Any (easy) way to stiffen up the feel of the clutch?

[FRSpdDmn]

Originally Posted by Koji_Online

I just didn't want to mess with it yet; one thing I did modify
was the clutch grab point by screwing in the master cylinder threads into the clutch pedal bracket.

Lowered physical pedal height & now my clutch grab point is super close to the floor without any gear grinds/ hesitation shifting back & forth between 1st and Reverse

Could you provide a little more detail please? I would like to do this.

[Boosted2.0]

Allow me to propose an old school answer:

Add a return spring or two to the pedal assembly.

[Koji_Online]

Originally Posted by FRSpdDmn

Could you provide a little more detail please? I would like to do this.

If you go under your steering column you will see the clutch master cylinder coming thru the firewall, just above the accel. pedal (I couldn't find it at first because cars I had before have it right behind the clutch... anyway) double-check you're looking at the right one by pressing the clutch with your left hand & watch the bracket/ cylinder move in & out.

You will see that the master cylinder bolt (w/e) threads into that bracket, & is held in place by a 12mm hex nut; pull out a 12mm open-ended, loosen the nut (too difficult to explain direction based on your orientational awareness; just be sure to note the thread pattern to know how you should turn to loosen it); slightly press clutch pedal with hand to remove tension from bolt, then with right hand screw the threads into the bracket; this will effectively bring your pedal closer to the ground & your grab point as well;

I've messed with different points all week & let me save you R&D; the most comfortable point for intuitive starts/ rolls off the clutch, & heel-toe downshifting; screw in until the clutch pedal sits ever so slightly lower than your brake pedal.

Test setup by getting in drivers seat, turn your car on, & test grab point by putting into first & letting out very slowly with no gas input; take note of when your car ever so slightly moves forward; next run forward a few feet, STOP completely, then immediately shift into reverse; if you get no unusual hesitation or grinding then move back & repeat this (forward, stop reverse) until you feel comfortable with your grab point & make sure you aren't grinding gears.

Tighten the bolt & one final thing, look at the front of your clutch pedal, the first sensor up is for your cruise control & I believe relates to your gear indicator display (if you have it enabled); basically the gear displays only with clutch out, but now that you put your pedal closer to the floor it does not engage the switch on the sensor.
In the same fashion that you loosened the clutch master cylinder nut, use a 14mm to loosen the nut attached to the sensor; it doesn't actually thread into the bracket, so you don't have to turn the sensor in; with the nut loose just slightly push it in to get the sensor switch in contact with the clutch pedal (fully depress the switch onto the pedal); just make sure it isn't pushing force down on your pedal, or this will probably put wear on your clutch ( my suggestion is to pull up on your pedal while you push the sensor into place; then tighten nut.

Now you are all set, you clutch point is optimally adjusted for all sorts of driving, & your cruise control/ gear indicator still functions =D

[Spaceywilly]

The clutch pedal is a turnover type to reduce pedal effort, according to the service manual. I've never heard of this being used in a Subaru before so I'm guess that's why the effort is so light. Seems like it will not be an easy fix.

[vividracingcom]

We're working on a new clutch and flywheel for the FR-S/BRZ. We've already got one being tested. Manufactured by one of the biggest names in the industry.

Clutch feel is much improved compared to stock.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by old greg

On some cars, they are also set up to restrict the maximum flow rate of fluid from the slave cylinder to the master cylinder as a sort of anti-clutch-drop measure to help keep transmissions in one piece. A prime example is the WRX: 2002 = no damper, 2003 = damper.

Yep.

That's why I said y'all should look for it and remove it if it's there.

[Calum]

Originally Posted by Koji_Online

If you go under your steering column you will see the clutch master cylinder coming thru the firewall, just above the accel. pedal (I couldn't find it at first because cars I had before have it right behind the clutch... anyway) double-check you're looking at the right one by pressing the clutch with your left hand & watch the bracket/ cylinder move in & out.

You will see that the master cylinder bolt (w/e) threads into that bracket, & is held in place by a 12mm hex nut; pull out a 12mm open-ended, loosen the nut (too difficult to explain direction based on your orientational awareness; just be sure to note the thread pattern to know how you should turn to loosen it); slightly press clutch pedal with hand to remove tension from bolt, then with right hand screw the threads into the bracket; this will effectively bring your pedal closer to the ground & your grab point as well;

I've messed with different points all week & let me save you R&D; the most comfortable point for intuitive starts/ rolls off the clutch, & heel-toe downshifting; screw in until the clutch pedal sits ever so slightly lower than your brake pedal.

