercharger the warranty won't apply anymore, so I guess I will save on install cost. Seems pretty straightforward.