Axle replacement

[meeks]

Originally Posted by lexusb3

is this clicking everything time you drive or only when you move off example from a light or dead stop???

It used to be like that. Now its almost everytime, deceleration, acceleration or any sudden touch of the throttle.

[lexusb3]

ohh lol then i think i hear mine hahah but i mean i been beating the hell outa mine tho! and you guys see the power i make on my sig. Mine only happens when i move off just for like a second or like a click or 2

[Carwhisperer]

Originally Posted by meeks

It used to be like that. Now its almost everytime, deceleration, acceleration or any sudden touch of the throttle.

Yep. I can feel when mine ticks now.

[markmatley]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

We just finished, it wasn't too bad once we had the right tools. Basically we had to remove the axle nut, disconnect the brake line, LCA and toe arm from the hub. from there you can have someone hold the hub up and out while you remove the axle from the hub.

Then you just have to pry the axle out of the diff like normal.

About the prying part..is there a c-clip or anything fancy needing to pull off? Or does it smoothly pop off when you remove everything holding the wheel hub?

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

yep. i tried retorquing mine to no avail, unfortunately. The replacement seems to have fixed it though.

i'm having trouble finding the torque numbers for the various rear axle related bolts. Could you provide them? I'm having the click/tick noise when starting from a stop and sometimes when changing gears and would like to try tightening them first before I drop $$ on a new axle.

[Fizz]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

i'm having trouble finding the torque numbers for the various rear axle related bolts. Could you provide them? I'm having the click/tick noise when starting from a stop and sometimes when changing gears and would like to try tightening them first before I drop $$ on a new axle.

If you're referring to the rear axle nut, that's 136 ft-lbs. Better still, get a new axle nut (only a few dollars from the dealer) and replace the old one. Torque to spec, then crimp the lip of the nut using a punch pin.

If you're referring to the 4 rear hub/bearing bolts, I think that's 50 ft-lbs.

[OmarYasin]

.

[Flat Black VW]

So any aftermarket axles out there that are better?

My car is mostly stock and I'd rather not put another set of stock axles on if the cv is just gonna blow out again in another 20k

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Flat Black VW

So any aftermarket axles out there that are better?

My car is mostly stock and I'd rather not put another set of stock axles on if the cv is just gonna blow out again in another 20k

Driveshaft Shop

[kodyo]

Originally Posted by markmatley

About the prying part..is there a c-clip or anything fancy needing to pull off? Or does it smoothly pop off when you remove everything holding the wheel hub?

I've done a lot of diff work recently that requires removing the axles. There is a circlip on the axle, but it's not super difficult to overcome.

Here is how I've been doing it:
1) I have a bearing splitter that I got from Harbor Freight (to pull the bearing off of the pinion gear). I put that around the end of the axle that is solid (black). Do not put it around the dust cover (silver).



2) I then use a pry bar between the diff and the bearing splitter and wiggle it furiously until it unseats the axle from the diff. Then it just slides off.

To put it back into the diff, I just hit the edge of that black piece on the axle until it seats back into the diff. You should replace the circlips if you follow the factory service manual recommendation (I'm betting the new axles come with them).

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by kodyo

I've done a lot of diff work recently that requires removing the axles. There is a circlip on the axle, but it's not super difficult to overcome.

Here is how I've been doing it:
1) I have a bearing splitter that I got from Harbor Freight (to pull the bearing off of the pinion gear). I put that around the end of the axle that is solid (black). Do not put it around the dust cover (silver).



2) I then use a pry bar between the diff and the bearing splitter and wiggle it furiously until it unseats the axle from the diff. Then it just slides off.

To put it back into the diff, I just hit the edge of that black piece on the axle until it seats back into the diff. You should replace the circlips if you follow the factory service manual recommendation (I'm betting the new axles come with them).

When you removed your axles did you unbolt the diff to get it out or did you unbolt all the suspension, brake, and wheel side stuff? Seems to be two different ways to do it from what I've read.

[ShutterSpeed]

I've broken two axles, stock and Driveshaft Shop. It boils down to the car being lowered mostly. Whenever you lower the car the axle geometry gets completely messed up. It puts too great of an angle on the inner CV joint which causes the cradle holding all the ball bearings to break. Best way to remedy this if you want to be low is to buy the PBM Subframe and Diff Risers. I went thru hell and back though to use these with my DSS axles.

When the DSS axles "broke" they froze/seized at the outer joint. Not sure the reasoning behind this but thats what happened.

I have a full write up on my adventures into solving the infamous clicking noise here.

[kodyo]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

When you removed your axles did you unbolt the diff to get it out or did you unbolt all the suspension, brake, and wheel side stuff? Seems to be two different ways to do it from what I've read.

I was removing the diff, so I unbolted the diff and was able to detach the axles to remove it. But if you are removing the axle for replacement, I imagine you'd leave the diff bolted up and remove the hub components to get the axle out.

[ysr50guy]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

When you removed your axles did you unbolt the diff to get it out or did you unbolt all the suspension, brake, and wheel side stuff? Seems to be two different ways to do it from what I've read.

So after changing my axles I found out the easiest way to do it is by unbolting the differential and lowereing it. Its also a big plus because you don't touch none of your suspension so you don't need a alignment afterwards. Here's a quick diy for anyone planning on tackling this on their own:
1. Jack up car and support with jack stands.
2. Remove the wheel on the side you will be replacing the axle on. Pull the ebrake and remove the axle nut, you need a 32mm socket.
3. Jack up the lower control arm in till your shocks start compressing and the whole car raises just slightly. This puts the axle in a angle and makes it easier to remove.
4. I use a harbor freight 24in tire iron and rubber mallet to pull the axle from the differential, super easy you just need one good hit. (Axle won't come off completely you only need to pull it 2 or 3 inches)
5. Now you need to support the differential with a jack and unbolt the 5 bolts that holds it in place, 2 on the side and 3 on the rear. Impact gun makes the job easy.
6. Start lowering the differential in till you have enough angle for the axle to pop off. Make sure diffrential doesn't tilt to the side or it will leak oil.
7. To remove the other side of the axle you just give it a small tap where you remove the 32mm nut and pull it out of the hub assembly.
To reinstall new axle just follow instructions in reverse order.