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07-24-2018, 06:16 AM | #1 |
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Just camber plates and LCAs?
I am on a completely stock suspension running 225 R-S4’s. I’d like to get some camber for track days, which is the only use the car sees.
Is it reasonable to start out with front camber plates (HVT non-rising) and rear LCAs (TBD) to try for about -2 deg all around using the stock dampers and springs? I’m saving up for some MCS 2WNR’s, but that won’t be until this winter. Thanks! |
07-24-2018, 06:18 AM | #2 | |
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Quote:
Camber bolts should get you close to -2 up front... and they’re cheap! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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07-24-2018, 09:09 AM | #3 |
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Yeah, I'd go camber bolts up front and wouldn't bother with LCAs. Get RCE Yellows instead. Less $$$, lower c.g., more track-appropriate spring rates, and probably get you your -2° camber all around or thereabouts.
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07-24-2018, 11:15 AM | #4 |
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SPC camber bolts in the lower holes, stock lower bolts in the upper holes. Should get you to -2 easily. You don't want equal camber front/rear due to the suspension design (rear gains camber through compression, front does not). I'd stick with -2 front and -1 to -1.5 rear.
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07-24-2018, 11:45 AM | #5 |
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-3F/-2R is a good starting point and be prepared to add more, yes camber plates and lcas are perfect, if you want more than -4 you'll need bolts or slotted struts.
Wparsons is right you probably don't want equal camber and it's a track only car so go ahead and get aggressive, think about the compatibility of your camber plates and eventual suspension, not all combinations work well. |
07-24-2018, 11:55 AM | #6 |
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Depending on the wheel offset, he probably can't get much more than -2*F without rubbing tire on spring perch or going to camber plates.
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07-24-2018, 12:06 PM | #7 |
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Equal camber front/rear is fine. WAY better than the stock 0 front -1.25 rear!
Reducing rear camber to something way less than ideal just to make it less than front camber isn't the right approach IMO... Ideally, camber plates and -3 or more camber up front. But given that this is an interim setup anyway... Camber bolts, lowering springs, stock rear LCAs = lotsa fun for minimal $$$ |
07-24-2018, 05:00 PM | #8 | |
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Im lowered trd springs.
-0.4 front -2.2 rear Stock lca and no camber bolts Quote:
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07-24-2018, 05:04 PM | #9 |
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I have the cam bolt, camber plates and rear lower control arms. Cam bolt alone got me -1.5 which is nowhere near enough on track
I still get edge wear, my shop recommends at least stiffer springs they said stock is too soft its stillngoing to roll over the tire edge even if they add more camber. I run 200tw tires, as I understand it would be worse with track tires. I got a set of bilstein b8 and rce tarmac springs but never got around to installing them as the rears are cross threaded and i never ended up trying to fix or replace them. So for nowni just deal with the edge wear.
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07-24-2018, 10:35 PM | #10 |
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That's what i did~ not lowered, Whteline camber bolts & rear LCA. I went -1.5 all around, no regrets. However for track day I'm sure you'll want more neg up front as memebers have stated.
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07-25-2018, 04:40 AM | #11 |
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Thanks all - very helpful!
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07-25-2018, 11:54 AM | #12 |
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Whats the recommended camber for daily?
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07-25-2018, 01:52 PM | #13 | |
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Stock specs... Quote:
Depends on what you're after. Running too much rear camber compared to front will make it understeer more and can (and likely will be) slower than taking a bit of rear camber out to have it rotate better.
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07-25-2018, 02:18 PM | #14 |
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OEM camber bolt would be fine on a DD. Depends on your driving style though? Do you get even tire wear at stock specs (no camber)? If so adding camber will shorten the life of your tire in the form of inside edge wear.
It might be worth it for you, but that is an individual decision and why stock is 0 camber.
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