In the process of Boosting my BRZ, did I miss anything?

[Leviticus Ezra]

Originally Posted by anticubus

I like the theory the Works kit is trying, but there are big drawbacks in the hot side piping:
1. Distance exhaust has to travel between the exhaust port and the turbo. The further the exhaust pulses have to travel the more energy is lost before the turbo.
2. Complex path and piping shape from exhaust port to turbo. The OEM header is a huge restriction, then the pulses need to take two sharp turns, go through the turbo, then go through two more sharp turns. Lots of energy lost.
3. If you use the OEM header the turbo is at risk of getting wrecked by some loose catalyst blowing by. Even if that doesn't happen the catalyst is constantly being eroded (https://www.sae.org/publications/tec.../2001-01-1995/) which will mechanically erode the exhaust turbine as if it were being media blasted.

It's not going to be immediate failure but I'll bet most long running Works kits with primary cats in place have evidence of abnormal wear on the hot side. I really think you may want to consider a super charger setup if you can't go with a more efficient turbo kit.

I see exactly what you're saying, at the moment I actually have a set of UEL Tomei headers underneath. Would that change any of these scenarios? Or would I still see exhaust pulses and energy loss?

[Leviticus Ezra]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Some of your component choices are low price leader options. Choose higher quality components throughout.

I figured a few of them were, as I was trying to save a few dollars here and there. But this far in, what's a few extra more bucks

[Leviticus Ezra]

Originally Posted by Chuckls

I swapped to that clutch and 5th gear slips even after proper break in.

Have you then found a replacement clutch? Or dealing with the same one? How often does it slip, and is it bad?

[Chuckls]

Originally Posted by Leviticus Ezra

Have you then found a replacement clutch? Or dealing with the same one? How often does it slip, and is it bad?

I hardly use 5th gear (weekend warrior and cone chaser), so it hasn't proved to be a severe hinderance. Only time I notice it is those one off random highway pulls. I did manage to slip in third once on an autocross course, so lets hope that isn't a common thing. I know I'm not exceeding the 315 ft/lbs that it holds. Southbend is just being a pain in the ass when it comes to warrantying it because they believe I either wasn't hard enough on break in, or I was too hard and burned the clutch up.

I'd love to replace it, but $1000 for parts+labor just isn't in the cards right now.

[anticubus]

Originally Posted by Leviticus Ezra

I see exactly what you're saying, at the moment I actually have a set of UEL Tomei headers underneath. Would that change any of these scenarios? Or would I still see exhaust pulses and energy loss?

You'll still see the reduced throttle response. There's an argument to be made that the water cooling intake length counteracts that, but there's no replacing your exhaust's time to expand as it travels towards lower pressure when you make that first request for more torque. The cat issue is mitigated if you're catless, and the header will probably flow better.

OTOH why not sell the header to recoup some additional costs from bumping up to a higher quality kit?

[whataboutbob]

I'd swap these:
•Mishimoto Radiator
•Mishimoto Oil Cooler

With this:
https://www.counterspacegarage.com/j...gt86-scion-frs

[Suzuyans]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

talked a lot about if you search

stock pcv doesn't hold boost and it leaks boost in the crankcase
So you ll lose boost, pressurize crankcase, car will feel slugghish and probably helping burning oil more than it should

Sorry for the extremely late reply.

But, do you really need the PCV valve if you have a Check Valve already on a catch can?

This is the one thing I'm still not sure about to this day.

[tomm.brz]

you shouldn't need it, but you d better have it anyway
cheap and effective

[MR2Dave]

Originally Posted by Leviticus Ezra

The car has the factory Brembos, will those not handle the added power? Right now my only hurdle with tires is selecting the rims that I think suit the car, I've come down to a few rims, but I figure for at least the time being I can run it on stocks very carefully until I find the right rims. So the cars relatively new, still has 6500 miles. Still good to swap the plugs out for something of quality? Or not worth the time?
Haven't seen any leaks out of the car yet, but I plan to expect it thuroughly during not only the install process, but the tuning and commuting as well. I'll be under the car nonstop until I'm confident it has no leaks. I've taken initiative to get Subarus 5w-30 oil alongside their Super Coolant for the install process, should I get some Motul gear fluid still just in case? And I haven't quite considered clutch forks. Are their significant pros to having a aftermarket fork? If so, which one?

