P0171 and P117B after Edelbrock SC FIXED

[CSG Mike]

That high pitched buzz/whine is normal for ignition on, car not running. Every FA20 does it.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

my electric water pump might be louder.

Did you buy from CSG? I've heard that about their kits.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Did you buy from CSG? I've heard that about their kits.

It is a Harrop kit. It isn't noticeable from in the car when I am driving. I can definitely hear the surge of water and the buzz of the motor from inside the car when it is in the on-position. There is probably the buzz of the engine too. I can't recall right now.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

It is a Harrop kit. It isn't noticeable from in the car when I am driving. I can definitely hear the surge of water and the buzz of the motor from inside the car when it is in the on-position. There is probably the buzz of the engine too. I can't recall right now.

Oh, dammit. I thought you also have the Edelbrock. I'm just joshin'.

I'm a real fan of the Harrop. Helped to install and tinker with a friend's a couple years ago.

[toast]

Any update on this? It takes all of 40 minutes to pull the supercharger off. My money is on a sliced intake manifold gasket. If you don't install it with assembly lube or something else sticky to hold it in place when you flip it right side up it can fall out of place. The bottom edge of the SC manifold and the top edges of the head are all razor sharp and can easily slice it.

I know you said you sprayed starter fluid around the area but at this point everything certainly looks like a vacuum leak and it seems to be the only thing you haven't checked yet.

[snowtaipan]

SITREP

From Calibration@Edelbrock
Here are some more thoughts after a brainstorming session with some of our department. Please understand that we are trying to check all the boxes off before we consider software an issue. We have at least 10 other customers with the same ROM version running without the same issue at this time. Not saying this is your fault in anyway but we just need to determine where the difference lies:

Did you receive an air flow straightener for your MAF housing? It looks like a black plastic grid that inserts into the aluminum MAF housing.
Yep
Could you send us a picture of the air filter? We switched from oiled to dry air filters last year to protect the MAF element. This could effect air flow at idle which is where your issue seems to be focused.
So it is an oil air filter, but as I mentioned WAYYY earlier, this has been brought up so I pulled it and used filer cleaner, then reoiled at 25% of what I think it should be. I also used CRC MAF cleaner to clean the MAF.
We understand the exhaust is stock but has it been inspected for any possible leaks? This could still be considered unmetered air by the O2 sensor (trying to cover all our bases).
I dont see any
How does the car actually drive? Is there any obvious issues cruising around? Your logs during wide open throttle look good.
Its a blast, except when I have a MIL light on. No hesitation, idle is pretty much like it was stock, I don't feel anything weird.
Could you record a log of normal highway driving? Basically 5 minutes of cruising at speed limit for more fuel trim/air flow analysis?
MOAR LOGGSIS https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/drive-log?log=0&data=7
IF POSSIBLE, would you be able to get closer to 500’ elevation and record idle/normal drivability? This would be a more “apples to apples” comparison for us.
So that's an 8 hour drive, Edelbrock will just have to get over it.

So I pulled the SC, and started going through things. The high pressure sensor not giving me a reading is starting to concern me. From what I understand it does get involved with fuel trims. I know normally this would cause hard start, stalling, bad performance, but since there are both di and pi systems, and since the sensor doesn't directly control either, I wonder if it is effecting trims. So I pinned a bunch of shit out.

#1 HPFS wire to ECU cannon plug pin 16: good continuity
#2 buddy check HPFS to EFI coolant sensor: good cont
#3 buddy check HPFS to TB: good cont

here's where I'm worried, the last check from the shop manual is to run 5v from HPFS pin 4 to 2, then read pin 3 to 2 with target being .5v. I ran 4.7v (that's as close as I could get) and took the reading. 3:2 hace 4.4v, WAY higher than the manual stated. Not sure if they meant that it should match ref voltage at 4.7, but that worries me, since it's out of tolerance and like $70

I also went through and checked all pins and connectors, no issues there, all harnesses and hoses hooked up per the manual...

If you look at the attachments I have the TB gasket, air filter, and runner gaskets in there. The gaskets were fine, no tears or anything, but there's some black shit around them and I'm wondering is it was blowing pressure past them? I double checked the TQ on the bolts twice, so that's not it. And I'm not sure if air blowing OUT the runners would make it lean, I'd think that would lead to a rich condition.

So here's where I'm at: I'm wondering if the HPFS is bad, and need input on whether or not it looks like gas was getting by the manifold gaskets.

[snowtaipan]

Originally Posted by toast

Any update on this? It takes all of 40 minutes to pull the supercharger off. My money is on a sliced intake manifold gasket. If you don't install it with assembly lube or something else sticky to hold it in place when you flip it right side up it can fall out of place. The bottom edge of the SC manifold and the top edges of the head are all razor sharp and can easily slice it.

I know you said you sprayed starter fluid around the area but at this point everything certainly looks like a vacuum leak and it seems to be the only thing you haven't checked yet.

It's checked now, that wasn't it I don't think. Though I think smoking+vac checks+ water+ starter fluid was pretty complete. My gaskets have ridges in the side, seems to hold them in pretty well, I didn't run into mounting issues during the install.

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

here's where I'm worried, the last check from the shop manual is to run 5v from HPFS pin 4 to 2, then read pin 3 to 2 with target being .5v. I ran 4.7v (that's as close as I could get) and took the reading. 3:2 hace 4.4v, WAY higher than the manual stated. Not sure if they meant that it should match ref voltage at 4.7, but that worries me, since it's out of tolerance and like $70

Did you bleed down the fuel pressure or pull the sensor before taking the reading?
I'm wondering if this test is with the sensor in hand or no fuel pressure present. Maybe the .5v represents no pressure and what you're seeing is output of a sensor under pressure.
Or the .5v is a typo because they do also say "If the resistance is not as specified, replace the fuel pressure sensor." but this test is not measuring resistance (at least not directly).

[snowtaipan]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

Did you bleed down the fuel pressure or pull the sensor before taking the reading?
I'm wondering if this test is with the sensor in hand or no fuel pressure present. Maybe the .5v represents no pressure and what you're seeing is output of a sensor under pressure.
Or the .5v is a typo because they do also say "If the resistance is not as specified, replace the fuel pressure sensor." but this test is not measuring resistance (at least not directly).

I didn't defuel, good point. I'll figure out a way to do that tomorrow. Banjo bolt?

Yeah I saw that too. I assumed it was checking output voltage, but I wonder if I'm looking for an Ohms reading. .5 Ohms is pretty friggin low though... The 2016 uses the same test (with one less pin,) and has the same standards, and the same typo (maybe?)

That manual had some crap QA/QC on it.

[BirdTRD]

Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine, that should depressurize the fuel rail.

[snowtaipan]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

Pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine, that should depressurize the fuel rail.

That would be difficult with the SC on the floor of my garage

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

That would be difficult with the SC on the floor of my garage

Doh! Time to spill a little fuel then I guess.
As far as the intake gaskets and mating surfaces, I think that junk you see is just dirt and grime from all the stuff you sprayed around leak hunting.
Did you say you checked your MAF o-ring and it was good?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

That would be difficult with the SC on the floor of my garage

Just have a rag over the bolt. Undo it slowly like a shaken can of soda. It isn’t bad.

[Irace86.2.0]

Might as well check the direct injectors n seals.