Test setup by getting in drivers seat, turn your car on, & test grab point by putting into first & letting out very slowly with no gas input; take note of when your car ever so slightly moves forward; next run forward a few feet, STOP completely, then immediately shift into reverse; if you get no unusual hesitation or grinding then move back & repeat this (forward, stop reverse) until you feel comfortable with your grab point & make sure you aren't grinding gears.

Tighten the bolt & one final thing, look at the front of your clutch pedal, the first sensor up is for your cruise control & I believe relates to your gear indicator display (if you have it enabled); basically the gear displays only with clutch out, but now that you put your pedal closer to the floor it does not engage the switch on the sensor.
In the same fashion that you loosened the clutch master cylinder nut, use a 14mm to loosen the nut attached to the sensor; it doesn't actually thread into the bracket, so you don't have to turn the sensor in; with the nut loose just slightly push it in to get the sensor switch in contact with the clutch pedal (fully depress the switch onto the pedal); just make sure it isn't pushing force down on your pedal, or this will probably put wear on your clutch ( my suggestion is to pull up on your pedal while you push the sensor into place; then tighten nut.

Now you are all set, you clutch point is optimally adjusted for all sorts of driving, & your cruise control/ gear indicator still functions =D

Mods please move this to the DIY section. That's a great write up on something I bet a lot people will be doing.

[Jeff Lange]

As someone who is used to lighter clutch pedals (though I have driven and enjoyed many heavier pedals as well), I found the clutch pedal in the FR-S to be very direct and while light, very easy to control.

I would not change it purposely unless it was just the result of putting in a heavier pressure plate, etc.

I thought it felt great.

Jeff

[Zoomie]

I think if it bothered me that much I might initially try the extra or heavier return spring trick and if that didn't do it for me I would remove the pedal TIG up the pivot hole for the pushrod going to the master cylinder and redrill it slightly lower down the pedal. Personally stuff like this to me seems idiocyncratic to this cool little car and truthfully, I'd just get used to its wierdities rather than trying to change them to match mine.

[ESBjiujitsu]

last night i drove a manual frs for the first time and was taken by shock at the softness of the clutch pedal. Ido agree that it is crazy easy to control and get use to but i like having a bit of resistance and that kick!!!! but it certainly is not a reason to NOT get the car, because im sure i can find a nice stiff clutch to throw in there Its the softest clutch I think its one of the softer clutches on a sports car i have ever felt. But again....the car is too awesome to give a $h!t

[jdrxb9]

Originally Posted by Koji_Online

If you go under your steering column you will see the clutch master cylinder coming thru the firewall....

Now you are all set, you clutch point is optimally adjusted for all sorts of driving, & your cruise control/ gear indicator still functions =D

Just wanted to say thanks for this! I don't think I went quite as far as you did - my clutch pedal is about even with my brake and I didn't have to adjust the sensor position for the CC/GI to work. I was surprised that what looks like a small adjustment feels totally different to the feet. Even though the effort is unchanged, the throw is now so much more in tune with the other controls, it really is an amazing improvement.

[Koji_Online]

Originally Posted by jdrxb9

Just wanted to say thanks for this! I don't think I went quite as far as you did - my clutch pedal is about even with my brake and I didn't have to adjust the sensor position for the CC/GI to work. I was surprised that what looks like a small adjustment feels totally different to the feet. Even though the effort is unchanged, the throw is now so much more in tune with the other controls, it really is an amazing improvement.

Definitely changes the feel of the whole driving experience for me as well!; I'm glad it worked out well for you & thanks for the 'thanks' =D

[FRSpdDmn]

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

Yeah, the delay valve appears to be built into the master cylinder.

Has anyone figured out if there is a master cylinder from another car that can be swapped in, without a clutch delay valve? The CDV is infuriating.
Thanks.

[wu_dot_com]

so here is the experience from someone who actually have an aftermarket prototype clutch, pressure plate and flywheel installed on the BRZ.

with the new pressure plate and clutch. the grab point is more define. however, the clutch still feels plushy. the pressure plate did increased the peddle stiffness and resistance. however, it is very light by feel, and the actual gain can only be more easily realized through test data. on the other hand, going to a even heavier pressure plate is not desirable. since this car produces relatively low torque, having a extra heavy pressure plate may reduce the longevity of the axial bearing of the engine.

also. the design of this car have massive damping in the OEM spring center clutch hub. couple with a relatively heavy clutch (by mass), what you get is a chatter free gear operations throughout the RPM ranges. if you were to reduce the mass of the clutch , and stiffen up the spring center(to allow more torque carrying capability), your system will not be able to damped out the vibration chatter between the input shaft and the transmission gears at certain RPM. For my car, I have a chatter zone around 35-3700 RPM with full engine load (clutch is couple, AC on).


so beware of what you are asking for. there is a trade off in every choice you make.