Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Has anyone else had issues with boiling RBF600?

I ran two days at Sebring this past weekend; fresh RBF600 fluid, Cobalt XR1 fronts / XR2 rears, NT-01s, TF Brake Cooling kit with titanium shims, and 95*f ambient temps with a passenger the entire time.

In the afternoon I was pushing hard, and noticed each lap, the pedal travel was getting a little bit longer and longer, then backing off for a few laps, I still had a long pedal. Came in, bled the fronts, went back out and it was good for a few laps, then when again when I started pushing really hard, pedal travel was getting longer and longer after each hard lap. (wasn't pad knock-back; I was priming the brake pedal after each corner on the straight away thinking thats what it was, as I usually get knock-back after I get on the exit curbing).

I'm thinking it's not so much the RBF600, as I've never boiled the fluid before, but that was my first time running the Cobalt XR1 (usually run XR2 front), which is their most aggressive pad, and I've also increased my front brake bias by running a XR2 pad in the rear, which is putting more heat into the front brakes. That, plus the high ambient temps and an extra 200lb passenger the entire time probably contributed to it.

I think next time I'll just go back to the XR2 fronts and go to a better fluid like the RBF660 or Castrol SRF.

We boil or notice significant pedal changes from RBF600 in 2-3 sessions, SuperATE in 1-2 sessions, RBF660 in about 1-2 days, and PMU G-Four in 4 days. We are currently running RT700 with no degradation in pedal feel. Unfortunately, RT700 is on backorder right now and I believe we only have 1 bottle left with epic security lockdown on that unit.

[retrosmiths]

@CSG_Mike, which track brake pads produce the lowest noise when used on streets/cold?

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by CSG David

We boil or notice significant pedal changes from RBF600 in 2-3 sessions, SuperATE in 1-2 sessions, RBF660 in about 1-2 days, and PMU G-Four in 4 days. We are currently running RT700 with no degradation in pedal feel. Unfortunately, RT700 is on backorder right now and I believe we only have 1 bottle left with epic security lockdown on that unit.

Wow, alright, i'll have to try that then (if i can find it)

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Wow, alright, i'll have to try that then (if i can find it)

Our ETA for RT700 is next week or week after...we've been waiting for 2 months now

[smbstyle]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Our ETA for RT700 is next week or week after...we've been waiting for 2 months now

wow that is nuts!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Has anyone else had issues with boiling RBF600?

I ran two days at Sebring this past weekend; fresh RBF600 fluid, Cobalt XR1 fronts / XR2 rears, NT-01s, TF Brake Cooling kit with titanium shims, and 95*f ambient temps with a passenger the entire time.

In the afternoon I was pushing hard, and noticed each lap, the pedal travel was getting a little bit longer and longer, then backing off for a few laps, I still had a long pedal. Came in, bled the fronts, went back out and it was good for a few laps, then when again when I started pushing really hard, pedal travel was getting longer and longer after each hard lap. (wasn't pad knock-back; I was priming the brake pedal after each corner on the straight away thinking thats what it was, as I usually get knock-back after I get on the exit curbing).

I'm thinking it's not so much the RBF600, as I've never boiled the fluid before, but that was my first time running the Cobalt XR1 (usually run XR2 front), which is their most aggressive pad, and I've also increased my front brake bias by running a XR2 pad in the rear, which is putting more heat into the front brakes. That, plus the high ambient temps and an extra 200lb passenger the entire time probably contributed to it.

I think next time I'll just go back to the XR2 fronts and go to a better fluid like the RBF660 or Castrol SRF.

You're putting more heat into the fronts than you're used to, and you're also probably getting faster (on top of the passenger weight).

Try Project Mu G-Four. It's specs are higher than RBF660, cheaper by unit volume, and is green when it's fresh, and turns an ugly brown as it degrades (same as degrade RBF600), so you can easily check the fluid's status without having to "test it on track".

Unless we get RT700 in.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by retrosmiths

@CSG_Mike, which track brake pads produce the lowest noise when used on streets/cold?

No underscore!

Project Mu NS400, Bforce
Carbotech 1521
Winmax W1, W2
Autozone duralast...

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by smbstyle

Wow, alright, i'll have to try that then (if i can find it)

I've refused some offers of big $$ for my personal stock of RT700...

SHOO. GET AWAY.

[retrosmiths]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You're putting more heat into the fronts than you're used to, and you're also probably getting faster (on top of the passenger weight).

Try Project Mu G-Four. It's specs are higher than RBF660, cheaper by unit volume, and is green when it's fresh, and turns an ugly brown as it degrades (same as degrade RBF600), so you can easily check the fluid's status without having to "test it on track".

Unless we get RT700 in.

Brown? I thought I read in other website description that it turns clear when boiled?

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.

[retrosmiths]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

No underscore!

Project Mu NS400, Bforce
Carbotech 1521
Winmax W1, W2
Autozone duralast...

Wait.."track" pads?

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by retrosmiths

Wait.."track" pads?

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.

Street pads :p

[retrosmiths]

LOL something better or equal to HC+800 with less squeal.

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.

[Thongpocket]

Sorry if someone asked this but what do you guys run as far as camber and toe for track days usually?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Thongpocket

Sorry if someone asked this but what do you guys run as far as camber and toe for track days usually?

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

-3 to -4 front camber
-2 to -3 rear camber
0 toe

That ballpark fits most "track" BRZ/FRS. If you're street driving as well, you'll probably need to compromise on something unless you care more about performance than tire life. (We're talking maybe a 30% decrease in life at most)