Ceramic coating exhaust components

[Irace86.2.0]

Ok man. We can agree to disagree. I’ve made my point for anyone wanting to weigh the risks and benefits, which is why I presented the issue.

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Actually, porosity isn't a lack of penetration. It is a chemical reaction between contaminants that are offing gas, or it is a reaction between oxygen in the air and the metal when it is wet/molten.

Which is why I tig with 100% argon but look at the root of that fillet...

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

It welded just like mild steel or stainless steel. Maybe the coating shields it like the solar flux is supposed to do?

I've never used solar flux but people throw it on the inside of stainless pipes to stop sugaring, correct? Basically skipping having to waste a ton of argon purging the piece being welded. I tig mostly mild steel and aluminum but would like to dabble a bit in stainless

[solidsnake11]

Originally Posted by Wally86

I've never used solar flux but people throw it on the inside of stainless pipes to stop sugaring, correct? Basically skipping having to waste a ton of argon purging the piece being welded. I tig mostly mild steel and aluminum but would like to dabble a bit in stainless

You are correct it turns black and gets grainy on the back with a lot of heat. It grinds right off with a carbide burr.
The solar flux turns to a glass looking substance and is supposed to shield it but the pieces have to be fitted really well.

I really like welding stainless its a little easier than regular steel and leaves a nice shiny bead.

Titanium also flows great and leaves a fantastic bead.

Aluminum is way harder to weld than stainless and titanuim.

[toast]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

Aluminum is way harder to weld than stainless and titanuim.

Definitely. I went through an entire bottle of argon practicing aluminum. Eventually got pretty good. Then the welder sat for months on end and I had to run a quick bead on a piece of stainless. Couldn't get a puddle to form - WTF? I left the machine in AC mode, duh. Flip the switch and was so happy, sooo much easier to get a gorgeous bead.

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by toast

Definitely. I went through an entire bottle of argon practicing aluminum. Eventually got pretty good. Then the welder sat for months on end and I had to run a quick bead on a piece of stainless. Couldn't get a puddle to form - WTF? I left the machine in AC mode, duh. Flip the switch and was so happy, sooo much easier to get a gorgeous bead.

It definitely happens. You can totally weld aluminum in DCEN with Helium...

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Wally86

Which is why I tig with 100% argon but look at the root of that fillet...

Maybe you missed it, but we are talking about not removing the Jet Hot coating before welding a crack in a coated pipe. I was saying the standard is to remove the coating at the crack then back purge before fixing the weld in order to avoid porosity on the inside of the weld, which is hard to do on headers that are coated on the inside if the welder can't reach the crack with a Dremel or something. I don't think anyone was suggesting not using shielding gas.

[Wally86]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Maybe you missed it, but we are talking about not removing the Jet Hot coating before welding a crack in a coated pipe. I was saying the standard is to remove the coating at the crack then back purge before fixing the weld in order to avoid porosity on the inside of the weld, which is hard to do on headers that are coated on the inside if the welder can't reach the crack with a Dremel or something. I don't think anyone was suggesting not using shielding gas.

I saw that LOL.

I came curious why the headers don't have to get sent back to be recoated or why the jet hot guys even suggested it.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I don't really care about everything your saying. I just know the coated header I welded welded fine.

So maybe I'm not qualified to say it welded fine.

I know I said I was done arguing the point, but then I remember something that I couldn't believe I forgot. This post, which makes me ask myself, how could you say welding over a coating welded fine when here are two examples of what you welded below? Neither are particularly amazing, but I'm not here to critique weld skill, but my point is you can't honestly say that the first picture shows welds that are just as good as the second picture, that the welds in the first picture are "fine". Come on man; be intellectually honest.

Oil pan almost done. Should have stripped the paint before welding but I got in a hurry. Just need to leak test and weld in a oil return.

----------------------------------

For anyone who wants another reference video that discusses technique, this one is good, and he points out in the end, that paramount to a good weld, regardless of technique or variability in amps, speed, distance, etc, is to prepare the surface to remove dirt, oil, oxidation, rust and to back purge when necessary:

[solidsnake11]

You know you really should build your on header and when you get it all fitted up and have all your welds perfect and its warped all to hell because you spent time trying to make it look pretty instead of trying to keep it from warping it will make since.

Like i said the coated header welded way better than the oil pan. Factory oil pans have paint that rolls up and it is hard to weld.
I already told you I wanted to get done. If you will notice on the oil pan the edges are rounded. I could have cut it straight and made some pretty welds but if you would have read some info about oil. it splashes around more on square edges. Best part about the oil pan is it dont mark its territory everytime I stop. I guess you care more about pretty welds than you do about oil leaks
You know I see you comment on alot of things but I dont see alot you have done.

Here lets compare list of stuff we have built for the platform not bought.

Built turbo kit with BRZ Gt4202r turbo with factory windsheild washer tank.
Tundra throttle body swap.
Divorced oil pump to run oil cooler.
Nissan 15mm oil pump.
Main direct feed from filter.
10mm oil galley plate
Grooved crank mains
Elongated main bearings.
Is350 axle swap.
Retrofit 17 abs to 13s.
17 Camaro ss brake swap to brz.
Cd009 to fa20 fa factory shifters 350z manual carbon shaft
Cd009 to k24. Fa factory shifter 350z auto carbon shaft
brz crank sensor and camshaft sensor to k24 engine
K24 ran from factoru ecu.
Brz to k24 wiring harness
K24 turbo kit.
Ebay gt4202 bored and installed ball bearings
Tuned the brz ecu to run the k24.

Anxiously awaiting your list.
I will get you started.

Fixed a crack in a aftermarket header.

I have tried to be nice but you seem to have some kind of issue with non elites. Heck you even paid for your tune.
I have been fabricating parts a long time and eventually I get tired of trying to make it look like a show piece and just want to drive it. This is hobby to me not my job.

I had an 86 toyota truck I built just for guys like you. Looked like crap had pvc piping for boost tubes and ran 11.35 @125 mph in the quarter with a junkyard 7mgte and 5 speed.

[Irace86.2.0]

You sound defensive bro. Relax. You should sand painted finishes off of metal before welding to not get porous, brittle welds. Done. Thanks for the pics, which helped to illustrate that point in case anyone wants to weld through paint or coatings.

You know, if someone wants to buy $500 eBay turbo kits or use JB Weld on a cracked cylinder liner then that's cool too. Free country, right? And if it gets them into the 11's then of course their advice must always be sound, right?

--------------

On a more interesting note. I stumbled across this guy's channel. Found him and his content amusing and entertaining, as well as, educational. Shout out below:

[solidsnake11]

This thread should be retitled to (solisnake11) hands on versus (irace86) seen it on youtube.

Relax to you also but you should actually get some hands on instead of giving advice on what you saw on YouTube, or read in a book.

Sorry my knowledge threatens you some how.


If anybody would have ask me about welding a coated header before I actually did it, I would have answered the same as you.

[Irace86.2.0]

Call Jet Hot then and ask them what you should do or any coating provider. You don’t have to be a chef to know when someone messed up in the kitchen

[solidsnake11]

You know I post on here to help people that want to work on their car and that might not have the financial means to buy everything.
I have about $3500 in my k-swap compared to the $25,000 that most say it cost.
My point is to show others that you don't have to have piles of money to modify cars.

The proper way to fix a cracked header would be throw it away and buy a new one.

Now stop being a wuss and put a turbo on your car.


And sometimes you get tired of fabing.