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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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08-17-2019, 11:50 AM | #15 |
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08-17-2019, 12:20 PM | #16 |
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Before I took it in, I put it on stands and took the wheels off. Couldn't see any damage. Nothing leaking(except maybe my rear diff?... ugh), or bent. The axle's seem to spin without weird noise. I don't have access to measure runout myself to see if they are truly damaged.
The alignment went well! You can see before I had small amount of cross camber, and some toe in the front. I had them put the Whiteline camber bolts in and max it out. thanks @Tristor for those! So I ended up with: - maxed camber in front at -1.5 - zero out front toe - rear tow target .10 I'm very happy with the results! The float and twitchiness is gone at highway speeds. I could actually relax on the 100mi drive back. I feel like I finally have my car back! My theory is going from stock 17x7.5 215/45 to 18x8 225/40, there just wasn't enough camber in front to keep significant amounts of contact patch on the fronts with the ground. I cloud be wrong though. This is the first time I've messed with suspension on a car. As for NVH, I'm wondering if the combination of lower sidewall height and my recent AOS install has something to do with that. I've noticed my AOS vibrates quite a bit and the mount is right on the firewall. I'm going to take the AOS off today and see what happens. |
08-17-2019, 12:33 PM | #17 | |
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All you need to do is raise the rear wheels off the ground, put in gear to allow the rear tires to spin and watch the edge of the rim. No runout means there would be no visible side to side wobble in the rim in a complete rotation. The front tires are a little harder only because you need to spin them really hard to be able to check them. It's no different than truing a bike wheel!
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to soundman98 For This Useful Post: | BRZ FTW (08-17-2019), Ultramaroon (08-17-2019) |
08-17-2019, 12:46 PM | #18 | |
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08-17-2019, 01:37 PM | #19 |
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Sounds like they got you set up. I’m glad it was just an alignment required. I’m planning on getting a runout dial gauge soon to check my rotor runout, so if you want you can borrow it at the DIY garage to check yours as well, but I’m guessing it’s in spec.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Tristor For This Useful Post: | BRZ FTW (08-17-2019) |
08-17-2019, 03:23 PM | #20 | |
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09-15-2019, 04:21 PM | #21 |
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So I removed the AOS a couple weeks back. That definitely reduced noise. However, over the past week or so NVH has gotten much worse. Coming back from Austin to San Antonio last week, I felt like my car was going to vibrate apart. The NVH also seems to be more intense the hotter the car/weather is, and getting progressively worse.
Around the same time I hit the new tarmac(a month or so ago), my passenger rear wheel went off a paved section of concrete and into a ditch(cut a corner coming out of parking lot). Very loud thud as it smacked the ground. So I put it on stands, took the wheels off, took the brake pads out, and spun the rotor/hub to try and find any noise discrepancies on all four sides. I found the passenger rear hub assembly seems to be making a grinding type noise. This lines up with the incident I had a couple months back, and where I believe the noise was coming from in the cabin. So the car is on jack stands while a wait for parts. Sigh... |
09-25-2019, 02:39 PM | #22 |
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replaced the passenger rear hub assembly. the old hub had a grinding noise to it when spun, and appears to have been leaking.
some improvement, but still have significant vibrations in upper rpm range. wondering if the motor/transmission mounts are damaged. |
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