Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[MaxTurbo]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

Absolutely agree with that statement - but even then the 0w-20 is still going to be just fine and will work flawlessly

What I will honestly end up doing is going 5w-30 in "winter" months and go back to 0w-20 in summer months as that seems to be extremely popular and work out well for everyone

Wouldn't it be the oposite? 0W-20 in winter?

IMO, if you don't live in an area that have very cold winters and you don't need to squeeze the last percentage of efficiency, there's no need to run 0W-20. Even the Owner's Manual recommends 5W-30 for "high performance driving". 5W-30 was designed to work down to temperatures of -22F. The consensus is the 0W-20 is used to squeeze every little bit of MPG.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

Absolutely agree with that statement - but even then the 0w-20 is still going to be just fine and will work flawlessly

What I will honestly end up doing is going 5w-30 in "winter" months and go back to 0w-20 in summer months as that seems to be extremely popular and work out well for everyone

You have it backwards. Thinner in the winter, in theory.

However, if you have no oil cooler, or a thermostatic oil cooler, it really doesn't make much difference.

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You have it backwards. Thinner in the winter, in theory.

However, if you have no oil cooler, or a thermostatic oil cooler, it really doesn't make much difference.

Oh shoot, you're right, haha. Good catch, I just switched up my seasons. Being from MN originally I am all too familiar with horrific winters

I will be running the JR dual rad/cooler combo for mine.

This is my first venture into BRZ FI and I really wanna make sure I do whatever I can to ensure longevity and reliability.

[Silverfox]

Originally Posted by MaxTurbo

Wouldn't it be the opposite? 0W-20 in winter?

IMO, if you don't live in an area that has very cold winters and you don't need to squeeze the last percentage of efficiency, there's no need to run 0W-20. Even the Owner's Manual recommends 5W-30 for "high-performance driving". 5W-30 was designed to work down to temperatures of -22F. The consensus is the 0W-20 is used to squeeze every little bit of MPG.

Great Point. I understood the reasoning and I normally run 5w-30 when I plan a track day/canyon trips/summer months. However, until you said something, I was unaware they mentioned it in the manual.

For any thread lurkers like myself - (pg 415)

"Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows
cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier
starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature.An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

[jmai]

Hi guys, finally got my edelbrock kit installed and everything has been running fine but I’m starting to run to P24B9 fault code which is causing the TC and CEL light to turn on. Any idea on what could be causing this?

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by jmai

Hi guys, finally got my edelbrock kit installed and everything has been running fine but I’m starting to run to P24B9 fault code which is causing the TC and CEL light to turn on. Any idea on what could be causing this?

Might be Evap related based on a quick Google search, although I don't see anything specific for Subaru. Make sure all the evap hoses are correctly installed and secured (clamped) and the wiring and connectors are good.

[MaxTurbo]

Originally Posted by Silverfox

Great Point. I understood the reasoning and I normally run 5w-30 when I plan a track day/canyon trips/summer months. However, until you said something, I was unaware they mentioned it in the manual.

For any thread lurkers like myself - (pg 415)

"Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows
cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier
starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature.An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

I could be wrong, it has been two years since I read the manual. But I believe mine (2013 FRS) mentioned 5W-30 specifically.

[rixon]

Originally Posted by MaxTurbo

I could be wrong, it has been two years since I read the manual. But I believe mine (2013 FRS) mentioned 5W-30 specifically.

It's definitely 0W-20.
You can go crazy talking about what oil to use because of all the varied opinions on the topic. There was a time when 0W oil was fairly expensive now it's the same price as 5W/10W. I see no reason to ever use anything but a 0W oil. If you look at Mobil 1's site even their race oil is 0W. Not sure why Subaru mentions 5W-30 when 0W-30 is readily available.


One thing I know European spec'ed oil is generally superior to US oil. Their oil is meant to go 10,000 miles between changes and is spec'ed that way. I wonder what are Subaru spec's for their European BRZ's.

[toast]

Originally Posted by jmai

Hi guys, finally got my edelbrock kit installed and everything has been running fine but I’m starting to run to P24B9 fault code which is causing the TC and CEL light to turn on. Any idea on what could be causing this?

The evap solenoid is one of the thing that gets moved when installing the kit. I would check it to make sure the nipple isn't cracked at the base. Maybe replace the hoses coming and going to it.

[B T]

I'm getting a misfire in cylinder one, only cylinder one. I've tried changing the coil packs, checked for oil in the plug. anyone else have this issue?

[ArrrBussiere]

Alright everyone - I am officially an owner of an Edelbrock supercharged BRZ!! 1,040 mile round trip w/ my Tacoma and car trailer over the weekend and I am just stupid happy.

This post will be helpful to those looking at getting this kit or installing it. Most of the thread here is issues and help needed which can be a real turn off when trying to decide whether it is worth it and seeing so much "bad stuff" can really turn the tide - I want this post to instill confidence in this kit and car!

The car is tastefully modded and the supercharged engine is just....so beautiful. It's not like "stupid fast" but I rocked her through the gears and it put me back in the seat for sure. The stupid big ass grin on my face was all the seller needed to see to know I was going home with it. I was worried it was going to be too much - coming from a 2013 that was just all too happy to get sideways immediately, my fear was that any amount of throttle and it would wanna GO. I cannot stress enough that this is not the case, it is still very even down low but once you start creeping up on 3k RPM and then hit it - she goes and goes and the smile that will be put on your face makes it all worth it.

Here are a few pics as soon as I got home and off the trailer. Needs some work on the outside (I work at a body shop and have PLANS, she is going to be beautiful for 2021) but the interior is absolutely FLAWLESS. Notable mods: SC, Todoroki Fenders, RB V2 front, 18x10 Work Emotion XD9 w/ 265/35R18 Pilot SS tires, Bilstein coils, Versus camber plates, Sti push button start, Sti CF wheel, alacantra wrapped interior pieces and much more!








I do have one quick question regarding the dreaded bypass valve:

This was just installed either at the end of 2018 or beginning of 2019 so I am fairly confident it has the beefy version - but is there an easy way to check? I feel like I read something while cruising through this thread but can't find it again..

Thanks all - glad to be a part of the "Supercharged Crew"!!

[ArrrBussiere]

Originally Posted by Silverfox

Great Point. I understood the reasoning and I normally run 5w-30 when I plan a track day/canyon trips/summer months. However, until you said something, I was unaware they mentioned it in the manual.

For any thread lurkers like myself - (pg 415)

"Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows
cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier
starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature.An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions."

This being the case - why not just run 0w-30 all year round? In fact...with how mild the winters are here, that might be the route to take for myself personally

[Silverfox]

Originally Posted by ArrrBussiere

This being the case - why not just run 0w-30 all year round? In fact...with how mild the winters are here, that might be the route to take for myself personally

Welcome to the oil rabbit hole

[toast]

Originally Posted by B T

I'm getting a misfire in cylinder one, only cylinder one. I've tried changing the coil packs, checked for oil in the plug. anyone else have this issue?

How many miles? Did you replace the plug when you checked for oil?