I think Works recommends a different spark plug with the turbo. I assume colder, but just give 'em a call and ask, they might even be included in the kit. If you talk to Jeff, tell him Dave wants his car back ;-)

For a daily driver clutch they recommended an Exedy stage 1, but that was backordered so I ended up with a Competition stage 2. They also recommended the Verus clutch fork and pivot. The stock fork is prone to failure, especially with stiffer aftermarket pressure plates. The parts are around $200 and very little extra labor to install during a clutch job. Worth it for reliability in my book.

As for Motul; It's a noticeable improvement. I doubt you need to change the gear oil early because of the turbo, but I highly recommend you give Motul a try when you change it.

[Jaden]

Originally Posted by Leviticus Ezra

My intentions for the build are to be reliable. Reliable enough to steer clear of any internal work for the time being, until I'm dissatisfied with the performance. I plan on only building about 8 pounds on a good tune, and possibly 10 pounds on an e85 map. Does that still sound like something that'll require engine work?

Nor will it likely need a clutch at those power levels.

People love to say how weak these engines are, yet there have been as many or more rod failures on stock power levels as on boost which SHOULD lead a logical mind to the probability that it was a quality control issue rather than a generally weak rod issue. Especially considering that many have gotten over 400 on stock blocks without issues.

The problem with a quality control issue though is that it's a crap shoot when adding power. Although if you were unlucky enough to get the shitty rods, it's just as likely that running it stock will have the same end result, so whatever.

I would love to see how much power can be gotten with just a rod upgrade and some ring gap. I would bet over 500 reliably.

I have my first engine that, (on stock power levels), spun a rod bearing, which I eventually plan on doing the above to to find out what it will handle.

Jaden

[B T]

You could probably save some money on the radiator with a CSF unit. I've got one on my car and it keeps great temperatures in traffic and on the track. Never even come close to overheating whereas my car overheated here in the south from the factory. They actually produce the Jackson Racing oil cooling radiator as well.

https://csfrace.com/product/subaru-racing-radiators/

[Leviticus Ezra]

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

I'd swap these:
•Mishimoto Radiator
•Mishimoto Oil Cooler

With this:
https://www.counterspacegarage.com/j...gt86-scion-frs

That actually seems very compelling and much less hose to run with a all in one unit rather than each unit separate. I'll be doing my research on these extensively. Thank you

[Leviticus Ezra]

Originally Posted by Suzuyans

Sorry for the extremely late reply.

But, do you really need the PCV valve if you have a Check Valve already on a catch can?

This is the one thing I'm still not sure about to this day.

With the way the Radium kit actually ended up being fitted, it had I believe 3/8 hose running into the PCV valve fitted to the manifold which is a 1/2 fitting, so the PCV valve is still used because it converts from a the 1/2 to a 3/8 on the other end if that makes sense? The instructions for the dual catch cans were extremely unclear. I ended up needing to run to the auto parts store for more hose

[Leviticus Ezra]

Originally Posted by MR2Dave

I think Works recommends a different spark plug with the turbo. I assume colder, but just give 'em a call and ask, they might even be included in the kit. If you talk to Jeff, tell him Dave wants his car back ;-)

For a daily driver clutch they recommended an Exedy stage 1, but that was backordered so I ended up with a Competition stage 2. They also recommended the Verus clutch fork and pivot. The stock fork is prone to failure, especially with stiffer aftermarket pressure plates. The parts are around $200 and very little extra labor to install during a clutch job. Worth it for reliability in my book.

As for Motul; It's a noticeable improvement. I doubt you need to change the gear oil early because of the turbo, but I highly recommend you give Motul a try when you change it.

Jeff has actually been the one handling most of my order for the turbo kit. It's been a bumpy process but we are getting there. I suppose they don't get many people requesting different turbo options, so things have been needed to be adjusted along the way. But I expect a call very soon in the next few days informing me that my kit has been revised and has been sent out. I'll be sure to let Jeff know Dave's looking to get his car back As for the clutch, Exedy you say is what they suggest? I may have to dig a little deeper into them, I've come across them. Just didn't know if it was worth the click or not. Also the clutch fork and pivot most certainly doesn't sound like an awful idea considering what you said, it's something I can easily do while installing the clutch. Now for the spark plugs, I'll definitely have to ask when I get that call here soon