Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[rns294]

Originally Posted by Anderzz

Is a toothbrush and reconditioner the best fix here or do you have a better solution?

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Had the same problem. Bought belt conditioner from autozone and went away after a day or so. Bought an extra belt also, just in case.

[Anderzz]

Originally Posted by rns294

Had the same problem. Bought belt conditioner from autozone and went away after a day or so. Bought an extra belt also, just in case.

Yeh, I already have a spare belt that I ride around with as a precaution.

Bought some belt reconditioner, gave it a go yesterday and other than some preliminary belt squeel that went away after the second start-up, the sound is gone.

[teetsdownlow]

I have a question I feel like is going to be difficult to explain and even harder to answer.

Just bought an auto 15 frs with 68k miles through auction. 1 owner and in pretty good condition. I would have to imagine around 25-30K on the supercharger

Problem I had when I was driving home was that in 2nd gear usually the car once it reaches 2.8k-3k rpm it acts like a fuel cut or compressor surge. I noticed that my belt was missing a complete rib all the way around. My new belt should be here tomorrow so I'll know if that was it. Any other ideas on what it could be? I'll replace the belt tomorrow and figure out how to upload a youtube video if it keeps up tomorrow

Thanks in advance

[Anderzz]

Originally Posted by teetsdownlow

I have a question I feel like is going to be difficult to explain and even harder to answer.

Just bought an auto 15 frs with 68k miles through auction. 1 owner and in pretty good condition. I would have to imagine around 25-30K on the supercharger

Problem I had when I was driving home was that in 2nd gear usually the car once it reaches 2.8k-3k rpm it acts like a fuel cut or compressor surge. I noticed that my belt was missing a complete rib all the way around. My new belt should be here tomorrow so I'll know if that was it. Any other ideas on what it could be? I'll replace the belt tomorrow and figure out how to upload a youtube video if it keeps up tomorrow

Thanks in advance

Bad tune is the only other thing that comes to mind

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[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by teetsdownlow

I have a question I feel like is going to be difficult to explain and even harder to answer.

Just bought an auto 15 frs with 68k miles through auction. 1 owner and in pretty good condition. I would have to imagine around 25-30K on the supercharger

Problem I had when I was driving home was that in 2nd gear usually the car once it reaches 2.8k-3k rpm it acts like a fuel cut or compressor surge. I noticed that my belt was missing a complete rib all the way around. My new belt should be here tomorrow so I'll know if that was it. Any other ideas on what it could be? I'll replace the belt tomorrow and figure out how to upload a youtube video if it keeps up tomorrow

Thanks in advance

Need a datalog.

[teetsdownlow]

I don't have a cable to do a log unfortunately. The PO didn't include the cable when he traded it in to the dealer. I'm taking it to the racers line up in Concord CA if it's tune related. Hopefully they can tell me if it's a JRSC carb tune or some off the shelf tune that went bad. I previously wanted flex fuel but I'd rather get this sorted out before I have him install the kit. I'll see if he can save some logs so I can post them. I ran out of time yesterday to take it for a drive so I'll try today. Hopefully something simple like a belt slip from running 1 less rib on the belt

I did forget to mention. If I'm in D mode, with or without sport or traction mode engaged it does it more frequently. Usually in 2nd gear. Anything less than 50-60% tps (I'm assuming) it seems to do it. It'll pull like normal but once it hits 3k in 2nd gear it just bounces off 3k until I take my foot off the pedal for a second then give it gas and it pulls like normal through the entire power band.

I'm not sure what information ECUTEK shows, trans values, etc but once I figure out what's causing this I'll be sure to report back with logs

Thanks again

[CSG Mike]

Sounds like a misfire. Don't drive it until it is diagnosed to be safe.

[milanojess]

So I wanted to share my experience of check engine light about 6 months after JRSC+CARB+oilcooler install. As subject line says, codes retrieved were P0171 U0073 C1201. The main concern was running lean.

This condition apparently triggered some kind of protection mode which disabled traction controls so the traction control light was on as well.

The end result was a faulty BPV. It's been about a month since replaced bpv, and the car has been running check engine light free!.

JR support and I spent some cycles and went thru number of checks to verify installation correctness prior to replacing bpv.

I referenced the part number and it is indeed a part commonly used on factory SAAB and Audi turbo engines, this confirmed prior posts from JR that the bpv selected is an OEM quality part.

I am glad to report that I had a positive experience with JR providing support to their SC system. I received bpv promptly with fast shipping and shipped back old part with included shipping label. The part was later confirmed to be at fault.

If you see check engine and traction control lights on, check/replace bpv!

The FRS went from somewhat lackluster to now a proper sporty coupe con gusto! All thanks to JRSC

Happy boosting!

[amcp1]

Numerous people in the thread have had issues with the supplied BPV. Some continue to use the JR valve and some upgrade.
Its the only issue I've had with the JR c30 kit.

[milanojess]

Originally Posted by amcp1

Numerous people in the thread have had issues with the supplied BPV. Some continue to use the JR valve and some upgrade.
Its the only issue I've had with the JR c30 kit.

I would like to know how one confirms a faulty bpv. The one I removed had no visible fault. The valve seemed to open and close correctly when pushed with finger..

Thanks

[amcp1]

You cant tell by looks or feel. You would need to see if it holds a vacuum off the small port.

[idkwhatimdoing]

To anyone who has replaced their compressor unit with a new one after the previous one had failed:
I’m wondering what measures any of you guys took to ensure the oil system was contaminant-free, specifically in regards to the oil cooler... I blew compressed air thru the lines and out the other end until there was no oil left, then flushed with brake cleaner (as recommended by JR) but my concern is any micro-debris the previous unit may have left in the cooler... did you guys have to worry about this? Did you replace the oil cooler?
Thanks in advance!


________

~refer to username~

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by amcp1

You cant tell by looks or feel. You would need to see if it holds a vacuum off the small port.

To check if it holds vacuum, do the followings in sequence

- push the valve open from the port on the circular face
- then, block the tiny vacuum port with your finger
- release the valve, the valve should stay open
- release the vacuum port suddenly

You should hear a pop sound of closing valve. If valve closes before you open the vacuum port, valve is leaking vacuum. Try a couple times to confirm.

Originally Posted by idkwhatimdoing

To anyone who has replaced their compressor unit with a new one after the previous one had failed:
I’m wondering what measures any of you guys took to ensure the oil system was contaminant-free, specifically in regards to the oil cooler... I blew compressed air thru the lines and out the other end until there was no oil left, then flushed with brake cleaner (as recommended by JR) but my concern is any micro-debris the previous unit may have left in the cooler... did you guys have to worry about this? Did you replace the oil cooler?
Thanks in advance!

You have a oil filter. Just make sure the line after oil filter directly going to supercharger is clean. The filter will take care of the part before itself. No need to change the oil cooler imho.

[milanojess]

Originally Posted by mrg666

To check if it holds vacuum, do the followings in sequence

- push the valve open from the port on the circular face
- then, block the tiny vacuum port with your finger
- release the valve, the valve should stay open
- release the vacuum port suddenly

You should hear a pop sound of closing valve. If valve closes before you open the vacuum port, valve is leaking vacuum. Try a couple times to confirm.

.

Thanks mrg666 I’ll give that a try next time!